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August 20 2014

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5 posts tagged "Steven Cox"

Duckie Soup

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Daniel Silver and Steven Cox Ever since Daniel Silver and Steven Cox launched their irreverent menswear label, Duckie Brown, in 2001, many young ladies (including this one) have been a little jealous. “Why can’t we get a taste of Duckie’s cheeky, exaggerated wares?” they’d wonder while surveying the CFDA Award-winning designers’ blousy tunics, tartan prints, and elegant jackets. Well, girls, you needn’t continue your green-eyed ways. Today, Silver and Cox announced that they’ll be showing ten womenswear looks when they present their menswear collection at New York fashion week this February. “Duckie Brown has always been inspired by traditional men’s tailoring, and, as designers, we¹re always inspired by womenswear. So the collection will be a reflection of that,” Silver told WWD. “I’m nervous like I was at the beginning of Duckie Brown, and that’s nice,” added Cox. Given their penchant for gender bending (they’ve sent more than a few boys in skirts down the runway), we think that, when it comes to womenswear, the pair will take like ducks to water.

Photo: Stefano Masse/ IndigitalImages.com

The Split-Second Preview: Duckie Brown

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The Spring ’14 collections kick off in New York on Wednesday, followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.

Duckie Brown

WHO: Duckie Brown, designed by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver

WHERE: New York

WHEN: Friday, September 6

WHAT: “We sell beautiful cauliflowers”— Steven Cox and Daniel Silver. The designers sent us a Spring ’14 inspiration image, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Duckie Brown

Perry, Meet Duckie

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For all its incredible history (the path-breaking work of its founder and namesake; that old chestnut about one Marc Jacobs and his legendary and firing-worthy grunge collection), Perry Ellis had gone stale in recent years. But the announcement several months ago about the appointment of a design team has brought buzz back to the American label. Its new creative directors, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver (pictured), the partner-duo behind Duckie Brown, surprised many. Including the designers themselves.

Cox and Silver are the first to admit they came to Perry Ellis from a distance. “I have never been inspired by Perry Ellis in a Duckie Brown collection,” Cox said at a preview at their West Village studio. “Now, go on a few months, having looked at the videos and researched quite heavily into Perry Ellis, I feel it was a really good match. Perry Ellis was considered a little bit kooky, a little bit strange. He had this odd match, that doesn’t look as odd now.”

Kooky is a word often applied to Cox’s Duckie Brown collections, which don’t shy away from dramatic statements. The contemporary perception of Ellis, by contrast, is—to use a phrase the designers don’t much care for—”American sportswear.” “American sportswear seems to me, like, 1960-something,” Cox said. “I am American now, but I was born in England. I don’t have that root in me that is growing up as a teenager with that heritage Ralph Lauren preppy thing. I don’t know about cheerleaders, I didn’t go to a prom. I have no references that a lot of American designers do that are truly American.” His Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection will be “transatlantic sportswear”: beholden to the American tradition but with a more studied design flair.

While the Perry name has plenty of purchase, the designers actually began with a blanker slate than many realize. Ellis himself never did a men’s-only show in his lifetime. The label has no archive; Cox and Silver bought some pieces on eBay, but for the most part, they’re starting fresh. (They’ve been playing video of old Ellis shows on loop in the studio for osmotic effect.) The label as they envision it has a feeling of their own line—and many of the same suppliers and factories—with a more commercial aesthetic, something they say has enabled them to push Duckie even farther, too. Now the question that looms over their debut tomorrow is, will the old Ellis legions approve?

“We’re a little damned if we do, damned if we don’t,” Silver said. “People are going to go ‘it’s very Perry, where’s Duckie?’; people are going to go, ‘it’s very Duckie, where’s Perry?’ I think we did it very successfully; it’s got a real sensibility.”

They, at least, are confident. “I always worry about Duckie Brown; I don’t know if it’s right or wrong,” Cox said. “With this, it’s the opposite.” A preview suggests he’s right to be confident, and Perry may be the latest label fashion’s go-to fixers—who have already helped to revive the fortunes of Florsheim shoes with their Florsheim x Duckie Brown collections—bring back from the beyond. Before tomorrow’s show, the designers shared an exclusive video of the work in progress, below.

Photo: Etienne Tordoir / Getty Images

Karlie Kloss Could Be Skipping NYFW, Moss’ W Shoot, And More…

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Rumor has it that top model Karlie Kloss will be absent from runway shows during New York fashion week. CNN’s fashion reporter Alina Cho tweeted that Kloss is skipping New York for a “big opportunity.” [Racked]

Kate Moss is the cover star of W‘s March issue. The Steven Klein-lensed images show “Good Kate” and “Bad Kate.” [W]

Duckie Brown has joined forces with Perry Ellis on a designer collection set to debut at fashion week in September. Of the partnership, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver tell WWD, “Perry Ellis is synonymous with classic-yet-updated men’s apparel and the brand has a vibrant legacy. This opportunity has enormous potential and we are looking forward to bringing a new articulation of that legacy to retail.” [WWD]

In an effort spearheaded by Diane von Furstenberg and the CFDA, designers are pledging not to cast models under age 16 to walk in their runway shows. The initiative has gained some momentum, but model agencies and designers alike acknowledge that there is still some progress to be made. [NYT]

Photo: Steven Klein

At Duckie Brown, Skin Is In

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“Skinhead” may have become a dirty word, unsalvageable in North America in light of its Neanderthal neo-Nazi associations, but when Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox was a teenager in London, it was the style the coolest boys picked up at Merc on Carnaby Street, and that’s what he was remembering with Duckie’s latest. It wasn’t just period, it was place that made this collection a departure for Cox and Daniel Silver. Family matters have taken Cox home a lot more in the past 12 months, so there was a distinctly English feel to the clothes. But if the cropped pants and bovver boots (Duckie for Florsheim) were maybe too specific to find favor with the average man-fash fan, the sleek black and scarlet crombies and the sharp, broad-shouldered tartan jackets—their hard-to-master saddle/rope shoulder a mark of Cox’s acute experience with tailoring—were more than enough to seduce modern dandies. The chord of decadent ambiguity that always gives a Duckie collection its peculiar spice was struck here by an abbreviated trench in an acidic lime shade and a bellows-pocketed jacket in a sugary tweed. But best in show for me was actually a humble jean jacket in dark Japanese denim. In its own subtle way, it was the most effective advertisement for the Duckie mastery of flattering fit.
For full coverage of the Fall 2010 menswear shows, visit www.gq.com/fashion.

 

 

 

Photos: Marcio Madeira