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April 21 2014

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30 posts tagged "Stephen Jones"

Vicki Sarge Is A Detroit Gal At Heart

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Vicki Sarge Few designers can list the struggling metropolis that is Detroit among their muses. Vicki Sarge is one of them. “You can take the girl out of Detroit, but you can’t take Detroit out of the girl!” quipped the jewelry designer, a Motown native, by phone. Though she decamped to London circa 1985 (and to New York before that), Sarge spoke to us during a recent visit to her mother’s Detroit abode. “I never wanted to live here,” she admitted. “But the amazing roots that I have here from my youth have stayed with me the whole time.”

While you may not know her name, you’ve most certainly seen the over-the-top, often dark-tinged baubles Sarge designed during her nearly 40-year tenure at celebrated bijoux brand Erickson Beamon. Together with her co-founders, Karen and Erik Erickson and Eric Beamon, Sarge adorned countless celebrities (Madonna, Beyoncé, Kate Moss, and Lady Gaga among them), collaborated with a bevy of designers (like John Galliano and Dries Van Noten), and transformed “costume jewelry” from a dirty secret to a coveted accoutrement.

But four decades in the same gig is a long time—especially for someone like Sarge, whose colorful path to accessories stardom included a job as the coat-check girl at New York’s Mudd Club (Keith Haring was the creative director at the time), spells as a regular at both Studio 54 and London’s Taboo, and a stint working in the Jim Henson Company creative department, where she got to do some “Muppet stuff.” So last year Sarge struck out on her own to begin a new chapter.

Vicki Sarge Fall '14

The resulting collection of costume jewelry is an intriguing fusion of the designer’s tongue-in-cheek approach to opulence, and her memories of the Motor City. “In the sixties and seventies, Detroit was a really great rock ‘n’ roll place,” Sarge recalled. She credits Iggy and the Stooges—who used to play at her high school dances—with making it as such. “My girlfriend had sex with Iggy after a concert once,” she mentioned casually. “But the music was just this raw sound that could only come out of Detroit. It was really great.”

Sarge explained that the “cool casualness,” and rocker vibe of her line—now in its second season—come from her hometown. But what about Fall 2014′s vibrant red flowers, shimmering crystals, and tribal ear cuffs? “Well, there are glam-rock bits there, too,” Sarge conceded. Surely her wilder days in Eighties London, during which she partied with John Galliano and her close friend Stephen Jones, have wiggled their way into her subconscious, too. “But it all comes from my soul, so it’s authentic me: bold, clean, beautiful, and a little edgy.”

In addition to Sarge’s sophomore solo effort (above), which made its debut during London fashion week, the designer crafted jewelry for Erdem’s Fall show and is working on an upcoming project with hairstylist Sam McKnight. She also hints that a second store (her first is on London’s Elizabeth Street) might be on the horizon. As far as stateside stockists go, the collection was picked up by Net-a-Porter right off the bat (it should be mentioned that Sarge also worked with Mario Testino on his Peruvian capsule for the e-tailer), but the designer hasn’t officially introduced her range to the U.S. market. That unveiling is reserved for a forthcoming spring event with Birmingham, Mich.-based retailer Linda Dresner and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit. “Detroit has given me a hell of a lot—at the very least, my attitude comes from Detroit—and I want to give something back,” offered Sarge. What’s more is that a few of her fancy London friends might tag along for the party. “Stephen’s always telling me he wants to come to Detroit,” she said. Looks like the hatter finally has a good excuse to make the trip.

