65 posts tagged "Thom Browne"
Fetish has long been a favorite fashion influence: Alexander McQueen’s Spring ’98 metal-spine corset, Louis Vuitton’s Fall ’11 Night Porter collection, and Azzedine Alaïa’s iconic eighties bondage dresses come to mind. Considering its prominence over the decades, it’s perhaps no surprise that the trend has surfaced again for Spring ’14, only this time around, it’s a bit more subtle—particularly in the collections that have employed plastic or leather shoulder-length gloves.
Thom Browne turned out an haute American Horror Story: Asylum take on the trend, of sorts, in New York, replete with second-skin white latex options. These mitts featured glued-on nails, which lent a synthetic perverseness to the designer’s vision. In London, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff of Meadham Kirchhoff hit their stride in a mashed-up collection of Jacobean flair and East London kook. Here, too, bicep-brushing gloves appeared (in python, no less). Looser than Browne’s, MK’s proposal suggested something a butcher or welder might don. And in Paris, Jun Takahashi showed a patent black pair at Undercover, which he styled with an anagrammatic top trimmed in a swath of matte black leather. That interplay suggested a charged message: The wearer of these defiant accoutrements is powerful, and entirely uninterested in conformity. Call it sartorial dominance.
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Thom Browne
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Monday, September 9
WHAT: “…Girls are fun…”— Thom Browne. The designer sent us a Spring ’14 sketch, above.
From the runway to the street to the closets of sports stars, the color red has found its way onto the current sartorial playlist, especially—and excitingly—across men’s suiting.
“Red has great energy and signifies a decadence other colors can’t,” Barneys New York’s general merchandise manager and executive vice president Tom Kalenderian told Style.com. “Remember Diana Vreeland’s famous red chinoiserie walls—didn’t she once say, ‘I want this place to look like a garden, but a garden in hell?’” After hearing Vreeland’s take on the hue, who wouldn’t want to wrap himself up in Haider Ackermann‘s ruby-toned sleeveless Spring ’14 waistcoat, Roberto Cavalli‘s oxblood shawl-collared stunner, or Thom Browne‘s cherry-red generalissimo uniforms?
Just off the runway, our intrepid Tommy Ton lensed red peaked-lapel blazers from Firenze to Paris. One fellow stood out in particular, pairing his vermilion jacket with a medium-grade chambray shirt-and-tie combo underneath. And finally, at last week’s ESPY Awards, a number of athletes hot-stepped it down the red carpet in matching wares: Chicago Bears’ wide receiver Brandon Marshall in a Hugh Hefner-esque burgundy smoking jacket; San Francisco 49ers’ quarterback Colin Kaepernick in a simple scarlet sport jacket; and the King himself, the NBA’s LeBron James, in a muted carmine tux whipped up by L.A.-based tailor Waraire Boswell. As Kalenderian keenly noted, “Making a statement is the new normal.”