August 29 2014

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10 posts tagged "Sophia Kokosalaki"

Sophia Kokosalaki: “You Know I’m Not Going To Just Cut Some Holes With Scissors For A Distressed Look”


The Greek-English designer Sophia Kokosalaki took the reins at Diesel Black Gold for Fall 2010, when she presented her first collection for the label’s more grown-up offshoot. The fashion world took note—including Barneys, which picked up Diesel for the first time following the showing. caught up with Kokosalaki in Tokyo to talk craft, quality, and the persistence of one Renzo Rosso.

You’re new to Diesel Black Gold. Tell us a little bit about the direction you’re taking the label in.
For the first season, I tried to do something that is completely real to the brand. Because we know it’s a casual brand, a contemporary line that always has a sex appeal. It’s heavily based on denim and on leather. I tried to elevate the collection a little bit by using a little bit of work, some craft here and there. For example, if I want to do a sexy dress, my way to elevate it, so as not to look overtly sexual or vulgar or cheap or all this, is to add some craftsmanship to the dress. Immediately, the garment becomes more tasteful—even if it’s a tight-fitting dress at the end.

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Lanvin’s Costume Party


Alber Elbaz was responsible for reviving the very Parisian idea of costume jewelry (Merci, Coco!) back in 2006 with his chic, beribboned pieces. Every Lanvin show since has had a bijoux component in varying degrees, but yesterday, Elbaz amped it up like never before with a crescendoing glitz factor. There were wide enameled cuffs stacked over black leather gloves, slinky gold chains dangling Byzantine-inspired pendants, fat chain links studded with stones, and dramatically twisting Medusa-worthy snakes. (Even the shoes came with chains.) The glittery climax came in the form of elaborate necklaces topping elaborately beaded frocks. Check out our luscious detail shots to persuse it all. Jewelry on the runway isn’t news, but it’s worth noting that the trend isn’t going anywhere. This week, Giles Deacon’s new range of baubles makes its official debut at his Thursday show, and earlier today, Sophia Kokosalaki revealed her collaboration with Grecian jeweler Lalaounis.

Photo: Don Ashby and Olivier Claisse

Kokosalaki For Diesel, Jimmy Choo For H&M, And More…


Sophia Kokosalaki is moonlighting again. The Greek designer, who briefly helmed Vionnet, will take on Diesel’s high-end contemporary line, Black Gold, in addition, that is, to working on her namesake collection. Those should be some pretty fabulous jeans. [WWD]

Stilettos for everyone! High-low takes on new meaning with the announcement of H&M’s latest collaboration, with skyscraper-heel outfitter Jimmy Choo. Accessories for men and women, including some clothing options, hit stores on November 14. Happy holidays. [WWD]

Claire Danes and Narciso Rodriguez have been together longer than she and fiancé Hugh Dancy have, so it’s only fitting that Rodriguez is designing her wedding dress. “I get weepy,” she said of the design process. We’re sure she means that in a good way. [People]

Is Aggy quitting New York? Word is she’s heading back to London to focus on an acting career. “Word” is also very unsubstantiated, so don’t freak out just yet. [Mirror]

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Everything Ancient Is New Again For Spring


Designers embraced their inner Cleopatras and Tutankhamens this season, offering fresh takes on Egyptian costume (click for slideshow). At Anna Sui, hieroglyphs provided the basis for elaborate prints, while Sophia Kokosalaki worked in a pharaoh-worthy palette of lapis lazuli and gold. Andrew Gn amped up tunic dresses with embroidered metal collars, and Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock of Vena Cava accessorized with slinky silver breastplates. “Fashion is about escape. It makes sense to fixate on a historical era that no one can get to,” says Mayock. “I think everyone just wants to dream right now.” We’re all for that, but it’s probably best to leave Orlando Pita’s “Nefertiti-chic” hairdos at Christian Dior to the ancients.

See a gallery of Egypt-inspired looks >




Photo: Marcio Madeira


trick or treat


We’ve been back from Paris for just over a week, so we’re still in process mode—trying to parse the meaning of Spring’s sheer dresses, and the reasons why designers as different as Calvin Klein‘s Francisco Costa and Donatella Versace added all manner of geometric flaps and appendages to their clothes. With Halloween on the horizon, we couldn’t help but notice that many of Spring’s more eccentric creations seem tailor-made for a costume party—a very, very chic costume party. Sophia Kokosalaki‘s Egypt collection provided ample material for any gal with an Elizabeth Taylor fixation; the only thing missing from her modern-day Cleopatras was the electric-blue eyeshadow. Is Disney more your speed? This Dolce & Gabbana dress comes complete with Minnie Mouse ears. Speaking of fauna, Moschino Cheap & Chic had a beautiful butterfly-wing gown. Should you prefer a more postmodern getup, may we suggest something from Gareth Pugh‘s first-ever Paris show? As Tim Blanks put it in our review, the vibe was very “Joan Crawford meets Predator.” Along similar lines, John Galliano showed a look best described as one part Napoleon, another part Josephine. For more on the shows, click here. But may we remind you, getting your hands on any one of these looks by October 31 will take the skills of a pro. If you don’t already have your own stylist on speed dial, you’re probably better off at Ricky’s.

Photo: Marcio Madeira