20 posts tagged "The Webster"
Virgil Abloh’s career to date has conspired to put him in the periphery of the spotlight. As one of the creative directors who works with Kanye West, the Chicago-raised designer plays a key role in creating tour merchandise, pop-up stores, and West’s shows. He collaborates on graphics for the cult streetwear label Hood by Air. And last year, on 12/12/12, he launched Pyrex Vision, an ultra-limited line of logo-fied T-shirts and shorts that sold out nearly immediately at every store they arrived at, from Colette, in Paris, to VFiles, in New York. Abloh’s name is well-known to a few overlapping groups of hip-hop and streetwear obsessives—he is part of the Been Trill collective, with Matthew Williams and Heron Preston, as well as part of Donda, the creative arm of West’s entourage and enterprise—but he’s eluded wider recognition. That is, potentially, until now.
Abloh is preparing to launch Off-White, a streetwear-meets-fashion line that builds on, and expands upon, Pyrex Vision. Pyrex Vision was comprised of third-party merchandise, such as Champion T-shirts, screen-printed with Abloh-designed graphics; Off-White will be a full cut-and-sew line, made in Italy. “Streetwear has a one-trick-ponyness to it,” Abloh says. “I want to give my point of view and merge street sensibilities in a proper fashion context. I think that if I can merge the two, it’ll make something interesting.”
The first collection, for Spring, is largely based on Abloh’s graphics: a motif of parallel lines, crossing over a “WHITE 13″ logo. (On the name, he says only: “It’s just a bucket for me to put my thoughts into.” The graphic element was inspired by the geometric lines of Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House near Chicago, an inspiration point for the entire collection. Abloh trained as an engineer and an architect before coming to West and, by extension, to fashion.) There are jeans and chinos in unbleached canvas, cut wide through the thigh and skinny in the leg; inflated A-line flannels; and perforated mesh shorts. The clothes have a broken-in, occasionally pulverized look, a far cry from the pristine crispness that’s often prized in streetwear. “It’s not so much about brand-new. It’s about the washed nature of clothes, the relaxedness. That’s what I love, to bring a Ralph [Lauren] take back into streetwear. Streetwear is generally brand-new. It’s fresh out of the box, you wear it once, it becomes trendy, then you get rid of it.” The inspirations he rhapsodizes over are not necessarily predictable ones. “I have this deep infatuation with Montauk and Martha Stewart and Nantucket,” he says. “My parents are from Ghana, and I grew up in Chicago, but for some reason, this lifestyle, shabby chic—it’s grown [on me] since I got older.” The Off-White bag is an updated beach bag; the one shoe made to date is a mesh espadrille. “Outside of the sneaker conversation, I think, is much more interesting,” he says. “No one in the hood is wearing espadrilles.” Continue Reading “Exclusive: Kanye West’s Creative Consigliere Virgil Abloh Launches His Own Fashion Label, Off-White” »
“There’s this sort of mad dash to go from one event to the other,” said Eddie Borgo of Art Basel in Miami Beach. “But that’s not really my style.” What is his beat, however, is splitting his time between the art scene and the street—a testament to his high/low sensibility that’s sure to translate to his Basel capsule collection for The Webster. The range, which debuts exclusively here, will launch on December 4—Basel, day one, naturally.
“The pieces that we ended up rethinking for the collaboration are things that Laure [Heriard Dubreuil, The Webster's owner] wears, or would wear,” said Borgo. And while he’s built a name on selling geometric baubles at relatively accessible price points, this lineup delivers a bit more of a glitzy kick: Each item is plated in “blonde” gold and handset with smoked pavé crystals. “The choker has something like three thousand or thirty-five hundred of them,” he said.
As for how to weather the Basel storm, Borgo offered a few pointers: “I like to keep it a little bit casual. I’ll go to Soho Beach House and have lunch at Cecconi’s. But then, I’ll go down to Fifth Street to eat Haitian food, or over to West Avenue—there’re lots of cool little restaurants. It’s got more of a local scene.” To kill time, he suggests “visiting the home stores in the Design District,” a revitalized grid just north of Miami proper’s Midtown area (and where LVMH has relocated many of its outposts from nearby Bal Harbour). But the key to a successful Basel outing? “Know where you’re going.”
Eddie Borgo x The Webster ranges from $350 to $1,250.
The streetwise French-born designer Julien David has been on a hot streak lately, scooping up the Andam Fashion Award in 2012 and enjoying the kind of die-hard, tell-your-friends support from retailers like Colette’s Sarah Andelman and The Webster’s Laure Heriard Dubreuil that fellow designers would give their eyeteeth for. His latest coup is the opening of his first-ever boutique, in the Jingumae neighborhood of his adopted city, Tokyo—and, just in case you needed the reaffirmation, he’s stamped the concrete facade with “Julien David Jingumae Shop.” “I believe every location has a certain vibe,” David explained to Style.com. “I would like each of my stores to have its own characteristics, music, and atmosphere, and offer customers a unique, genuine experience in different locations. To show how this specific area is different than another one, how things are here, and what we think about and enjoy locally.” Inside, there are fixtures in glass, metal, concrete, and Japanese wood, finished off with a dripping splatter of paint. “I wanted to invent a place that would be the best environment to experience my collections, to have the same playfulness and urban raw energy that we try to inject in the clothes,” David said. Not far from the shopping meccas of Omotesando and Harajuku, he has built a room of his own.
“It’s always fun to work with friends,” said Illesteva’s Daniel Silberman and Jus Ske. The CFDA-nominated designers’ affinity for creative camaraderie has led them to team up with magazine maven, purveyor of cool, and new mother Dasha Zhukova for a second round of collaborative, limited-edition sunglasses. “I’ve been a fan of what Jus Ske and Daniel are doing with Illesteva for a long time now,” said the Garage editor. “To be able to creatively collaborate with them on a project has been an amazing experience.” Priced at $300, the acetate shades—handcrafted en France—come in baby pink or sky blue and are available now at The Webster, Colette, and on Illesteva’s Web site.
Last year, Miami-based footwear label Del Toro introduced its Artists Series—a range of in-house capsules created in collaboration with local artists. For its upcoming project, the brand tapped TYPOE—a provocative street artist known for his depiction of urban undergrounds and pseudo celebrity. “We are very like-minded,” said TYPOE when asked about the collaborative process. A fusion of TYPOE’s pop-modern aesthetics and Del Toro’s traditional-with-a-twist ethos, the shoes feature a floral motif messily printed across the house’s signature wing-tip silhouette. “[TYPOE's] style of mixing classic and contemporary is something I feel strongly about—enhancing the heritage per se,” said Matthew Chevallard, Del Toro’s CEO and creative director.
The kicks will debut at Laure Heriard Dubreuil’s The Webster on April 26. And just to make the launch a little more special, TYPOE and Del Toro have designed a small selection of Webster-specific shoes, which will be stamped with hues mirroring the South Beach retail mecca’s tropical color scheme.
Del Toro x TYPOE’s shoes are priced at $350 and will be available at The Webster and deltoroshoes.com from April 26.