3 posts tagged "Supreme"
It’s coming…. Last year, it was announced that Rei Kawakubo’s conceptual shopping wonderland, Dover Street Market, which already has locations in London and Tokyo, would be opening its doors in New York. But we didn’t know exactly when the Manhattan mecca would launch, until today. This afternoon, DSM revealed that the store, located on the fittingly unlikely corner of Thirtieth Street and Lexington Avenue, will bow on December 21. What treasures will be on offer, you ask? Prada, Thom Browne, Supreme, Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, Alaïa, Atto, A.P.C., Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, and a brand-new range from nineties fashion star Andre Walker are just some of the lines on DSM New York’s stock list. And don’t worry—wares from every breed of Comme des Garçons you could possibly dream of will be up for sale, too. Whether DSM will be able to transform the notoriously bland Murray Hill neighborhood into something with a little more elegance and edge is up for debate, but if anyone can do it, it’s Rei Kawakubo. For more information on DSM’s stateside arrival, read our Q&A with Comme des Garçons CEO Adrian Joffe.
Sex and streetwear aren’t the most obvious bedfellows, but editor, stylist, and all-around provocateur Andrew Richardson has united them in his new store, Richardson. “I don’t know if there is a logical connection between sex and streetwear, but I always thought that streetwear was sexy and cool,” he mused between puffs on a cigarette. “There’s always an attitude, and I think that’s sexy—sexy confidence.” That may be so, but his shop, which opens this Friday at 325 Broome Street in New York, sells swag that’s arguably more perverse than confidence-boosting hoodies.
Best known for his cerebral, self-titled sex magazine, also called Richardson, Andrew is well versed in the streetwear subculture—he’s even done a bevy of projects with cult label (or, as some would argue, lifestyle) Supreme. In his store, Andrew presents his liberated take on sex and bondage via clever T-shirts, bomber jackets, swim trunks, caps, and towels—many of which were created in collaboration with such artists as Christopher Wool, Bjarne Melgaard, and Aaron Bondaroff. Some highlights include a melting snowman shirt by Nate Lowman; a tee printed with a car that reads “Blow Jobs”; totes scribed with the store’s ethos, “Work hard, play nice, communicate”; and a sweatsuit by artist Mark Gonzales. Embellished with images of lady parts and a cowboy flaunting his impressive member, the latter is guaranteed to inspire stares.
The shop goes beyond threads, though. For instance, good pal Olympia Le-Tan designed a signature patch for Richardson’s club car jacket—more intriguing, though, is her capsule of erotic minaudières (think bags embroidered with busty femmes and titles like Fanny Hill, Cutter Girl, Carnal Cargo, or Sweet and 20.) Above the clutches’ case hang drawings by Japanese artist Hauro Namaikawa that depict couples in compromising, albeit comical, positions. And, across the room, shelves are lined with an A-to-Z collection of erotic tomes, which was curated by Idea Books, London. Richardson is, of course, on sale, too. “There are going to be guys who are my age who are going to come in and spend $1,800 on an original drawing, and I think we’ll have 25-year-old skaters who want to wear fucked-up T-shirts to scare their parents,” said Andrew of his clientele. “There’ll be a range.”
When the editor—whose résumé, it should be noted, includes working on Madonna’s Sex book, as well as shoots with heavyweights like Terry Richardson, Steven Meisel, and Ellen von Unwerth—was asked about the thinking behind his sex-themed products, he told us, “I was always into that idea of idolizing women through sexual provocation…and I’m trying to find that fine line between palatability and provocation. If you’re too provocative, you end the debate.” Ultimately, his patrons will be the ones to decide whether he’s found that balance; however, no matter how explicit or ridiculous Richardson’s offerings may be, everything is done with a wink, a smile, and a streetwise attitude. And somehow, that makes it seem all the sexier.
Supreme, James Jebbia’s adored skate and skatewear brand, is having a moment—again. I say so with hesitation and trepidation, since the very concept of “having a moment” (the faddishness, the transitoriness, the triviality) is one that Jebbia most likely loathes, and has worked hard during the entire existence of Supreme to avoid. Supreme doesn’t court press, celebrities, or global ubiquity. (That may be exactly the reason that the likes of Kate Moss, Lou Reed, and Kermit the Frog have all signed on to be in its guerrilla ad campaigns.) But whether Jebbia would like it or not, Supreme does seem to be making news again, with the Times weighing in recently on its durable merits and the new issue of Britain’s GQ Style calling it “the coolest streetwear brand in the world right now.”
Arguably all of those publications are merely trailing in the wake of the much-loved Berlin biannual 032c, which published its own history of Supreme last year. But rather than dwell on (or stew in) its preeminence on the subject, the magazine instead took another step forward, organizing an exhibition of sorts in the eight-meter, Konstantin Grcic-designed vitrine that’s housed in its editorial office. In the past, that vitrine has been dedicated to showing the work of 032c collaborators like Juergen Teller, Helmut Lang, and Tate Modern director Chris Dercon; now it’s given over to the artist-collaboration skate decks Supreme has created over the year, with people like Takashi Murakami, Christopher Wool, Harmony Korine, and Damien Hirst. “It made perfect sense to invite Supreme, which has created an incredible mythology, to exhibit their series of artist collaborations, a project that has been going on now for over a decade,” 032c‘s Joerg Koch says. “The skate decks are a systematic approach to the relationship between art, consumerism, and hype.” The magazine’s own systematic approach to commemorating this particular relationship between art and hype was a more traditional one: a raging party. Continue Reading “Reigning Supreme” »