28 posts tagged "Sonia Rykiel"
It’s been a good few years for Sonia Rykiel. At its Spring ’09 show in Paris, the family-owned, family-run label celebrated its 40th year in business with an exuberant homage: a surprise show-within-the-show featuring Rykiel-inspired looks designed by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Martin Margiela, Giorgio Armani, and many others. Not long thereafter, Rizzoli published a history of the house, and not long after that, H&M announced that they would be collaborating with the brand on two collections. The first, a range of lingerie, debuted at the end of 2009; the second, a collection of accessories and signature Rykiel knits for women and girls, launches worldwide on February 20. Sonia Rykiel artistic director Nathalie Rykiel (pictured) was in town last night to preview the looks and took a few minutes to speak with Style.com about expensive clothes, free women, and why she can’t stop thinking about tomorrow.
How did the H&M collaboration come about?
Well, they called to ask if we were interested, and the answer was obvious.
Because of the Rykiel philosophy. I love that we are part of this wonderful fashion universe, which is full of beautiful things that are very expensive. It’s fantastic to make women dream. But I had frustrations. You know, my mother, she was the first couturier to make ready-to-wear clothes that were affordable. Her original customers, who were very well-off, bourgeois, they didn’t like that at first—that a secretary could also be wearing Rykiel. But my mother decided, Rykiel is for everyone. That attitude is part of the brand. And so for that reason, working with H&M, it was obvious.
Sonia Rykiel celebrated its 40th anniversary last year. The brand has remained remarkably consistent over the years—you can see that in the book Sonia Rykiel—but do you think the woman who buys Sonia Rykiel has changed?
Yes and no. Sonia Rykiel has always been designed for the woman who is free. This is still true. What has changed, of course, is the context. The woman who buys Rykiel now is incredibly well educated about fashion, thanks to the media, and she is spoiled, in a good way, by the offer of products that exists today. And so, whereas in the beginning of Rykiel, you would see women who dressed in Rykiel head-to-toe—coat, hat, even shoes—now Rykiel is part of a wardrobe. The Rykiel woman loves to shop and she loves to mix. Even I do it. I’ll wear Rykiel with Prada, for instance. It’s the modern way. But there is still this attraction to the brand, a connection to what makes it distinct.
Marc Jacobs, American in Paris, was decorated as a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in France, alongside Nathalie Rykiel, creative director of Sonia Rykiel. Jacobs delivered a grateful acceptance speech in French, and even traded in his usual skirt for a suit for the occasion. [WWD]
Couture’s only been going on for a few hours, but already its tiniest correspondent, blogger Tavi, is causing drama: A tweeting reporter from Grazia Daily complains that the 13-year-old’s enormous hat is obstructing the views of those not lucky enough to be front-row. [Racked]
Friday night saw the final episode of the Conan O’Brien-helmed Late Show, but the grassroots pro-Conan campaigns are bound to continue. Amid a flurry of “I’m With Coco” signs and sites plastered with images of the redhead, Modelinia weighs in its support for a fellow ginger Coco—Coco Rocha. Well, she does do some TV. [Modelinia]
Finally, a tantalizing little tidbit from the Paris men’s shows: Apparently Pharrell approached Alber Elbaz after the Lanvin presentation to offer his services to the brand. Consider Lanvin’s beats now spoken for. [WWD]
There are a couple of significant firsts involved in H&M’s Christmas collaboration with Sonia Rykiel. It’s the Swedish giant’s first designer alliance for underwear. It’s the first time that the collaborateuse will be selling H&M product in her own shops. And it’s the first time there’ll be a gigantic all-the-trimmings launch. Tomorrow night, the Grand Palais (scene of many a Chanel extravaganza) will be transformed by show producer Etienne Russo into a Parisienne fantasia, through which nearly 80 models will parade in the kind of underpinnings that would—as Raymond Chandler memorably observed about the power of female beauty—”make a bishop kick a hole in a stained-glass window.” The Chandler reference isn’t (just) me being silly. There’s a real femme-fatale glamour to the Rykiel lingerie. As Sonia’s daughter (and artistic director) Nathalie said in Paris today, “The Rykiel woman has a very specific image: It’s St. Germain-des-Prés, sexy, excessive, very sophisticated…impertinent.” H&M already has a solid lingerie business, especially round Christmas, and, creative advisor Margareta van den Bosch was quick to point out, the company is no stranger to racy underwear advertising. But the Sonia connection added a spicy little something extra. “When I think about something feminine and a little bit luxurious, it’s nice that there’s a French feeling,” said van den Bosch. With the product in 1,500 H&M stores around the world, the whole planet’s going to be feeling a little bit French this holiday season. “But it doesn’t just have to be something that a man buys for a woman,” van den Bosch sagely added. “It’s something you buy for yourself, or for a friend. Or for your mother.” Now, I’d like to meet the boy who’s bold enough to buy a bra set for his ma after he’s eyeballed a brunette Lara Stone in the H&M ad campaign.
Marc Jacobs and Lady Gaga will reunite this Monday at the ACE Awards, where Jacobs will present Miss Gaga with this year’s Stylemaker Award. Fingers crossed she’ll come in a Louis Vuitton Afro, which is totally this season’s bunny ears. [WWD]
Good news: Your $300 jeans are now $200. But don’t get too crazy in low-triple-digit territory. Anything below $148 is “no longer premium.” Well, heavens forbid. [NYT]
Nipple pasties for everyone! Scant images from Sonia Rykiel’s line for H&M have emerged, and we do mean scant. [Nitrolicious]