Photos: Courtesy photos

Hats On for Hat Day

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hats

I have a borderline compulsive addiction to headwear, so you can imagine my delight when I learned that today happens to be National Hat Day (yes, there is such a thing). Seeing as spring is just around the corner, I can’t fathom a better way to celebrate the holiday than by rounding up a few of the season’s best toppers—and there were many to choose from. Carolina Herrera, for instance, sent an oversize black-and-white sun hat with artful, abstract embroidery down her Spring ’14 runway. The classic color combo and dramatic swoosh of its brim are enough to make you feel like you’re sipping rosé on the French Riviera whenever you wear it. Hussein Chalayan‘s ingenious umbrella-hat hybrids are, in my opinion, essential accessories—what better way to brave spring’s showers than with a surreal, waterproof headpiece? Gareth Pugh‘s lavender ostrich chapeau, which looks like a cross between Sam the Eagle and a beefeater’s helmet, is screaming to be worn for a night out on the town (probably not to the theater, though), and Victoria Grant’s Burnout hat—a silver beret that’s garnished with two extra-long cigarettes and golden singe marks—would make quite the conversation piece (not to mention, it would be a fabulous complement to her Velvet Smoke number, which is currently hanging on the hat tree in my bedroom). Stephen Jones’ bedazzled, feather-embellished visor is the only option for a dolled-up game of tennis, and those desiring a bit of quirky glam need look no further than Piers Atkinson’s It’s My Party collection. The milliner’s Swarovski cupcake headband and nail-art-studded hyper cherries are my personal favorites, but in the event that I need to be incognito, this veiled style with an electric-pink mustache would be just the ticket.

The Mystery of the Missing Stiletto Hat

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Hat-Ology

Dio mio! According to WWD, an overzealous fan of the late Anna Piaggi stole one of her most iconic chapeaux—a stiletto hat designed by Bill Cunningham—from the Stephen Jones-curated Hat-ology exhibition in Milan. Jones told the Telegraph, “It was one of her most cherished possessions. I hope that the thief will wear it with as much aplomb and chic as Anna did—especially if it’s a man!” Keep your eyes on the street style sites for the well-hatted bandit.

Hat-ology runs through November 30 at Milan’s Palazzo Morando.

Photo: via the Telegraph

The Next Big Thing: Maiko Takeda, Spring ‘14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Maiko Takeda, Spring '14

Label: Maiko Takeda

Need to know: Tokyo-born, London-based designer Maiko Takeda already has a leg up in the competitive young fashion racket: celebrity endorsement. Her biggest fan? None other than the sartorially scrutinized Björk, who noticed Takeda’s Royal College of Art graduation show (she matriculated just this past summer, with a focus on millinery) on a design blog and commissioned pieces for her 2013 Biophilia Tour. Not bad for a newbie. Following that coup, the British Fashion Council came knocking, asking Takeda to develop her spacey and aural headpieces into a full Spring ‘14 collection that the designer has dubbed Atmospheric Reentry. Hand-composed of thousands of printed-acetate wedges and acrylic disks, Takeda’s snoodlike caps are certainly statement makers, and they embrace the U.K.’s millinery heritage: She’s worked under such greats as Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy.

She says: “I wanted to create something like a cloud on the head. I saw this opera called Einstein on the Beach from 1976 at the Barbican. The whole mood and sound and imagery of it was very futuristic and minimal.”

Where to find it: Maiko Takeda online

Photos: Courtesy of Makio Takeda

The V&A’s Gone Clubbing

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David Walls, Leigh-Bowery and Trojan

“The eighties were about being yourself,” said Kate Bethune when asked about the looks in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s latest show, Club to Catwalk. Open from today, the exhibition explores the explosion of ostentatious creativity that rose out of London’s eighties club scene, and how these underground fashions manifested themselves on the catwalk. Throughout the decade, designers and characters such as John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Boy George, and the king of the club era—performance artist Leigh Bowery (left, center) would create DIY ensembles, dress to the nines, and take on larger-than-life personas in iconic haunts such as Blitz, Kinky Gerlinky, and Taboo. One such character was milliner Stephen Jones, who has two hats featured in the show. “People didn’t really use the word style before 1982,” Jones told Style.com. “But suddenly, your style made it seem as if you were actively concerned about your appearance. It was more personal than fashion,” explained Jones, who described his own nightlife look as “a big dollop of Fellini, hats, French Left Bank, and a little bit of fifties thrown in for good measure.” Naturally, if you weren’t dressed your best, clubs would turn you away at the door. “The Blitz was the most difficult one to get into,” offered Jones. “The guy on the door was Trojan, and he had a little mirror in his pocket, and he’d famously hold it up and say, ‘Would you let you in?’” Jones didn’t have that problem, but sadly none of his own top-to-toe costumes survived. “Our outfits were only made to last one night. They’d sort of dissolve,” he said, adding, “If you wore something from a department store, or designer fashion, it would have been the kiss of death. Terminally uncool.” Continue Reading “The V&A’s Gone Clubbing” »