28 posts tagged "Thierry Mugler"
If you’ve ever fallen hard for a piece of high-fashion costume jewelry, chances are good that it has passed through Edgard Hamon. Founded in 1919, the atelier was the first to create belts for Chanel, and decades later, it was the first to thread strips of leather through metal chains.
Today, the Edgard Hamon archives scan like a who’s who of couture’s glory days: Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Chanel, Givenchy, Thierry Mugler, Balenciaga, and Christian Lacroix have all called on Edgard Hamon at some point.
Which is why Lacroix, along with Elie Top, Paris Vogue jewelry editor Franceline Prat, and various other experts all gathered today at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Their mission was to elect the winners of the two first-ever Edgard Hamon awards: the Edgard Hamon Prize for Costume Jewellery, which goes to a designer under 30 years old who has worked in fashion jewelry in France, and the 3,000-euro Edgard Hamon Future Hope Prize for Costume Jewellery, which goes to a student in his or her last year at a European school of fashion.
The contestants were challenged to design pieces based on the work of a chosen architect, and tonight, Style.com can exclusively reveal the winners. Century Xie took the 15,000-euro Edgard Hamon Prize for Costume Jewellery, and Yao Yu won the Edgard Hamon Future Hope Prize for Costume Jewellery.
“We had a great time, they were incredibly creative,” said Lacroix of the selection process. “It was really beautiful. Many of them referenced Gaudí or Prouvé, for example. And many of them were influenced by Elie [Top].”
Top, the self-taught talent behind Lanvin’s fabulous baubles, replied that he was flattered to hear it. “Everyone’s always talking about bags and shoes, but costume jewelry really deserves attention. It’s so closely linked with fashion’s silhouettes, color, and what you want now—that’s the magic of it. There’s so much more to it than silver and gold.”
Xie’s line will be produced and displayed at Le Bon Marché; Edgard Hamon will produce three of Yu’s prototypes and she will receive an internship. The winners’ collections will be presented at an official ceremony at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on July 4.
Mugler has appointed 28-year-old Georgian-born, London-based designer David Koma as the house’s new artistic director. The Central Saint Martins-trained talent is best known for his sculptural, hyper-feminine silhouettes, which, it’s worth noting, often recall Thierry Mugler’s own aesthetic. Koma, who recently created a series of peplumed bodysuits for Beyoncé’s Mrs. Carter World Tour, plans to continue designing his eponymous line, which he launched in 2009, along with Mugler’s. The designer’s new gig officially starts on January 2, and he’ll debut his first Mugler collection for the Resort ’15 season. Koma succeeds Mugler’s previous creative director, Nicola Formichetti, who left the house in April before signing on as the artistic director of Diesel.
Last year, Gill Linton launched Byronesque.com, a comprehensive Web site that, backed by Andrew Rosen and the late Marvin Traub, offers high-end vintage wares and sharp editorials. The online platform boasts a veritable treasure trove of rare, authenticated vintage designs, like an azure Jean Paul Gaultier frock, an asymmetrical Yohji Yamamoto dress, and a bevy of Thierry Mugler and Alaïa. And while it all looks spectacular in one’s browser, Linton felt she should create an IRL experience with the digital destination’s best stock.
Enter the site’s first brick-and-mortar venture, Byronesque.com//Offline, an exhibition and boutique housed in the dilapidated annex of the James A. Farley Post Office in New York City. Offline is complete with video installations, melancholic wall art by Craig Ward, and a vault of approximately forty impeccably dressed mannequins. Yesterday evening, insiders gathered to fete the project, which was punctuated with a live Polaroid photography session by the inimitable Michèle Lamy. “It’s difficult to [decide] what is mainstream or not…but being here feels real, and what they are trying to do is very important,” Lamy said of the site.
“There’s so much potential in vintage fashion,” said Linton. “It’s made better, there’s a story behind it, and there’s a history behind it. The way I merchandise the store is through storytelling—there’s a curve of Vivienne Westwood from Pirate to Seditionaries, for example—but it’s not that it has to be a linear progression. It’s about the energy of stuff.”
The stuff on display includes a 1984 John Galliano men’s kimono coat from his graduate Central Saint Martins collection, Les Incroyables (not for sale); a burlap Alexander McQueen look from F/W ’02; a 1986 Azzedine Alaïa leather zip dress; and a Katharine Hamnett allover marijuana-leaf-print bodysuit.
Glenn O’Brien lent his support by co-hosting the affair. “Everybody mixes vintage in,” he said, “I can’t tell you how long I’ve had this Kilgour, French, & Stanbury coat; it must be twenty years since I bought it at Barneys. Vintage is kind of where the next ideas come from. You can be a step ahead by wearing something that’s so out that it’s just about ready to come back.”
Byronesque.com//Offline will open to the public on December 12 and run through the 15th. Located at the James A. Farley Post Office on Eighth Avenue at West 31st Street, the show will be open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
On Thursday, November 7, famed vintage boutique Resurrection will unveil its first Thierry Mugler capsule in New York City and online. The offering includes pieces from the designer’s eighties and nineties oeuvre. The angle? No “crazy shoulders.” “I love his big power suits and the exaggerated lines,” Resurrection’s co-owner, Katy Rodriguez, told Style.com. “But this lineup showcases very wearable and modern pieces while still illustrating his signatures.” What she means is: Fans of Mugler’s curved seams and distinct surrealist details won’t be lost for want, thanks, for example, to a tobacco-color leather bomber with sculptural metal cinches at the waist, or an amoeba-shaped mesh inlay along a top, or a black velvet jacket with neon wiring spelling out the designer’s name. It’s all very Thierry, but it’s all very functional.
“The velvet jacket is a little hard for me to let go of,” said Rodriguez. “Years and years ago, a woman walked in and said she had been a model for Mugler—she’d worn it in the show, and he gave it to her afterward. You won’t ever see it again.” Yet Rodriguez also cautions that, at Resurrection, aesthetic trumps provenance. “We’re huge fashion nerds. We buy things based foremost on the quality of the design. Not the name of who owned it.” With that in mind, expect Resurrection to throw it back this Thursday to Mugler’s glory days—with, of course, a 2013 sensibility. Above, check out a selection from the collection, exclusively on Style.com.
Resurrection’s Thierry Mugler capsule will be available beginning November 7 at Resurrection in New York City and online at www.resurrectionvintage.com.
Head-to-toe white has a tendency to look a bit clinical—but not so when it comes to this season’s perforated leather wares. Punctuated, laser-cut leathers in icy hues were spotted all over the Spring ’13 runways. At Proenza Schouler, the technique gave off a sporty techno vibe, while Jonathan Simkhai’s laser-cut floral designs were simultaneously sharp and ladylike. Shop our punchy picks, from Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, and more, below.
1. Jonathan Simkhai shirt, $1,230, available at www.matchesfashion.com.
2. Incase iPad snap case, $24.95, available at goincase.com.
3. Proenza Schouler skirt, $1,959, available at www.mytheresa.com.
4. Thierry Mugler Vintage shoes, $426, available at www.farfetch.com.
5. Alaïa bag, $1,883, available at www.farfetch.com.