14 posts tagged "Stefano Gabbana"
For an industry as obsessed with change as fashion is, there certainly were plenty of designers thinking about the past this season. Miuccia Prada said she was revising things she did in the nineties (though, it must be said, most of her almost-15-year-old designs look just as modern today as they did during the Clinton years). Marc Jacobs, who told us it was refreshing to stop trying so hard to be new, tweaked signatures like tweedy three-quarter-length coats and long skirts. And at Dolce & Gabbana, a video showing Domenico Dolce expertly tailoring a jacket was a moving backdrop to the parade of trademark sexy suits he and Stefano Gabbana sent down the runway. As far as trends go, this return to roots is about as customer-friendly as they come. After all, how else would these pieces become classics if they weren’t beloved in the first place?
Click here for more examples of the now and the then, and tell us what you make of the connections.
Radici—it’s the Italian word for roots. And radici were the big story of the first day of Milan’s fall menswear shows. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of their men’s collection this year, Dolce & Gabbana flagged Sicily, the wellspring of their inspiration, by screening clips from Giuseppe Tornatore’s soon-to-be-Oscar-nominated Baari above their catwalk, as groups of models walked in the designers’ versions of classic Sicilian style. One group wearing, the worn-out knits and leggings of farm workers, would be followed by another in black velvet suits to suggest the same lot’s Sunday best. If the echoes of the very first Dolce & Gabbana collection for men were intentional, they also gave this show a real backbone, helped by a ballsy model casting that felt like a riposte to the pigeon-chested man-boys who still rule catwalks here. Break the clothes down to the farmers-vs.-aristocrats face-off that Domenico and Stefano originally borrowed from Luchino Visconti’s Sicilian epic The Leopard and you ended up with sturdy cardigan jackets over henleys and the designers’ artfully distressed signature denims, alongside a laser-sharp three-piece pinstripe suit. The finale offered a horde of stubbled toughs in wifebeaters, just like Massimo Girotti in Visconti’s Ossessione, the inspiration for the first ad campaign the duo ran for their menswear two decades ago. Yes, things have come full circle, and it seemed only appropriate that a return to their roots should produce their best collection in years.
See more pictures of the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010 show here.
Same with Burberry, where Christopher Bailey went back a lot further than 20 years, deep into the history of the house that he has reconfigured as one of the 21st century’s major fashion success stories. Thomas Burberry dressed explorers, pioneers and warriors (the trench coat is so named because soldiers wore it on the front line in the first World War) and that was the heritage Bailey utilized for a menswear collection that was his strongest to date. A parade of outerwear offered everything from a brass-buttoned officer’s coat in army green to a petrol blue leather trench and a shearling-lined flight jacket. The odd fashion flop—those brass buttons used as epaulettes on a sweater, for instance—could be forgiven in the light of the master class in precise military-influenced tailoring that Bailey gave us. But it wasn’t academic at all. More exhilarating—a testament to Bailey’s sense of adventure.
See more pictures of the Burberry Fall 2010 show here.
The Gabbana half of Dolce & Gabbana hates strawberries in winter and buying fur coats in July. He’s not the only one who finds fashion’s current state of affairs to be out of whack.
What would a recession/
depression be without bootleg liquor and (new this decade!) shopping speakeasies? For those who can afford it, high-end shopping is all about “stealth consumption.”
Looking good is the best revenge. Looking good naked on the cover of a national magazine is really much better.