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April 23 2014

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6 posts tagged "Tammy Kane"

Christopher Kane Gets A Home of Its Own

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Christopher Kane Spring '14It’s a big day for Christopher Kane. Not only did the designer unveil his Spring ’14 collection (left) this morning at London fashion week, but the house also announced that it will open its first flagship store in London’s tony Mayfair neighborhood before the end of 2014. This is the second notable development for the brand since it sold 51 percent of its business to Kering earlier this year—the first having been the appointment of Alexandre de Brettes as CEO this past July. “To have our own retail space gives us the chance to showcase our collections and to really express our vision,” offered Christopher and Tammy Kane in a press release. “To open in London first was really important to us as this is where our label was born.”

Photo: Marcus Tondo/ Indigitalimages.com

Christopher Kane’s First Big Hire

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A look from Christopher Kane's Resort '14 CollectionAfter being acquired by Kering last January, Christopher Kane has made its first big hire, naming Alexandre de Brettes—formerly Kering’s director of financial communications and market intelligence—as its CEO. De Brettes will officially step into his new role on September 1. “We are delighted that Alexandre is joining our company,” offered Christopher and Tammy Kane. “Together, we will focus on organic global growth and protecting and nurturing the creative DNA of our business,” added the brother-sister team, who, after running their London-based label independently for six and a half years, sold a 51 percent stake to Kering so they could focus on the creative side and expand the brand. Back in January, Kane told us, “We all want to conquer the world. And the world is our oyster with [Kering].”

Photo: Courtesy of Christopher Kane

PPR Acquires 51 Percent of Christopher Kane

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London / Paris – 15 January 2013 – PPR and Christopher Kane jointly announced today that they have signed an agreement by which PPR acquires 51 percent of the luxury designer brand “Christopher Kane” in order to develop the business in partnership with its creator, the Scottish designer Christopher Kane.

And so the speculation finally ended. “It’s quite something,” Christopher Kane said before the announcement today. “But I think I’m going to celebrate tomorrow. It still feels surreal. I’ve been told to stay quiet for so long that I almost feel wrong talking about it.”

“So long” is, in fact, the entire year that Kane was in negotiations with PPR. First contact came from CEO François-Henri Pinault. “I guess he’s always looking out, and he wanted to meet me.” And while the huge process of business and accounts ground on over the course of the next 12 months, rumors flourished, most significantly the one that said Kane would take over from Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, another hot PPR property. “The Balenciaga thing wasn’t a bad thing,” he conceded, “but I had to make sure I denied that straightaway so that the PPR investment in my business didn’t look like a consolation prize.”

PPR felt right to Kane from the start. “We were a six-and-a-half-year-old independent company which was very cautious about letting people in, but we got to the point where we were really looking for people with the knowledge and expertise to take the business to a bigger arena. People say, ‘PPR?’ I say, ‘Look at the portfolio. Look at the British brands, like Stella and McQueen.’ François wants to nurture the creativity that makes each business unique. He signed McQueen, and the DNA of the brand is still intact. PPR likes to take things step by step. It’s not headfirst. They want to make sure everything’s all right—and they have the patience for it.”

Now, Kane’s own step-by-steps will include the obvious retail expansion. “A shop is a dream, a real stamp of approval,” he says. There are also other logical extensions, like the leather goods he’s never been able to do. And then there’s the stuff you don’t figure in. “Even things like the running of the office during the day. We’ve had to juggle so many other things. We spent more than half the day on paperwork and e-mails, and it was when we left work that we could get creative. Now we’ll be creating 24/7. To be able to do that all the time will be such a luxury.”

Kane has already had a taste of what this intense new freedom will be like. “Even not doing Versace this season, I feel so much better. I did my pre-fall collection in two weeks. It was a great exercise, because it shows you what you can do.” That would suggest he actually responds well to pressure. “Sometimes when you’re rushed, you create your best work,” he agrees. “But it was always really rushed. Now we’ll have time to execute the ideas.” Anyway, the pressure is scarcely off. There’s the show in February, which will now draw even more attention than usual, not just to Kane but to London. The same thing happened to Alexander McQueen in another decade, but one major difference is that there’s no chance Kane will be leaving anytime in the foreseeable future.

