6 posts tagged "Stuart Vevers"
To infinity and beyond! The new Fall collections found designers thinking intergalactically. Who could’ve guessed that we’d see Star Wars motifs at not one, but two shows? Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy revisited their favorite childhood films with a buzzy finale of gowns featuring familiar characters like Luke Skywalker, C-3PO, and even Yoda. Just five days later, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi crossed over to the dark side with Darth Vader-printed looks and an entourage of stormtroopers who mingled with the models backstage. Others weren’t quite so literal with their outer space references. At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld sent out a series of sheared fur coats and floaty silk velvet maxi dresses that resembled celestial charts. Elsewhere, Coach’s Stuart Vevers whipped up an Apollo sweater that echoed the one worn by Danny Torrance in The Shining. And Albert Kriemler, working closely with the German photographer Thomas Ruff, incorporated up close surface shots of Mars into several looks at Akris. Meanwhile, our award for the cleverest take on the cosmic trend goes to Undercover’s Jun Takahashi, who printed tiny UFOs on the borders of his Delft-china-patterned pieces.
You can’t say we didn’t warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that’s not all. Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is. But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we’re pretty sure he’s up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe’s classic look.
After announcing his 2014 departure from Coach earlier this year, Reed Krakoff (or, if we’re going to be specific, a business group led by Krakoff) is buying his namesake label from Coach Inc., according to WWD. Earlier this month, Bloomberg reported that Coach—which recently hired Loewe’s Stuart Vevers to replace Krakoff as executive creative director—was trying to unload the Krakoff label and would cut the designer’s bonus by a cool $3 million if an agreement to sell the brand wasn’t reached by July 29 (yesterday). He appears to have slid in just under the deadline. The sale is expected to be finalized a few months before Krakoff officially leaves Coach next year.
Coach has named its new executive creative director and, somewhat unsurprisingly, it’s not Marc Jacobs. Rather, Stuart Vevers, formerly the creative director of Spanish house Loewe, got the gig, replacing Reed Krakoff, who, two months ago, announced that he would be leaving the company in June 2014 to focus on his eponymous collection. “Stuart is recognized as one of the world’s leading accessories designers,” Coach president and chief commercial officer Victor Luis told WWD. “His passion, leadership skills, and broad luxury brand experience, focused on leather goods, uniquely qualify him to lead the next chapter of Coach,” Indeed, Vevers—who will be in charge of all creative aspects of the brand—has a wealth of hit-handbag experience. Before heading to Loewe in 2008, he held positions at Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, Calvin Klein, and Louis Vuitton, each of which have strong accessories ranges. The English designer also won the British Fashion Council’s Accessory Designer of the Year award in 2006 while working as the creative director of Mulberry, a role that he held from 2005 to 2008.
Ever since Fendi debuted its multicolored fur Mohawks in Milan, the punked-up coifs have been fanning out all over the Fall runways. But they’re not appearing as you might expect; rather, designers have appropriated the motif and completely turned it on its head. For starters, Fendi’s pastel quiffs got so much attention that one might have missed Lagerfeld’s punchy Mohawked boots and bags. Haider Ackermann put his own spin on the look, sending his models out with white matted hair fashioned into “death hawks” (a style favored by goths). Not surprisingly, the same rebellious tresses popped up in black at Vivienne Westwood, but the Dame of Punk placed her death dos on black platform booties rather than her catwalkers’ noggins. Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with aubergine and bubblegum-highlighted faux-hawk-mullet hybrids at his Fall show, and over at Loewe, Stuart Vevers garnished the heels of his single-soled sandals with exaggerated, razor-sharp black or blonde fringe. Loewe’s shoes were a particularly “uptown” take on the antiestablishment-rooted style (what would the punks of the seventies have said about that?) and reminded us of YSL’s much-snapped suede Mohawk pumps from Fall 2010. Now, don’t shave and dye your hair just yet (or, actually, maybe do), but we’d have to say that the Mohawk, in its many incarnations, is one of Fall’s most prominent (and playful) punk trends so far.