2 posts tagged "Soulland"
When Helena Christensen says go, you go—even, as it turns out, if it happens to be pouring rain. That’s how it went at the so-called “World’s Greatest Catwalk” that closed out Copenhagen fashion week on Saturday. Organizers laid down literally a mile of pink carpet in the city center, and Helena Christensen issued the sendoff to the more than 200 catwalkers, from infants (cradled in mom’s arms) to Denmark’s leading elderly model, all of whom hoofed it through town in looks put together by local merchants.
Rain, as it turned out, was one of the week’s overriding themes. A storm raged during Stine Goya’s show, where models glided through rooms decorated with Victorian-style installations of antique furniture and massive floral arrangements. At Wood Wood (above), the designers actually hosed down their models before sending them into the spotlight at the Den Frie contemporary art museum; with army jackets, shirtdresses, and khakis clinging to their bodies underneath backpacks, they looked like kids caught in a thunderstorm on the way home from school. On the other hand, mother nature luckily held the rain from Henrik Vibskov’s outdoor show at a park known locally as a hook-up spot (despite the swim goggles Vibskov accessorized his looks with, and the two enormous wood boats that burly men pushed into the center of the catwalk for the finale).
But rain or no rain, Copenhagen is about fun more than overly serious, capital-F fashion. Although one of the country’s most established names in womenswear, Margit Bradt (below), showed a strong collection playing on a safari theme (one picked up by several other designers as well), Soulland designer Silas Adler freely admitted that much of the best Danish style is “too basic to put on a catwalk” in Milan or Paris. (Though Adler, whose label grew out of a modest T-shirt project he started with skater friends, did throw some suits into the mix for the first time, below.) The real action in Denmark is at street-level, without the pomp and circumstance that can attend other European fashion weeks. Take Soulland’s after-party, which went down, sans formal invites, at a dive bar called Andy’s—one that the owner had to be roused from a stupor to open that night. Continue Reading “The Weather (And Fashion) Report From Copenhagen” »
Tonight at around 11 p.m.—so they say, but my money’s on midnight or later—a handful of Denmark’s best designers present a runway show of a few looks from their Fall collections for the revelers celebrating VMan‘s Scandinavian issue at Good Units. VMan‘s Stephen Gan sees big things in Scandinavia’s fashion future, I’m told, and has called in a few friends to make his case. But if late-night conditions aren’t favorable for a clear-eyed assessment (or for any editor with a husband, kid, or early bedtime), the group all gathered yesterday for a preview event and to meet the press.
Some names are familiar to U.S. buyers: Cheap Monday; Camilla Stærk, who shows at New York fashion week; and Henrik Vibskov, who shows men’s in Paris and a co-ed, and-the-kitchen-sink extravaganza in Copenhagen (last season’s included donkeys). But a few lesser-known Danish brands deserve their due. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the lower-priced daywear line originally founded by Malene Birger, was covetable, especially at its reasonable prices. The men’s brand Soulland, whose hybrid cap/hat topper should replace the porkpie on every scruffy dude east of Avenue A, had great high-low pieces—I couldn’t take my hands off a varsity jacket with mink sleeves, even if it’s probably a little precious to wear anywhere near a game. And the flame-haired Stine Goya, an alum of Central Saint Martins, showed separates with a strong tailored streak. Her twining, cabled Snake sweater (pictured) is a best seller, she told me, and should look just as good with her wool or linen-silk wide-leg trousers as with your oldest weather-beaten jeans.