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June 19 2013

styledotcom .@WorldMcQueen enters the fragrance market: stylem.ag/11o9Gq5

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2 posts tagged "Stuart Vevers"

Mohawked Top to Toe

Ever since Fendi debuted its multicolored fur Mohawks in Milan, the punked-up coifs have been fanning out all over the Fall runways. But they’re not appearing as you might expect; rather, designers have appropriated the motif and completely turned it on its head. For starters, Fendi’s pastel quiffs got so much attention that one might have missed Lagerfeld’s punchy Mohawked boots and bags. Haider Ackermann put his own spin on the look, sending his models out with white matted hair fashioned into “death hawks” (a style favored by goths). Not surprisingly, the same rebellious tresses popped up in black at Vivienne Westwood, but the Dame of Punk placed her death dos on black platform booties rather than her catwalkers’ noggins. Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with aubergine and bubblegum-highlighted faux-hawk-mullet hybrids at his Fall show, and over at Loewe, Stuart Vevers garnished the heels of his single-soled sandals with exaggerated, razor-sharp black or blonde fringe. Loewe’s shoes were a particularly “uptown” take on the antiestablishment-rooted style (what would the punks of the seventies have said about that?) and reminded us of YSL’s much-snapped suede Mohawk pumps from Fall 2010. Now, don’t shave and dye your hair just yet (or, actually, maybe do), but we’d have to say that the Mohawk, in its many incarnations, is one of Fall’s most prominent (and playful) punk trends so far.

Photos: GoRunway.com

Blasblog: Tales From The Couture Cocktail Circuit

Balmainia is no laughing matter. Last night, the fashion house had planned to host a simple little cocktail party to celebrate the refurbishment of their store on the rue François—but by the time word of the fête reached me, the whole thing had blown into a full-on fashion gala. A few hours before the party, Balmain PR e-mailed to break the news that there would be no red carpet, runway show, or celebrity co-hosts, but there was no shortage of chic ladies in their latest Christophe Decarnin duds. “It’s a Balmain army,” Decades’ Cameron Silver observed, not only for the military influences on many of the large-shouldered jackets, but also for how many of the women here would kill if necessary to get their hands on the goods. In the middle of it all was Decarnin himself, soft-spoken and shy as always. He said that he enjoyed updating the store with antique moldings and gilded paneling, since the store hadn’t been touched up since the 1980′s. I thought he might have liked an eighties vibe—his designs have done more than a little digging in that territory—but he demurred. “The stuff here was not the good eighties.”

A few blocks down the rue François, Loewe was hosting a cocktail party of its own for a new line of leather outerwear classics Stuart Vevers designed for the label, as well as to celebrate their new, Katie Grand-styled campaign. Grand had originally only booked two models, Pixie Geldof and Louis Simonon, the son of the Clash frontman and sometime model, who fronted Prada’s Spring campaign last year. But once the snapping began, she felt that there was one trenchcoat that wasn’t right for Pixie or Louis. “I was walking my dog in the park and Katie called,” Tricia Simonon (above, with Louis, her son), remembered at the party. “She asked me to come on the shoot, but I didn’t want to be the sort of mother who tries to jump in on her son’s campaign. I didn’t want to step on his toes.” She didn’t have the chance, not literally at least: She laughed as she told me that Louis took off before she even arrived.

Photo: Courtesy of Loewe