For his latest collection, Erdem Moralioglu took the pretty girl from his Spring show and turned her on her head. Well, not literally, but the London-based designer toyed with the codes of femininity in a darker way by incorporating latex used for bondage and mixing it with soft lace. And his followers like the results: “So far, the pieces that people seem attracted to are the latex dresses and the trompe l’oeil tweed chiffon pieces,” he tells Style.com.

The road to the final product, however, was a long (and not always easy) one: “The finale dress was a challenge. It took weeks of hand embroidery—we almost didn’t finish it in time,” he says. The Canadian-born designer’s sister, Sara Moralioglu, followed his entire creative process this season, from design concept to the show, and caught it all on film. “This collection was particularly interesting as he would talk about various fabrics, things like latex or colors that you wouldn’t necessarily think of as beautiful,” she says. “There were lots of elements in this season that on paper sounded really off, but then he would transform them into these fabulous dresses and gowns.” Style.com has the exclusive Swarovski-presented film, here.