49 posts tagged "Spring ’14"
The basketball courts at Houston and Sixth Avenue made a big impression on Kevin Carrigan as a young Englishman in New York. He re-created them at the Calvin Klein presentation this morning, from the wire fencing of the set all the way up to his Spring clothes, which embrace and celebrate the all-American athleticism of the company’s heritage. “Last season was about sensual, soft minimalism,” he explained. “This one is more about fast-forward minimalism.” A sheer cobalt-blue tank dress, for starters, was layered over boy briefs and a bandeau bra, and perforated PVC was whipped up into a zip-front sleeveless dress, a sweatshirt, and kicky to-the-knee skirts. Even the suiting took on a sporty edge, with a sleeveless tailored jacket layered over a mesh tee and trousers. You wouldn’t mistake any of it for exercise gear, but the women’s collection had a nice energy, emphasized by the graphic black-and-white color palette and the hits of sky blue.
Those hits kept hitting in the men’s collections. From the underwear, which came in two-tone jewel colors and cut in a new Brazilian square cut, to sky-blue cotton suiting, Carrigan was delivering what he called “high-octane color.” It was balanced by the usual Calvin palette of slate and ice grays. The sport-inspired mesh that suffused the women’s collection was here, too, in micro-mesh textures layered on one another: A cotton mesh dress shirt with a silk mesh tie. “Wearing the mini-mesh textures together is a new direction, I feel,” he said. “I’m taking the sport and introducing the formality—taking the formal out of formal.” It gave even the more traditional silhouettes (a straight pant rather than a tapered one, a slight break rather than the ubiquitous crop) a slight charge. With the menswear more than the womenswear, a resurgent sense of the old mixed with the new. The inspirations were, on one hand, sportswear from the thirties, and on the other, from modern-day basketball. Leather lace-ups with athletic cotton ankle socks underscored the point.
The eerie Turkish film-star masks that Umit Benan paired with his rich, intelligent Spring ’14 menswear collection helped make his show one of season’s most memorable. And while the Milan catwalks now seem a distant memory, we never pass up an opportunity to reflect. Here, Benan gives us a behind-the-scenes look at his Spring outing. “It reminds me of the amazing emotions I had while working on the collection,” said the designer of the short. “The video makes me live the same moment over and over.” Watch the film’s debut above, exclusively on Style.com.
In the age of Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and RSS readers, our news feeds are more flooded than ever, and the latest collections gave us even more to process. On the runways, models were transformed into walking billboards with clothes that were quite literally statement-making. Whether the message was political (see: Kenzo’s “No fish, no nothing” manifesto against overfishing) or just plain weird (Jeremy Scott’s “Earth Sucks” transmission), Spring is all about wearing your status update on your sleeve. In the streets, novelty T-shirts splashed with tongue-in-cheek phrases like “Sorry for Partying” or “Bite Me” also commanded attention.
Nili Lotan‘s Spring ’14 presentation drew a unique crowd. Performers, fashion editors, and dance enthusiasts gathered inside the designer’s Tribeca showroom last night for a fashion-meets-dance mash-up. Lotan worked with choreographers Lee Sher and Saar Harari of the LeeSaar dance company to stage a performance that would capture the essence of her Spring looks. Dancers performed right in the middle of Lotan’s showroom, wearing fluid, body-skimming pieces from the new collection. “I feel that the combination of two different arts—dance and fashion—make it stronger than just a regular runway,” Lotan told Style.com. “It kind of grew into this concept of introducing the language of my design, my aesthetics, and my entire world,” she added. “I had to pick pieces that really conveyed the essence of what I do.”
When asked about the concept behind the choreography, Sher offered: “We were just inspired by Nili and who she is. When we met with her, we realized there were a lot of similarities in our approaches to art, and we started this process of mixing her collection and the dance.” The resulting performance was sensual and raw, yet undeniably feminine. And it’s no coincidence that the same could be said about Lotan’s designs. “There are certain words that I repeat when I describe my work—minimal, pure, explosive, sexy,” said Lotan. “And all of this is coming through in the dance in a very strong way.”
Goossens does a brisk business with its perennials—namely sautoirs, brooches, and cuffs much in the spirit of Gabrielle Chanel. That stands to reason, because Mme. Chanel worked with the jewelry brand’s founder, Robert Goossens, for years. (It’s worth pointing out, though, that while Chanel now owns the brand, Goossens does not make Chanel’s costume jewelry.)
For Spring, Goossens continues to expand on its heritage with what its president Patrick Goossens calls “a relaxed take on Indian jewelry.” The house offered bohemian maharini rings, hoop earrings, and stackable bangles. There’s also the geometric Baguette story, with Y necklaces made of tinted rock crystals and poured glass in soft-focus hues of peach, violet, gray, and blue. Some pieces, such as an asymmetrical necklace, can do double duty as a wraparound bracelet. And then there is the statement-making Alchemie collection. “My father worked a lot with Celtic symbols and nature-related esoterica, always with beneficial meanings,” explains Goossens. This brand history was reborn in a handful of runes in rock crystal and gilded bronze, and talismans that radiated an aura of mystery—not to mention androgynous allure.