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August 29 2014

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3 posts tagged "The Met"

What’s Old Is Now: Byronesque Debuts Its Latest Vintage Lineup

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Alaia Alaia“There’s a lot of ugly vintage out there,” said Byronesque founder Gill Linton. “I look at some vintage stores, and I’m like, ‘This is trash. It’s not fashion. There’s no story behind it. And you’re giving it such a bad name.’” You won’t find any of that rubbish on Linton’s website, which she launched in 2012 with the help of Marvin Traub Associates and Theory’s Andrew Rosen. As a die-hard vintage addict (and frequent Byronesque browser), I can personally attest to the fact that Linton only sells the crème de la crème of previously loved designer clothes and that Byronesque is the prime source of authentic vintage—i.e., clothes over twenty years old—on the Web. Byronesque is a veritable vault of lust-worthy vintage wares by the likes of Azzedine Alaïa, Vivienne Westwood, Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and more. So naturally, when Linton invited me to a private viewing of the latest additions to the site—which will be available to stylists for shoots for the first time—last week, I scurried on over.

Buyers from the Met had beat me to the event and scooped up an original 1920s frock, an authentic 1980s Yohji Yamamoto bustle coat (famously snapped by Nick Knight), a rare white crucifix-embellished Alaïa, and a sculptural black-and-white Issey Miyake gown. “I do love when they go to good homes,” Linton said of the museum’s purchases. The Met’s interest in Linton’s finds is a testament to her well-trained eye and standout merchandise. And despite the museum’s informed acquisitions, there was still much in the collection to gawk at. A custom-made Alexander McQueen three-piece men’s suit (complete with his signature lock of hair), an almost uptown-apropos lemon Galliano frock (“Though you wouldn’t see quite this much fashion tit on the Upper East Side,” laughed Linton), and a 1990s warrior-inspired Comme des Garçons ensemble comprise just a sampling of what’s available. “This is what we call contemporary vintage,” explained Linton. “It’s different from being classic—classic is safe. But it’s relevant and wearable today, and nobody’s going to say you look like an extra in Downton Abbey or an Austin Powers movie.” To wit, one of Linton’s colleagues turned up to the soiree wearing shorts by Rick Owens, which were the spitting image of the vintage Armani “Wigger Shorts” that hung on the rack next to him.

Issey MiyakeChanel

Many of the most covetable pieces, like a serious supermodel-era neon tweed bra, shorts, and jacket by Chanel; the abovementioned Issey Miyake look; a cracked leather McQueen coat; a sea foam tulle Yves Saint Laurent dress; and an iconic leopard-print Alaïa frock, are courtesy of two singular women: model Irina Pantaeva and pop star Cristina Monet. The former was a muse to Miyake, and was actually photographed by Irving Penn wearing the gown purchased by the Met. The latter was a post-punk music maven with a miniature waist and impeccable taste. Their clothes have stories behind them—not only because they were designed by icons, but because of the life these women gave them. And that life, along with the garments’ superior aesthetic and quality, is what Linton is selling. “I really want people to feel excited about these clothes and their past,” Linton told us. After thumbing through this selection, it’s hard not to be.

Byronesque’s latest offering will be available on the website next week, but to reserve your favorite piece ahead of the pack, e-mail personalshopper@byronesque.com.

Photo: Courtesy of Byronesque 

Reunited, And It Feels So Good

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“If you don’t have a high school or college reunion, this is your reunion,” model Alva Chinn told Style.com yesterday at the Met. (Hers was far more glamorous than ours: Jason Wu, Isabel and Ruben Toledo, Donna Karan, and Iman all stopped by.)

Chinn and her “classmates”—from left, Amina Warsuma, Norma Jean Darden, Pat Cleveland, Charlene Dash, Chinn, China Machado, Billie Blair, and Bethann Hardison, with Stephen Burrows, center —were honored yesterday at a luncheon hosted by the Costume Institute to celebrate their victory in one of the greatest fashion face-offs ever, the 1973 Grand Divertissement à Versailles.

The epochal runway show pitted American designers (including Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and the luncheon’s co-hosts, Oscar de la Renta and Stephen Burrows) against French greats (like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, and Emanuel Ungaro) to raise money for the restoration of Versailles. But it also served as American fashion’s coming-out party, one which proved the U.S. could hold its own against France. “We were all worried [whether] we would look good at Versailles,” de la Renta said. “We could have never imagined that we would look that good.”

But if it was a watershed moment for American design, it was a landmark moment for models, too: The show featured African-American women on a European runway for practically the first time. Karan, who was a “very pregnant assistant” to Anne Klein at the time, credits them for the U.S. success. “What Versailles did was put us on the map,” she told the audience. “It had nothing to the designers, we just clothed them—it was the girls sitting in this room.”

As the girls of ’73 stood up to accept their awards, they were applauded by the likes of Iman and Veronica Webb, both of whom followed in their footsteps. “There’s so many people that helped me get my start in fashion here today,” Webb said. “Bethann taught me how to walk!”

Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

Love, (Old) Italian Style

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Proving that an obsession with marriage and weddings is hardly a recent phenomenon, the Met’s Art and Love in Renaissance Italy exhibit opens tomorrow with 150 objects, including one of the earliest known diamond wedding rings, and paintings from Titian, Botticelli, and Lorenzo Lotto that all revolve around the subject of romance and nuptials. Is there a direct line from these works to The Bachelor or Who Wants to Marry a Multi-Millionaire? We doubt it. On a similar note: It’s also highly unlikely that there’s a word in old Italian for bridezilla. Click here for a sneak-peek slideshow.

Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art