28 posts tagged "Thierry Mugler"
Tired of trolling eBay for the perfect vintage find? Perhaps it’s time to switch gears to Byronesque, an online vintage marketplace that combines carefully selected retro-wares (nothing under 20 years old), provocative interviews (Boy George is currently on the site with Vivienne Westwood and Julie Gilhart coming soon), and high-styled editorials. Launched in October by Gill Linton and backed by heavyweights like Theory CEO Andrew Rosen and Marvin Traub Associates, the site features covetable pieces like a YSL Rive Gauche skirt from the late seventies, and eighties looks from Thierry Mugler (left), Alaïa, and Chanel. Sourcing items from acclaimed vintage shops like New York’s New World Order and London’s One of a Kind, Byronesque also offers a personal shopping feature to help hunt down those hard-to-find pieces, as well as a subscription-only archive called The Back Room for designers in search of a little inspiration. Naturally, this kind of vintage bliss doesn’t run cheap (pieces run between $295 and just over $5,000—it might be back to eBay for those bargains after all). But if you’re going to splurge, it may as well be on a little piece of history.
You may not know Emmanuel Aubry’s name, but you’ve definitely seen his work. Throughout the eighties, the French jeweler was the hand behind Thierry Mugler’s outrageous accessories, like metal stilettos, gloves, and corsets. “Back then, fashion was a business, but it was just so much fun,” he recalls. “We were serious about what we did, but we never took ourselves too seriously. Things have changed since then.” His follow-up gig was a complete about-face, creating costume jewelry for Christian Lacroix. When the house shuttered, Aubry put himself on hiatus. His baubles, however, had other plans; the designer’s one-off accessories cropped up on the runway at Bouchra Jarrar and Alexandre Vauthier.
Earlier this year, Aubry resolved it was time for a comeback and launched A Fine Jewel, a streamlined collection of limited-edition jewelry. “My idea was to return to luxury in its original sense: something that’s finely made, discreet, and personal, something that you don’t see everywhere.” That might be a delicate gold chain with asymmetrical knots, a new twist on diamond studs, or the 38-carat cushion-cut smoked quartz necklace that’s already been snapped up by several style-setting Parisiennes (he also does private commissions, giving new life to heirlooms or creating one-offs). Aubrey usually works by appointment-only, but, just in time for the holidays, the designer is showcasing his wares in a pop-up shop in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. His price tags are less shocking then those in Place Vendôme (where he’s also done time), but luxury doesn’t come cheap. Rings run around $500, while more lavish pieces go up to $2,900.
Emmanuel Aubry’s pop-up is located at 9 Victor Hugo in the 16th arr., open Tuesday-Saturday afternoons through December 24.
In Manhattan, where a walk-in closet is a covetable luxury, finding the space to house over 50,000 garments and accessories is no small feat. Over the course of several years, that’s exactly what the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) has managed to do. Now, a hand-picked selection of looks are coming out of storage for two consecutive exhibitions, The Great Designers: Part One (opened yesterday) and Part Two, along with a pair of books to match (due out next year).
“For the general public it’s going to be the big names—Armani, Chanel, Dior—that are the attraction, but personally, I’m really excited about the opportunity it gave us to build out our contemporary collection,” Valerie Steele, the museum’s director and chief curator, said at the press preview of the Part One exhibition (co-curated by Jennifer Farley and Colleen Hill) this morning. Of the tomes, highlighting 500 looks by 100 designers from the twentieth century onward, Steele added, “I have wanted to do a book for the museum with Taschen for a long time, ever since they did a fantastic publication for the Kyoto Costume Institute.”
Both the exhibitions and books gave Steele a fun excuse to “shop”—two of the most exciting purchases are a black wool coat with delicate gold embroidery from Alexander McQueen’s Fall 1997 collection for Givenchy and a liquid silver Thierry Mugler mermaid dress from 1987. Part One features approximately 50 garments from several generations of designers. It was surprising to see how easily current looks by designers like Prada (a black and baby blue guipure lace and cotton frock from the memorable Fall 2008 collection) blended with early-twentieth-century pieces. The black Paul Poiret silk faille coat from 1908, trimmed with fine black and gold fringe that doubled for fur at a distance, is great for today’s pelt-wary. An Elsa Schiaparelli gown in black rayon, cut on the bias and with a swirling flower print, had an asymmetrical shoulder seen on many of the gowns in recent runway seasons.
The Great Designers, Part One at the Museum at FIT, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. On view November 29 to May 8, 2012.
Mugler creative director and Lady Gaga stylist Nicola Formichetti has had a big past couple of days. Last week, he set up shop downtown with his pop-up concept store, Nicola’s; yesterday, he hosted a presentation for nine emerging Chinese designers in an effort to celebrate international talent; this afternoon, Formichetti (who has worked with Uniqlo for over five years and currently stands as the brand’s fashion director) debuts his latest project for the Japanese retailer. He has created a new line, called Uniqlo Innovation Project, along with the company’s designer director, Naoki Takizawa, and creative director, Kashiwa Sato.
“We wanted to create something for the future,” Formichetti tells Style.com. “Something functional, stylish, and new.” The collection of parkas, hoodies, and track pants for men and women, made of cutting-edge materials like Uniqlo’s infamous Heattech, hits stores October 14.
What’s next from Nicola? “I’m actually thinking of bringing Nicola’s to other cities,” he says. “I loved meeting my virtual friends, but in a physical space this time.” Oh yes, and there’s the Mugler collection he’s hard at work on, which hits the runway in Paris September 29. Here, Style.com has the exclusive first look at Innovation Project.