5 posts tagged "The Shoe In"
I heard that dreaded kitten heels appeared earlier today at Louis Vuitton. But last night at Alexander McQueen, it was still cobbling to the extreme: sculptural shoes with ten-inch heels. The more hooflike ones reminded me slightly of Balenciaga’s intense platform from several seasons ago. I had actually tried those on, and they were quite secure until I tripped on the fashion closet floor and nearly broke my ankle. At McQueen, these were almost literally works of art, some sculpted to look like the fossils of ancient yet alien sea creatures. Others had a cool, old-school robotic thing happening with pieces of metal screwed together. They’re amazing to look at, but would you buy them to wear or display in your living room?
The Kaiser has spoken, and evidenced from yesterday’s Chanel show, the word is clogs. While I myself love them, they can be a bit awkward to actually walk in and somewhat “Hey guys, wait up!” when it comes to cruising quickly on your feet through city streets. But really, what’s going on here? What was once reserved for surgeons in the O.R. and argumentative vegans has just been elevated to a new level. Is this Crocs crossover? Well, never mind, either way. If it’s good enough for Karl, bring it on. I mean, even the brides in that show were rocking a towering wooden platform. And remember that fringed and tasseled version last month at Alexander Wang? If you need to get your clog on now, check out this space-age winterized version from No. 6, a logo-laden stiletto from Gucci, or a braided style from the usual suspect, Frye. What do you think? Are you ready to bring back the clog?
It seems like just yesterday that I railed against the murky statement of the kitten heel that I saw on midtown tourists all summer long. But, if yesterday in Milan is any evidence, the look may have legs.
Yes, there were some tiny little heels at Marni, including a pair inspired by those navy rubber sandals from Chinatown. But not all was on the down low. Sling-back sandal boots—a seemingly new element to this persistent hybrid—and Mary Jane sandals both had high platforms.
The kitten caboodle continued at Missoni with these braided strappy, straight-outta-Ibiza sandals. Somehow with these, one must ask, why not just make them flat? Even a haute hippie doesn’t really want to mince around on a wee heel.
Dolce & Gabbana’s masculine-feminine journey meant flat velvet slippers and lace-up oxfords and their polar opposite: femme-fatale heels inset with fishnet leather to look like naughty ankle socks. The only kittens here were, of course, the corseted sex kittens who closed the show.
Yesterday in Milan, there was a kind of study in opposites. Bottega Veneta’s (ultrachic) casual walk in the park versus Gucci’s stomp in a vaguely futuristic cityscape.
First, Bottega Veneta. As the Lord of Low-Key Luxe, Tomas Maier has never gone ridiculously Ricci-esque in his footwear. But we take these gently crafty wedges and nearly horizontal platforms as further evidence that we might not be using words like “sick” and “killer” to talk about shoes all that much in seasons to come. (See Exhibit A: Marc Jacobs Spring 2010.) Our own Sarah Mower praised their “sophisticated take on country-peasant craftsmanship.” Hear, hear.
An espadrille might work for the Gucci girl when she’s in hippie mode, but she most certainly wasn’t yesterday. For Spring’s modern motorcycle mama, Frida Giannini did killer—no other word for it— platform sandals, either race-car sleek or with little sporty embellishments. And for the girl who considers herself a latter-day Barbarella: a strap-happy, knee-high sandal boot.
When you’re sitting at a runway show, even in the front row, the starring role often goes to the clothes. But let’s talk about the all-important action below the ankle with our first installment of The Shoe In.
Prada gave us a literal moment of clarity with clear-heel sandals dripping with fat chandelier crystals, and her see-through pointy-toe Mary Janes. One totally clear pair looked like the footwear version of Wonder Woman’s invisible jet. Their practicality is somewhat arguable, but they do seem to have handy Velcro closures.
Yesterday at Jil Sander, Raf Simons’ arty inspirations made the most sense in shoe form, like this sculptural number crafted from wood, oxidized metal, and chic navy suede. Blow that thing up 1,000 times and you could send it to Storm King.
And lastly there was Versace’s glam-slam journey down a Tim Burton rabbit hole that gave us this nutty futuro-baroque number. What do you think of Milan’s shoe scene so far? Comments welcome below.