14 posts tagged "Spring 2010 RTW"
Risto Bimbiloski didn’t pull any punches at his first New York fashion week show. Leotards, catsuits, and caftans in vivid lightning-bolt prints girded the collection, but where, some attendees wondered, were all the knits? Bimbiloski doubles as the head knitwear designer at Louis Vuitton menswear, after all, so it seemed fair to ask him about the scarcity of knits on his runway. “There are more in the showroom,” he acknowledged. One of the unexpected ways that Bimbiloski did integrate knits was through jewelry. Chain he developed in two finishes was twisted, knotted, and woven together; it was sometimes incorporated into the garments as embellishment, and sometimes made into jewelry all its own. (Yes, the jewelry will be for sale, too.) “I like the idea of knitting the metal,” explained Bimbiloski. “And I’ve been wanting to do jewelry for a while. I just needed to wait for a season where the jewelry worked in organically with the collection, and served the inspiration.” That inspiration, for the record, wasn’t quite as simple as “lightning.” “There’s a theory that the world was created out of the energy of simultaneous lightning bolts,” explained Bimbiloski. Why not start with a Big Bang?
Not to get all intellectual on you the second day of fashion week, but to quote Marshall McLuhan, the medium is the message when it comes to Abigail Lorick’s Spring collection. Well, artist’s medium, that is. Inspired by Francesco Clemente’s watercolors, Edgar Degas’ pastels, and Jonathan Greene’s acrylics, the Gossip Girl ghost-designer created a collection based on portrait sittings. When the models weren’t lounging on the raised-stage tableau (while art student Christine Hostetler stood in the corner at an easel, furiously sketching them), they changed looks on the side, for everyone to see. Lorick was right there—the artist at work—dressing them. Kind of like that scene in Unzipped, sans scrim and Carla Bruni. As we know by now, Lorick is pretty creative, so to solve the near-nude-girl-in-the-room dilemma she whipped up some retro-style bras and tap shorts as underpinnings. The good news is that for Spring she’ll be adding lingerie to her already charming mix of girly frocks. While the cynic would say it’s tough times when models don’t have standard-issue backstage dressers, Lorick begs to differ. “That’s what my clothes are all about—a woman getting dressed and enjoying the process.”
When designer Rachel Antonoff ticks off the list of inspirations for her Spring collection—Judy Garland, Fanny Brice, Pippin—it’s pretty clear she’s got a theater background. Don’t be fooled, however: This girl’s no drama geek. The collection—a sweet mix of forties-inspired frocks, tap shorts, and tops was shown tableau style at the Henry Street Settlement Playhouse. The concept was a dress rehearsal for an imaginary production titled Magic to Do, and she called on some theatrical pals to help bring to life her themes. On hand to model was BFF Alia Shawkat, better known as Maeby from Arrested Development, as well as New York City Ballet dancers. Tulle ballerina dresses and floral-print playsuits were accessorized with Albertus Swanepoel’s pastel headpieces and custom Liberty-print toe shoes. Antonoff hung up her own shoes years ago, but she still takes ballet class with Sarah Sophie Flicker.
The invites have started pouring in, but one in particular so far has stood out: It’s a tiny letter-pressed card wrapped in lo-fi brown wax paper with our name and address hand-typed on—get this—a manual typewriter, from Araks. We were so charmed we called up to ask how long it took to do all of them. Two interns spent 15 hours at the task, it turns out. Here’s one of them hard at work. The collection itself, we learned, takes pointers from the work of Rachel Feinstein Currin and pics of street style faves like Giovanna Battaglia and Vika Gazinskaya.