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August 31 2014

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11 posts tagged "The Next Big Thing Fall ’14"

The Next Big Thing: Telfar, Fall ’14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month rolls on, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

TELFAR A/W 2014 RUNWAY SHOW

Label: Telfar, by Telfar Clemens

Need to know: The theme was “Extremely Normal” at menswear designer Telfar Clemens’ art-star-heavy New Museum show yesterday afternoon. By “normal,” he meant “pretty much like Midtown, the mall…kind of normal things”—the street style of the 9-to-5 masses, if you will. One look at his oversize, manipulated micro-suede hoodies; khaki-styled front-slit bell-bottoms; and elongated, almost clinical mid-thigh-length white coats and it became clear: This collection may be inspired by normal, but it’s not for the average Joe. (But perhaps one only needed to look at the front row, which included Boy Child and the ever-downtown-ubiquitous ATL Twins, to realize that.) An Ugg-like pale brown leather boot cut into three portions and held together by looped up detachable pieces underlined the everyman motif—just adjust for height, take off a piece, pull a tie, or add a link. Any man (or, as Clemens highlighted through the use of two female models, woman) can wear these with a little adaptation. As in the case of the creations of his HBA pal, Clemens’ apparel was largely genderless in nature. The proportions were large—shorts were roomy and hit below mid-calf, dresses were high-necked and loose fit, revealing little of the body. A subtle palette of navys, earthy reds, and muddy browns kept the tone controlled. There’s no need for crazy colors when you toe that fine line between challenging and celebrating the presumably blasê or everyday. The only complaint came in the form of one editor’s rather cheeky hope and suggestion: It would be nice if Clemens had more money so everything wasn’t made out of Snuggies. Yes, a switch in materials wouldn’t be the worst move in elegance—but don’t those slacks look comfortable?

He says: “I’m really inspired by kind of normal things. That’s why we named this installation ‘Extremely Normal.’ You know? Cause it’s like if I was in Kmart, this is how I would do it…Luckily enough, they partnered with us to do this. Really cool.”

Where to find it: Opening Ceremony, VFiles, and coming soon…Kmart.

Photo: Angela Pham/BFAnyc.com

The Next Big Thing: Highland, Fall ’14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

highlandLabel: Highland, designed by Lizzie Owens and Cramer Tolboe

Need to know: Vintage outerwear-inspired menswear brand Highland looked to the instability of climate change for its outing, which marked its first show at Milk Studios. Its sophisticated-meets-stoner looks were rooted in old-school Patagonia styles and West Coast outdoorsy interpretations of urban survival gear. A thick wool updated anorak with zip-off sleeves and a full hood took center stage, while pants—thin cotton slacks, long johns meant for layering on chilly Polar Vortex days—and a coat made from recycled North Face fleeces filled out the collection. There were hints of a relaxed Utah dude vibe (see: the oversize tees, in particular a rescue-orange Donning shirt), but by and large, the range was more of a grown-up, effortless-but-still-tailored variety. Here’s a deeply wearable collection—for the great outdoors or, more likely perhaps, the Brooklyn jungle.

They say: “It’s a bit like encounters of the ends of the earth,” explained Tolboe of their arctic rescue mission/apocalyptic earth presentation theme. “It’s got our street-style vibe. We kind of have arctic gangbangers.” Owens added, “We wanted it to be like a state of emergency. We wanted it to be sort of abrasive.”

Where to find it: Opening Ceremony, Steven Alan, Owen.

Photo: Thomas Kletecka for Collective Edit

The Next Big Thing: Baja East Fall ’14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Baja East

Label: Baja East, designed by Scott Studenberg and John Targon

Need to know: The Baja East boys couldn’t have timed their NYFW debut better. Their Spring stock, which they showed to retailers last October, has finally hit stores, and they have a New York fashion week window at Barneys to boot. Studenberg and Targon, who come from luxury sales backgrounds (the former worked at Lanvin, the latter at Burberry and Céline) aren’t the fast-talking, highfalutin types. They’re casual and cool, the perfect spokesmen for their unisex label that’s equal parts beach bum and city chic.

For Fall, they’ve expanded their knitwear to include sumptuous cashmere knits and drop cotton tees. Harder elements, like tough luxe leathers, leopard pony hair, distressed flannels, and oxidized metal details, were combined with softer silk crepes, baja maxis, jacquard tunics, and cotton khadis to complete their collection of approximately eighty pieces, all inspired by social tribes. “There’s definitely a more aggressive stance, a little bit more of the urban jungle,” Studenberg said. “And then we go back to really soft, beautiful sunset colors in our cashmeres and cottons.”