Times have changed. Kane proves a designer can dream the grandest dreams without having to leave home (albeit an adopted one) to make them come true. “Success is so powerful,” he says. “We all want to conquer the world. And the world is our oyster with PPR. They’ve got huge resources, huge brains, and I take this as a huge compliment, and a huge security. But I just want to continue with what I’m doing.”

Best of all, the new deal restores a critical balance to Kane’s story. He’d never be where he is now without his sister Tammy, but as the business grew, she took on more and more of the practicalities and had less time for the fun stuff with her brother. “Now she’ll be with me again,” Kane says. And that’s a real happy ending.

Photo: Marcus Tondo/GoRunway.com

10 Turns Ten

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A decade is an even longer time in fashion years, so for its tenth anniversary, Sophia Neophitou’s 10 threw an appropriately lavish bash. “It’s miraculous that I have made my dream come true and enjoyed it for ten years,” Neophitou said at her mag’s celebration in London last night. “I hope the next ten years bring more and more fantasies and the adventures that creatively challenge me and my readers—always.”

As challenges go, there are few people in the business better equipped to provide them. The Greek goddess (above, with Roland Mouret, left, and Tim Blanks and a partygoer, right) with the throaty laugh and penchant for combining a utilitarian parka with teetering, non-utilitarian heels has worn more hats, and worked with more people, than most. Included on her CV are the titles of editor (in addition to helming 10, she edits fashion coverage for Harper’s Bazaar U.K. and Russian Vogue), creative director (of Roland Mouret and Antonio Berardi), and stylist (in which capacity she had the enviable duty of touching “those bodies”—i.e., David and Victoria Beckham, for their 10 covers). In the course of it, she’s made more than a few high-profile friends and fans, including Christopher Kane and Tammy Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Katie Hillier, Dree Hemingway, Henry Holland, Mouret, and more, all of whom packed Il Bottaccio to raise a glass and sway to three of the hottest new DJs in town: Mez (of The Neat) and Michael Hibbert and Alex Parry (of Chapel Club).

A tenth anniversary issue demands an appropriately festive cover girl, and Neophitou snagged the prize of the moment: Anna Dello Russo. The ADR cover, she explained, “celebrated everything fashion should love, has a sense of humor—after all, we aren’t brain surgeons—and a real sense of fun. Also, there is definitely a sense of being a little addicted to fashion.” 10‘s the perfect fix.

Photos: Courtesy of 10

The Kane Family Celebrates

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There’s east London’s now-trendy Shoreditch and then, a bit north and even farther afield, there’s Dalston—that’s where Christopher Kane keeps his studio, and where, last night, he gathered the troops for his annual, much-anticipated birthday party. The neighborhood, like Kane himself, is moving from up-and-coming to arrived. And where else can you find a great gay bar (the Dalston Superstore, last night’s venue), a 24-hour hamam, and excellent Vietnamese restaurants?

His party is very much a family-and-friends event—Kane, his mom, his aunts, and his sister and business partner, Tammy (pictured with Christopher, left), are legendarily close. His friends are, too: Lulu Kennedy and Louise Wilson both came to raise a glass, and Chris’ bestie, the award-winning hairdresser Gary Rees, even flew in from Scotland for the day. “I wouldn’t miss this for the world,” he said. “Chris has been my best mate forever, and, well, this lot, we just stick together, don’t we all?”

The happy host was graciously tending to his guests, pausing to tell us how busy he was, how much he was loving it, and encouraging everyone to get a drink. He wasn’t the only one celebrating. Tammy was introducing her handsome fiancé, Richard, around to the group, beaming in a rose-embroidered dress from her brother’s Spring ’10 collection. “It’s very much a new thing, we just got engaged!” she said. Looks like Chris is going to be even busier coming up with a wedding dress.

Photo: Anwar Hussein / Wire Image