12 posts tagged "Theory"
When Barneys New York founded its Co-Op levels and stores in 1985, they were, as Style.com editor in chief Dirk Standen put it to the store’s Julie Gilhart, “in the vanguard of the mix-and-match approach.” “We never thought of Co-Op as a place where you find secondary collections,” Gilhart demurred. “It’s a place where you find something different.” Different as in not seen before (but almost always seen after) in other stores—and different, according to many designers whose careers Co-Op has nurtured, as in making all the difference to the fledgling businesses. “We are so happy the Co-Op exists to expose small brands,” Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai said recently. They’re not so small anymore. Phillip Lim agrees. Co-Op, he enthuses, “is like the A&R people of the fashion industry: They are the first to discover and support young talent.” That young talent is giving back for its 25th anniversary, offering exclusive products in stores and online. They include (left to right) a soft cowl-neck dress from Wayne, a cloud-print shirt dress from Vena Cava, and a fur-hood anorak from Theory that’s perfect for the cold weather soon to come.
A solid three-point plan to upmarket your brand: 1) Begin introducing more luxurious products into your office-friendly line. 2) Sign on Olivier Theyskens to do something, anything. And 3) Bring in a footwear expert to design hot new styles, from lace-up booties to cap-toed platform spectator heels.
That’s the Theory plan, and so far, it’s working. The label’s offerings are looking better season after season (Bergdorf’s Linda Fargo is raving about its glamorous and comparative inexpensive fur coat for fall), and Theyskens’ collection for the brand is on deck. But before the former Rochas and Nina Ricci phenom tries his hand, there are the shoes. Several styles launch tomorrow on Theory’s Web site, all for under $600. There’s a lace-up bootie in leather or charcoal flannel, a cutout take on the hot-again pump, and a chunky sling-back we wouldn’t be surprised to see a lot more of in the coming weeks. Who to thank for all of these? The brand’s design team and a certain much-followed private designer. No names, but you never know—she might just hit the shows sporting one of her own creations. If that’s the case, we’d advise buying now, before they sell immediately out.
Leather lace-up bootie, $595, and suede sling-back, $415, available tomorrow at www.theory.com.
The designer merry-go-round keeps on spinning. Much-missed Olivier Theyskens will design a capsule collection for Theory, and Christophe Lemaire, formerly of Lacoste, will take over for the departing Jean Paul Gaultier (pictured) at Hermès. [WWD; NYT]
Changes are brewing in the world of menswear, too. Daiki Suzuki, the Japanese-born designer of Engineered Garments, will step down as creative director of the Americana label Woolrich Woolen Mills; the blogger-adored Mark McNairy will take over there. [WWD]
Louise, we hardly knew ye. Louise J. Esterhazy, the alter ego of John Fairchild, will retire her society column in W under Stefano Tonchi’s new editorship. “Louise,” over the years, brought us such salty musings as “You could reply that’s frivolous in this troubled world, but do you really think dressing like an existential nun with suicidal thoughts is going to solve Bosnia?” [Page Six]
Helmut Lang alum and knitwear designer Tobias Wong of Wong Wong is teaming up with Happy Socks for a series of World Cup styles. Just another reason to get in the mood for the World Cup. [Racked]
And you’ve already seen Louis Vuitton’s London opening bacchanal through the eyes of Derek Blasberg; now see it through the eyes—er, eye—of monocular cartoon correspondent Darcel, of the great blog Darcel Disappoints. Keep your eye peeled for a cartoonified Peter Marino, too. [Nowness]