8 posts tagged "Stella Jean"
Florals aren’t exactly a “new” trend, but the eye-catching flora and fauna we’ve seen on the Fall ’14 runways definitely feel like they’re turning over a new leaf. Keep in mind these aren’t your typical ladylike, garden party flowers—there isn’t a pastel in sight. Instead, we’re seeing blown-up proportions, supersaturated hues, and a vibe that errs more toward artsy than girly. At Dolce & Gabbana, a black lace column was covered in tangled blooms and branches for a glam-meets-handmade effect. Stella Jean had quite the opposite approach, combining giant orange daisies with digital African-inspired prints. And at Marni, an oversize shift was covered in ruched white blossoms with pops of electric pink and green for good measure. Dressing like a flower child has never felt so modern.
Back in November, we broke the news of LVMH’s new 300,000-euro LVMH Prize for Young Designers. According to WWD, 1,211 talents applied, and today the short list of thirty semifinalists, who will go on to present their collections to an esteemed panel of experts during Paris fashion week, were announced. CG by Chris Gelinas, Tim Coppens, Suno by Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, and Creatures of the Wind by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters are among the New York-based brands that made the cut. Notable international names include London’s Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait, Meadham Kirchhoff (designed by Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff), and Marques’Almeida (designed by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida); Paris’ Jacquemus (by Simon Porte Jacquemus) and Atto (by Julien Dossena); Rome’s Stella Jean; and more.
Following the Paris presentations, judges will select ten hopefuls from the group of thirty, and these finalists will continue on to compete for the big prize. The decision, which will be made by a group including Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Humberto Leon, Carol Lim, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, and Riccardo Tisci, will be announced in May.
“If I told you I was mixing wax prints, Prince of Wales checks, and astrakhan, you’d say, ‘Oh, how horrible!’” said emerging designer Stella Jean. “But looking at it, you can see that all cultures can work together.” Jean proved her point brilliantly yesterday at Pitti Uomo 85 in Florence, where she was invited for the second season to show her fledgling menswear collection for Fall ’14. Continuing her exploration of multiculturalism, Jean translated her signature bright wax prints into the gentlemen’s club style of Victorian London. She began by reducing the size of the prints, which took the form of tight, geometric patterns inspired by tie designs. These appeared on sharply tailored trousers and double-breasted vests with matching shirts and ties topped by thick tweed coats. “When you want Africa to enter the British concept of tailoring, you have to be very subtle,” offered Jean, who turned out a wax trenchcoat with an astrakhan yoke, and gave the traditional men’s derby shoe a wax upper.
Bright tweed coats looked winter dandy when combined with leather trousers and sweaters in stripes and animal patterns. And the wax smoking jacket with velvet lapels managed to look both exotic and clubby. The best part of this collection, however, were the details: tablet covers in wax, smart scarves, Jean’s Phileas Fogg bag, and wax pattern socks held up by proper gentleman’s garters.
All of us love animals, but designers seem to have a special place in their hearts for little critters. They were virtually impossible to miss on the runways this year. If Givenchy’s Bambi was the most memorable, 2013 found plenty of other designers channeling their inner spirit animals: Miuccia Prada reasserted her love for cats at Miu Miu, with playful kitten coats that echoed her Spring ’10 collection. Diane von Furstenberg took us on safari. And Milan newcomer Stella Jean perched owls on top of her African “wax and stripes” prints. Most recently, Phillip Lim featured poodles for Pre-Fall. Animals came in like a wrecking ball off the runway, too. Who can forget Miley Cyrus at the American Music Awards in her high-cut catsuit?
Giorgio Armani is dead set on reviving Milan fashion week. To contribute to its growth, the designer has started inviting emerging talents to present at his Teatro Armani show space. The first two up-and-comers awarded with a runway were Andrea Pompilio (menswear) and Stella Jean (womenswear), who showed their Spring ’14 ranges with Mr. Armani’s help. Today, the next rising star on his radar was announced: Swiss menswear designer Julian Zigerli. Having studied at the University of Art Berlin, Zigerli’s luxurious, sporty looks (think: a jacket merged with a backpack, relaxed silhouettes, and playful-yet-masculine prints) earned him the Swiss Design Prize in 2011 and also got him a spot in London’s Vauxhall Ones to Watch lineup in 2012. Zigerli will send his Fall ’14 collection down Armani’s catwalk on January 11.