27 posts tagged "Thierry Mugler"
It’s no secret that I’m a major fan of Dasha Zhukova, the Moscow-born, California-raised beauty who has founded a museum, launched a fashion label, and was recently named the new editor of Pop—all before the age of 28. Here in Moscow, I’ve met another Russian stunner who’s a master at multitasking (and, like Zhukova, has a closet full of Balmain). Meet Aizel Trudel. The daughter of a Russian diplomat, Trudel grew up all over the world and developed an obsession with fashion that she’s put to good use: She now operates a collection of stores in Moscow, including two Louboutin shops, two Diane von Furstenberg stores, the Marc Jacobs boutique and another for Marc by Marc, a J. Mendel location, and five Aizel stores of her own, which were the first to stock the likes of Proenza Schouler and Balmain in Russia. And it looks like that’s just the beginning.
How did you get into the fashion business?
I was the head of PR and advertising for a company here in Moscow that worked with Donna Karan, Christian Lacroix, Thierry Mugler, and a slew of other brands, but when I turned 25 I wanted a change. A few years ago my friend Santiago Gonzalez and I went to a party at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, and as I was going down the escalator I saw Christian Louboutin with Diane von Furstenberg going up the other way. I realized that was my chance to meet him, so I ran up the escalator to catch him and started shouting “Christian!” That was the start of our great friendship and business relationship. It was a fruitful meeting because it introduced me to DVF as well.
Continue Reading “Blasblog From Moscow: Meet The City’s Other Chic Entrepreneur” »
Rosemary Rodriguez, the new creative director at Thierry Mugler, told me she knows how to do two things: work from an archive, and host a good presentation. The latter was why she decided to show her first full collection for the label during a three hour, Champagne-filled preview-slash-party Friday night instead of a fashion editor’s more traditional daytime affair. “It’s more important to have fun and enjoy yourself,” Rodriguez explained. “This is fashion, after all.” A little late in the cocktail hour she took me back to her studio, where she keeps her favorite pieces from the archives—standouts included a one-shoulder multicolored striped jumpsuit and a draped, cut-down-to-there dress. “What’s important is not to just remake these pieces,” she said. “What I do is to take a mental image of the piece, and then bring out the good points. The trick is to make a collage of those elements and what is now.” Hence, her collections of pointy-shoulder velvet jackets and handwoven tassel-fringe dresses. Besides, Rodriguez added, “It’s very simple to just remake something that’s already been done. But if you want that, just go buy vintage.”
With Jean-Paul Goude doing the rounds this week and Inès de la Fressange at Gaultier Paris, it seems like a full-on eighties couture revival is upon us. Alexandre Vauthier, former first assistant to Gaultier and a veteran of Thierry Mugler’s atelier, narrowed his vision on Grace Jones. A pointy shoulder formed the main silhouette story and Vauthier took it to extremes, sending out the kind of sharp angles that of course recall the decades-old heyday of Mugler and Gaultier (well, actually, also Gaultier’s current day) as well as the more recent revival kick-started by Martin Margiela. Still, it was somewhat of a time warp. Sessilee Lopez with an ultra-cinched waist and shoulders out to there was pure Grace incarnate. Not that we minded. When it comes to full-on fashion drama, we’re slaves to the rhythm.
By now, most fashion watchers are aware that Beyoncé is a dyed-in-the-graphic-geometric -wool fan of Gareth Pugh and of Thierry Mugler, now that the latter designer will be creative- directing and costuming her upcoming tour. But B’s latest video for her song Diva—which some liken to a reprise of Pugh’s Spring 2009 show —also features the work of 25-year-old designer Brian Lichtenberg. The patchwork bodysuit and matching lace leggings (pictured here) that the designer custom-made for Mrs. Jay-Z also echo his Spring 2009 collection. But Lichtenberg isn’t exactly a newbie when it comes to the wardrobing needs of pop stars. M.I.A. reportedly flipped over his hologram leggings and now owns several pairs; the designer was even an extra in her Bucky Done Gun video. “Beyoncé came up with the idea [of the bodysuit], as she wanted to dance in it for her music video,” explains Lichtenberg. The designer, who shows at L.A. Fashion Week, has an aesthetic that’s futuristic, bold, and graphic—which is, of course, right up Beyoncé’s currently avant-garde fashion alley. Lichtenberg’s collection includes clothing and jewelry in collaboration with L.A.-based accessories duo Alex & Chloe. He has also teamed up with Franc Fernandez on a range of sharply architectural hats (imagine what Grace Jones’ millinery collection would look like), which Beyoncé did wear for Diva, though the segment ended up on the cutting-room floor. For more on Lichtenberg, go to www.brianlichtenberg.com.