4 posts tagged "Teatum Jones"
Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones, the design duo behind up-and-coming label Teatum Jones, are patriotic in a way that few English designers are. Their production and fabric sourcing all happens within the U.K., and that kind of home-ice advantage resonates with British customers. The label sells briskly at Harvey Nichols and Liberty, and its fan base continues to grow.
When it comes to inspiration, however, far-flung locales are not off-limits. For Fall ’14, the pair, who love a good narrative just as much as they love prints, “cried all the way to Nashville.” The collection was inspired by Avedon’s portraits of the American Deep South, but with an English twist.
In the past, the designers have blurred the lines between masculine and feminine dressing, and they continued on this gender bender for Fall. It was all slightly kooky, but, strangely, immensely desirable.
Their quirky English cowboy/girl was rocking tweed and Lurex overalls, and grid-like black-and-white patterns were inspired by the South’s ubiquitous chicken wire. Fraying and deconstructed details abounded on layered hems, and a sweater in brick red was made from hairy silk fleece, meant to represent the tumbleweeds blowing in the Southern wind. Their Frye chunky-heeled boots were an instant hit, as were their Amish-style hats.
Judging by this outing, which also featured a dove gray culottes suit and a kaleidoscopic one-shouldered gown, it feels like Teatum Jones’ arrival is nigh—that is, if it hasn’t happened already.
Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones—the London-based designers behind ready-to-wear label Teatum Jones—respect their moms so much, they’ve built their entire Spring ’14 collection around them. “The story was all about hard-working women who are in a continuous work mode—a woman who rarely rests. She is not a ball-breaker, nor does she need to be praised for her hard graft—she just rolls up her sleeves and gets on with it,” said Teatum during an preview of the collection.
For those not familiar with the Teatum Jones aesthetic, the design duo’s signature has always been eclectic prints, which are meticulously thought out, researched, studied and drawn up by hand. For example, the three-year-old brand’s Spring “tea towel” print was inspired by one of Teatum’s childhood memories. “I have a vivid recollection of my mom cooking and cleaning for us, and she always had a tea towel thrown over her shoulder, which to me represented the ‘just get on with it’ attitude,” Teatum explained. “We used that tea towel detail as a bit of a theme.” The motif is woven into the shoulder detail of a gown and appears on a biker jacket. The collection includes an unexpected floral print, too—unexpected because it features a trompe l’oeil rendering of a wrinkled hand peeking out among the roses.
The two have become textile pioneers, as well. “We really wanted to push the limits of fabrics and what we can do with them. We basically invented this woven jacquard, then laminated it,” said Jones of a series of skirts and tops that felt almost crunchy. “The [people at the] mill in Italy, where we created this fabric, were so excited with it, they have asked us if they could purchase some. That’s gotta be a good sign,” he added. Certainly it is, but that’s not the only sign that the two are posed for a breakout year: Their label is one of the top two sellers on Liberty’s international floor, and won this year’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise New Fashion Ventures award, joining the ranks of previous victors like Erdem, Peter Pilotto, and Mary Katrantzou. Needless to say, the up-and-comers’ future is looking bright.
Have an exclusive first look at the label’s Spring ’14 collection, above, and keep an eye out for the full lineup when it debuts on Sunday at London fashion week.
“I like a lot of embellishment and I like a lot of print,” said Holly Fulton. She might have been speaking for all her fellow English designers at the London Showrooms, the traveling, British Fashion Council-sponsored showcase which arrived in New York this week, following a stint in L.A. It’s almost a cliché that London designers trend bright and buzzy, but it’s become something of a calling card for the young talents nurtured by the BFC. To tweak the old saw, go big or stay home.
Fulton served up her groupie-inspired Fall collection, which featured lava-rock embellishments, hand-drawn prints, and a rather impressive dress constructed entirely of feathers. Others, like Simone Rocha (above), who’s currently selling stateside in Jeffrey and Opening Ceremony, offered less print but more color. Her key pieces were voluminous waffle-knitted neoprene looks in what she laughingly referred to as “Pepto pink.” Thomas Tait also played on unexpected fusion of spongy, bonded leather and quilted nylon in Day-Glo oranges and lime greens. “I feel like I’ve been shouting,” said Tait, whose line is also carried at Jeffrey. “I’ll be doing something mellower next season.”
Meanwhile, Fyodor Golan, designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, balanced elegant, elaborately embellished print dresses with more playful leather pieces embossed with smiley faces. Turns out Smiley—the company that owns the rights to the icon—approached the duo for a collaboration, and they jumped at the chance to create, as Frydman put it, a “sexual smiley.” Another duo, Teatum Jones (that is to say, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones) showed bright, seemingly tie-dyed dresses in perforated bonded jersey, as well as a few particularly interesting coats in latex-coated alpaca wool. Yet a third duo, Palmer//Harding, also in attendance, used a similarly clever technique on their wools to make them look like leather.
Men’s designers were on display, too, and they came with news to share. James Long whispered that half the designers showing on the Paris calendar had called to personal-order his sweater knitted with a giant picture of Divine. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton of Agi & Sam had news of an offbeat football (read: soccer) and owl-inspired capsule collection they’ll launch at Topman next month. And jeweler Dominic Jones revealed he’ll show his first-ever men’s collection during June’s London Collections: Men. In the meantime, he was showing his mainline collection as well as his recently-launched lower priced range, DJ by Dominic Jones. “I wanted to make something that all my friends could afford,” he said when asked about the gold-plated and bright enamel collection of baubles, which average about $100 apiece.
London is not short on young designer initiatives, and as fashion week approaches, the city begins to highlight its top up-and-comers. Today, the London-based Centre for Fashion Enterprise’s New Fashion Ventures program has awarded three ambitious new labels with sponsorship: Teatum Jones (launched by designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones in 2010), Fyodor Golan (designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman and also launched in 2010) and Marques’ Almeida, which, designed by Central Saint Martins alums Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, was launched in 2011 (an image from their Spring ’13 collection is pictured left). Having shown under Fashion East for their first two seasons, Marques’ Almedia—best known for its frayed, grunge-inspired denim looks—has also earned coveted NEWGEN sponsorship for the past two seasons. Founded in 2003, the Center for Fashion Enterprise has helped jumpstart the careers of designers like Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, and Erdem Moralioglu—that’s to say, the brands they champion have a pretty good track record. This season, the program will provide its chosen talents with business and PR support, as well as a studio space for the next two. Thus far, the scheme has helped over 200 emerging talents and awarded about $7.8 million in funding. Keep an eye out for CFE’s Fall ’13 picks, which will show at London Fashion Week this February.