August 28 2014

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5 posts tagged "T"

Li on T: The New Creative Director Speaks


The goings and comings at T were covered with the obsessive tabloid attention usually reserved for politicians’ love affairs and Real Housewives. But the dust has settled and a new team is in place at the magazine: editor in chief Deborah Needleman and creative director Patrick Li, who helmed WSJ. magazine together before making the leap to the Times. Their debut issue of the magazine is on stands this Sunday. Before the launch, Li—who has also worked with Jason Wu, Rodarte, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Alexander Wang through his own firm, Li Inc.—sat down with to talk logos, photos, and what’s to come.

Congratulations on the launch issue. Obviously it’s the product of an enormous amount of work.
And this doesn’t represent the complete—Deborah’s complete—vision. I mean, there’s much more to come. We wanted a very pointed reset, in a way. [Now] it’s a very elegant and restrained look at the system and look at the fashion world.

Starting with the “T” itself. What’s the response been to that?
The response has been generally favorable. I’ve been talking to a lot of people in my immediate design world, and, honestly, there it’s been slightly mixed. You know, “Why did you change?” And then after I explain why, it’s like it becomes clearer.

Part of that must be that it’s a sacred cow.
Well, it’s a sacred cow that’s, you know, seven years old, right? But after the success of launching T as a magazine…the newspaper has really adopted the gothic “T” as a symbol of the paper. It’s not the same logo as the old “T,” but no one else is really going to notice that. So there was confusion out there in the world—like, What’s the paper and what’s the magazine? And there are very strategic plans for the magazine to grow into a fuller, bigger, self-sustaining initiative. It, of course, gets its power from the Times, but it needs its own identity, so Deborah was very adamant about having the logo represent something more forward-looking. It’s very sans serif—a more streamlined look—and then we brought over certain aspects…[that are like] the old “T.” So there are similarities, or shared common points, but obviously it’s manifested itself in a totally different way, which we’re thrilled with. And it’s evolving and changing as we speak. It’s a slow reveal, but you’ll see different iterations of the logo going forward.

So you’re starting on the most minute level. How does that kind of ground-up redesign express itself throughout the magazine?
The content is imbued with the same qualities, and the look, I guess, comes from a response to the content. And like this issue, it’s very restrained. [But] I have this expression that I’m trying to fight the tyranny of good taste. I feel like we need to have some sort of transgressive moments to make it more relevant or have this, like, vibration between something very understandably beautiful and something a bit more uncomfortable.

One of my favorite things [was] developing a typeface, and actually, first of all, being at a place where they understand the importance of that. When I first got here, I was like, “Can we do a font that’s unique to T?” And they said yes and didn’t have any resistance to it at all—which I was surprised about. Continue Reading “Li on T: The New Creative Director Speaks” »

Competitive Partying With T and WSJ.


Today, the mailman brought an invite to a fashion-week party celebrating Deborah Needleman’s first issue as the editor in chief of T. But check the calendar: Thursday night is also the night of an event celebrating Kristina O’Neill’s first issue as editor in chief of WSJ.—Needleman’s old stomping grounds—at the very same time. Naturally, we had a lot of questions: Was the scheduling snafu unintentional? Or is it the next sally in the magazines’ ongoing standoff? A representative from T told us that their date was selected months ago and they only learned about the competing event after invitations were printed. (Reps for WSJ. didn’t return requests for comment.) Needless to say, some alliances will be formed on Thursday night. Or the truly enterprising could attend—and, for that matter, subscribe to—both.

Who Makes Us Run For Cover?


The latest data from the publishing industry’s Audit Bureau of Circulations is out, WWD reports, and with it some tantalizing news about who really sent magazines flying off the newsstand in 2010 (and who didn’t). Despite some caveats (reporting doesn’t go through every 2010 issue for Condé Nast or Hearst magazines), the runaway winner was Lady Gaga, who graced the best-selling issue of Rolling Stone, the second-best-selling issue of Vanity Fair, and the third-best-selling issue of Elle during the reported period. Joining her in the cover girl pantheon are Rihanna (newsstand magic for GQ and Seventeen) and, believe it or not, Lauren Conrad, who appeared on Glamour‘s September issue, its best-selling of the year through November. Curiously not mentioned is Kim Kardashian, whose nude-and-body-painted cover of W‘s November art issue caused quite a stir. Glamour, at least, is betting on her: The reality starlet appears, in Tom Ford pajamas and a La Perla bra, on the monthly’s new February 2011 issue (left).

Photo: Courtesy of Glamour

A New Parent For Proenza, When Marc Met Diddy, V For Victory (And Vodianova), And More…


Is Proenza getting a new parent? Rumor has it Theory president Andrew Rosen—who, in addition to controlling Theory and Helmut Lang, has invested in Rag & Bone, Alice + Olivia and Gryphon—is mulling a stake in the New York label. Pemira, which owns 45% of the business is looking to sell its share; designers Jack McCollough, Lazaro Hernadez, and CEO Shirley Cook will keep their 55%. [WWD]

It’s battle of the newspaper glossies this weekend when the first Sally Singer-edited issue of T and the first Deborah Needleman-edited issue of WSJ. hit stands. A hundred lucky people got a sneak preview today, though: T put 100 copies near their offices on 40th Street, which, according to Twitter, were gone within 2 hours. [@themoment]

Is Diddy elbowing in on Kanye territory? The rapper is certainly courting the fashion world at the moment: His next album, Last Train to Paris, features spoken-word cameos from Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi, Tommy Hilfiger, and André Leon Talley. [Huffington Post]

And Natalia Vodianova (left) must have had her Jock Jams blasting lately. The gorgeous model has been repping her home country of Russia on two separate athletic fronts lately: As the official Ambassador of the 2014 Olympic Games in Sochi, and as part of a delegation to secure the 2018 World Cup for Russia. [Modelinia]

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Elie Tahari Lives Large, Menswear Bulks Up, Ladies Shop Online, And More…


It’s a big day, quite literally, for Elie Tahari: The designer opened a new 2,250-square-foot shop in Saks Fifth Avenue, the largest on the retailer’s fourth floor. “I thought Ron [Frasch, Saks’ president and CMO] was going to give me my own zip code,” Tahari said. [WWD]

And it’s about to be a big week for menswear. According to a rough count, there are 42 men’s presentations and shows scheduled for New York fashion week (not counting coed presentations), making this season the largest for menswear in memory. [WWD]

What do girls want? To shop online for designer clothes. Nothing too strange about that. What is strange is that designers and their reps don’t seem to understand why. [NYT]

Racked applies itself to some heavy-hitting investigative journalism and discovers that the mysterious @FashionWeekNYC Twitterer is…some guy named Nathan Stobezki. Case closed, probably. [Racked]

Good news from fashion’s revolving doors: Vogue‘s Ethel Park has been named T‘s new senior fashion director. [NYT]

Bad news from fashion’s revolving doors: Chloé CEO Ralph Toledano has left the company; designer Hannah MacGibbon is said to be “devastated.” ]Fashionologie]

Photo: Andrew Thomas