4 posts tagged "Thea Bregazzi"
On February 15, Phaidon Press will release Pattern, a book that highlights one hundred compelling fashion designers on the rise. Phaidon handed over the book’s curatorial duties to a group of ten designers and industry insiders (including stylist Keegan Singh, Preen’s Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, the SHOWstudio team, and Business of Fashion‘s founder Imran Amed, just to name a few), each of whom chose ten talents to fill Pattern‘s pages.
The book (which is a follow-up to the 2005 fashion tome SAMPLE) features established designers (Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, Sarah Burton), well-known emerging labels (Eddie Borgo, Thomas Tait, Creatures of the Wind, Mary Katrantzou, whose work is pictured above), and proper newbies (Simone Rocha, Marques’ Almeida, Phoebe English, Maarten van der Horst). The designers’ diverse aesthetics, techniques and outlooks are presented via detailed introductions, backstage, campaign and editorial photographs, and never-before-seen sketches, all of which serve to give readers an in-depth understanding of their work. “For me, seeing that the designers had a consistent point of view that’s true to their style was important,” said Singh, whose picks include Cushnie et Ochs (left), Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, Tabitha Simmons, Dominic Jones, and Gianvito Rossi, among others. “You know, it’s like Azzedine Alaïa. He has his thing, and he always sticks to it,” he added. So does Singh think the next Alaïa is somewhere between Pattern‘s covers? “It’s a possibility!” he laughed. At the very least, he notes, “the book gives the young designers a chance to reach broader audiences; it exposes them to a whole new group of people.”
Pattern: 100 Fashion Designers, 10 Curators will be available on February 15, on phaidon.com.
Womenswear has been borrowing more and more from menswear of late, and for their latest collection, Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi went after big game, sartorially speaking: They’ve commissioned tailoring from the historic Savile Row house Gieves & Hawkes, which has until now only produced menswear. According to G&H head of design Frederik Willems, the Preen garments were built off menswear blocks and reworked to female-friendly specs. Preen is planning to feature six to eight of the collaborative pieces (like the preview sketch, left) at tomorrow’s show, accessorized with the womanliest of womenswear: Nicholas Kirkwood shoes.
Some brands are tortoises. Others are hares. Preen is incontrovertibly—and in the best way possible—the former. Over the past dozen years, Preen designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton have taken an incrementalist approach as they’ve gone from hawking togs at the Portobello Arcade to selling out their Power dress on Net-a-Porter. Now the designers are making the leap into accessories, launching a range of bags for Spring 2009. True to their tortoise-y nature, however, Bregazzi and Thornton are getting ahead, rather than getting ahead of themselves: There are a modest four styles in Preen’s debut bag collection, all of which have been snapped up by Selfridges and Harrods in the U.K. (They’ll also be available at forwardfoward.com and ASOS.com.) “Our intention is to expand the range slowly,” says Thornton. “We’ll be adding a few extra styles for Fall, but we really hope to keep things tight.” The focus for now, he adds, is on playing with the bags’ fabrications and finishes and thinking about ways to update details on the Quatro (pictured above at left), $750, and the Roxy (on the right), $538, the two styles that will be recurring staples. Not that Bregazzi and Thornton don’t have a little time left over for plotting Preen’s next move. “Shoes,” says Thornton. “But we’ve got to build on the bags first.” Slow and steady wins the race.
It’s been a very good year for Preen’s Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton. First, we noticed that both their main collection and commercial Preen Line have quietly become It girl and celebrity staples. It started in April with Gwyneth Paltrow showing off her gorgeous gams in a black Power Bandage dress, a perennial Preen style, during her Iron Man publicity tour. And in short order came more fabulous credits on Anne Hathaway, Leigh Lezark, Chloë Sevigny, Karolina Kurkova, Mandy Moore, and Sienna Miller. Most recently, Fabiola Beracasa wore their Frances dress to Aid for AIDS earlier this month; Cindy Crawford was spotted in the Band dress (Spring’s finale look) last weekend at a Darfur fundraiser in London; and Bond girl Gemma Arterton repeated Gwyneth’s Iron appearance stitch for stitch in a black Power Bandage at the British Academy Children’s Awards. (You can compare and contrast in the image at left.) Second, when we called their PR to confirm all of the above, we learned that the design duo’s first ever resort collection, made exclusively for Net-a-Porter, is close to selling out. (Although for those of you who want to work a Gwyneth or Gemma, there are still a few Power Bandage frocks left in stock, in black and a special Resort-only hot pink.) A good year, indeed.