Everything is made in New York or Los Angeles and worn effortlessly in its “travel, pack, and go” spirit. Stylist Karen Kaiser also helped the duo to develop edgy leather chokers and bracelets, all of which featured cultured Australian pearls. Total outfits were swapped among the girls and guys to showcase their versatility for both him and her, while graffiti ikat-print beanies and black Nikes completed looks. “It’s back to this whole luxe loungewear idea, where you can be at home or on the beach,” Targon said. “It’s personal time, and that’s the biggest luxury for most people.”

They say: “We would love to have our own Baja East stores!” Studenberg remarked of their future plans. Targon added, “We definitely want to do bags next, and shoes later…but it’s only the two of us doing everything, so we need a team to do anything more than this.”

Where to find it: Barneys New York, Jeffrey, and Kirna Zabête in New York; The Webster in Miami; A’maree’s in Newport Beach, Calif.; and Maxfield in Los Angeles, among others.

Photos: Courtesy Photos

The Next Big Thing: 5:31 Jérôme Fall ’14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

5:31 Jérôme

Label: 5:31 Jérôme, by Jérôme LaMaar

Need to know: When he set out to design his second collection, Jérôme LaMaar channeled a huntress. He said he wanted to design bold, colorful clothes for a strong, feminine woman. In a palette of fuchsia, raspberry, deep sienna, and rich eggplant, LaMaar’s clothes made a statement. But he kept in mind how women want to dress right now. We want something easy.

Mixed materials, intricate seams, and hidden zippers are becoming LaMaar’s signatures, but his focus on tailoring (honed during an apprenticeship with Ralph Rucci) meant everything looked sharp and refined. LaMaar consciously didn’t include any skirts in the collection, focusing instead on variations of the menswear trouser. Cropped gauchos, silk cargos, and tapered jeans were paired with little mohair sweaters, boxy jackets, and sheer blouses. Silk-and-wool jersey dresses molded to the body, and cocoon coats and sharp blazers were layered on top.

LaMaar’s fabric choices were key to his Fall ’14 success; double-face wool, ponte, silk jersey, suede, alpaca, and rubber were just a few. He played with high-tech materials as well. For instance, there was a utility vest that shifts from olive green to navy blue depending on the temperature. He also used a slick performance fabric for an orchid blazer. It repels water like an anorak, but looks about ten times chicer. For some grit, the designer painted a thick stripe of roughed-up black rubber on the hem of a classic gray blazer—an unexpected and very cool finish. You could see New York’s downtown darlings wearing it over their shoulders with leather pants and high-tops.

He says: “Everything is an evolution from what I did last season—it’s more mature. I want you to wear it,” LaMaar told Style.com. “I love seams, and I love dresses you can wear to work, but with hidden zippers for sex appeal. I also wanted people to see the emphasis on great tailoring; a great pant can go a really long way.”

Where to find it: For more information, visit www.531jerome.com.

The Next Big Thing: Houghton Fall ’14

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Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Houghton

Label: Houghton, designed by Katharine Polk

Need to know: Staying the course, designer Katharine Polk upped the volume for Fall with a collection inspired by Houghton’s perennial muse, silver-screen icon Katharine Hepburn. Not a simple feat—after all, how easy is it to abide by Hepburn’s boyish aesthetic and still win the approval of pretty young things AnnaSophia Robb and Dascha Polanco, both at yesterday’s show? Sure as fire, Polk returned with sweeping silhouettes and cinched-in waists in neutral shades of camel, charcoal, black, and ivory. “There goes my morning wake-up call,” mused Kelly Rowland from the front row. Was it her cell phone alarm or the crowd buzzing?

With in-house production now in place, Polk said that she was finally free to concentrate on draping. The overall mood was of drama and texture, reinforced by the elephant sleeves on gowns and high-waisted trousers with inverted pleating. But the collection’s biggest draw was the trenchcoat—oversized and warm in silk jacquards and mohair. Other notable pieces included Breton-stripe tops, polka-dot dresses in shimmery chiffon, and a hefty motorcycle jacket. A season of menswear classics distilled with a soft, feminine charm is upon us.

She says: “This season was a new kind of voyage,” said Polk. “I really went for a lot of volume.”

Where to find it: Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills, Albright NYC, houghtonnyc.com for inquiries.

Photo: Courtesy of Houghton