2 posts tagged "Stieg Larsson"
“Revenge is beautiful.” It’s more than the tagline for the new Zoe Saldana film Colombiana. It’s the operating principle behind the female badass movie. Recall Angelina Jolie’s Lara Croft in short shorts and a low-cut tank that revealed décolletage and deltoids in equal measure. As Colombiana‘s costume designer Olivier Bériot put it, the wardrobe in these movies is “a little bit unreal, but that’s as much for the men in the audience (‘she’s sexy!’ [they're thinking]) as it is for the women (‘she’s powerful’).”
Saldana’s dangerous woman fits the accustomed mold, but there are others these days who are breaking it. In David Fincher’s upcoming The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, Rooney Mara sports bleached eyebrows, piercings, and an asymmetrical, dyed-black haircut that is, to quote Stieg Larsson, as “short as a fuse.” (And if you ask us, she bears an uncanny resemblance to model of the moment Saskia de Brauw.) The wintery white Inuit-inspired clothes that costume designer Lucie Bates created for Saoirse Ronan in Hanna, meanwhile, flouted genre convention; still, her character, a 16-year-old trained assassin, was no less efficient at her tasks.
Black, of course, is the wardrobe color of choice for screen killers—and for their deadly chic counterparts on the runways. In his review of Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall collection, Tim Blanks likened her models to “a lost tribe of Amazonian warrior women,” their bodies slung with bandoliers stuffed with feathers instead of bullets. Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill similarly amplified the human form, cutting a shearling leather and knit jacket with exaggerated, full sleeves. “It’s about the embrace of the female body,” Adams said, “but not being afraid of its powerful side.”
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Sweden is having a subtle but strong (in other words, very Swedish) moment right now: There’s Let the Right One In at the box office, Stieg Larsson on the bestseller lists, Fever Ray on the indie charts, and Acne advancing on all fronts. And Stockholm was where it was at over the weekend, when Swedish fragrance line Byredo launched its first free-standing store and the Hotel Skeppsholmen opened its doors. The weather wasn’t cooperative, but rain or shine, the city is a beaut, with what are surely the best-looking urbanites in the world (perhaps one reason why Sweden just got tagged the best country for women to live in). There were 70 local lookers shooting schnapps at the dinner Byredo founder Ben Gorham hosted in the royal family’s harborside ice-skating pavilion on Friday night. (A London contingent led by Anouck Lepère and PR maven Gillian McVey kept up the English side.) Gorham is typical of the new Sweden: culturally diverse background (Canadian dad, Indian mum), outward-looking, updating traditional Swedish design values (let’s say pure rather than minimal, like the stark but soothing Skeppsholmen) with a dash of dry wit and modern sensuality. IKEA-style homogeneity isn’t really the style of this new breed, who are helping to turn Stockholm into a style magnet all over again. You could wait till midsummer’s night, when the weather is reportedly perfect, to sample the city, but then you’d miss Francesco Vezzoli’s brilliant revisionist take on Salvador Dalí, which closes at the Moderna Museet on January 17.