August 29 2014

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2 posts tagged "Steve Sadove"

Sophie Gimbel: Made to Measure for America


The couture shows will start in Paris on Monday. But next Tuesday, Parsons will bring the (vintage) haute stuff to New York with its latest exhibition, Sophie Gimbel: Fashioning American Couture. Curated by Beth Dincuff, the show explores the legacy of the late Mrs. Gimbel, a mid-century fashion fixture who designed for, ran, and oversaw the buying for Saks Fifth Avenue’s Salon Moderne—an elite shop within Saks that introduced American clients to couturiers like Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Mainbocher—from 1929 until it closed in 1969. Mrs. Gimbel (who was married to Adam Gimbel, the former president of Saks and the grandson of its founder) smartly showed her made-to-measure gowns during the Salon Moderne’s afternoon fashion shows, alongside looks by her French counterparts. Her clients were icons like Greta Garbo, Édith Piaf, actress Claudette Colbert, and the Duchess of Windsor. She even made Lady Bird Johnson’s suit for her husband’s 1965 inauguration. With that in mind, one has to wonder why most of us aren’t well acquainted with Mrs. Gimbel’s work. “I think that the idea of American made-to-measure, or American couture, has been overshadowed by American sportswear, which is obviously something we do very well,” says Dincuff.

Known for her ultra-feminine designs (think big big skirts, lots of tulle, and demure, romantic silhouettes), Gimbel hit her stride in the forties (a savvy businesswoman, she launched her ready-to-wear range in 1943). When journalists couldn’t travel to Paris during WWII, she was featured in Vogue‘s first September American fashion issue. She championed the sporty American body that was fashionable at the time, and rebelled against Dior’s post-war New Look. “She didn’t like the extremeness of it,” explains Dincuff. “She felt it was impractical.” Rather, she preferred that sartorial extravagances be beautiful and functional, like ornate buttons or luxe cardigans draped over strapless ball gowns. Continue Reading “Sophie Gimbel: Made to Measure for America” »

Cheesecake And Checks At Saks


If you haven’t been thinking and seeing pink everywhere you turn, you’re probably living under that proverbial rock. October is, of course, the month for breast cancer awareness. Saks Fifth Avenue is doing its part in a few ways, one of which is donating 2 percent of all this upcoming weekend’s sales to the Entertainment Industry Foundation’s Women’s Cancer Research Fund. To kick it all off, yesterday the store hosted a private lunch on its second-floor café, where a smiling Steve Sadove, Saks’ CEO, was heavily outnumbered by a roomful of women, including Evelyn Lauder, Becki Newton, and Lauren Bush. Sadove announced that the store would be donating another $500,000 to Lauder’s own charitable fund, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

But inevitably, conversation turned to more casual and girly matters. “I’m exhausted,” said Charlotte Ronson. “I’m basically doing double duty with the JCPenney line and my own. But I can’t complain.” Fresh from Paris fashion week, Lauren Remington Platt and Annelise Peterson wistfully recalled the phenomenon of the leisurely European lunch. “I lived in Paris after college and I would just wander around the Marais,” said Platt. Appropriately, a pink dessert was served to end the proceedings. En route to the ladies room, Newton joked, “Don’t steal my cheesecake!”

Photo: Chance Yeh/Patrick