23 posts tagged "Thomas Tait"
Following the likes of recent Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize winners like Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen‘s Phoebe and Annette Stephens, designers Annelie Augustin (pictured, left) and Odély Teboul (pictured, right) of Paris-based label Augustin Teboul have been announced as the prestigious award’s 2012 winners. The duo’s all-black collection won over the judging panel, made up of designers like Kenzo Takada, Bruno Frisoni (pictured, center), and Nathalie Rykiel, last night at Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris. The two beat out rising labels such as Calla, IRM Design, Les Garçons Paris, and Quentin Veron for the $39,000 prize. “We are very moved,” Teboul told WWD. “At the moment, Annelie and I do everything ourselves.” If Tait and the Anndra Neen girls are any example, then that won’t be the case for Augustin Teboul much longer thanks to their new funds to amp up their studio staff. Watch this space.
ANDAM’s 24-judge panel announced the six finalists for this year’s Fashion Award. On the list: Thomas Tait (who also took home the prestigious Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize in 2010 ); up-and-comer Julien David; Calla Haynes (who has been nominated for the ANDAM before); designer-slash-street-style-star Vika Gazinskaya; Cedric Charlier; and Nicolas Andreas Taralis. The judges, a group that includes Style.com’s executive editor Nicole Phelps, Humberto Leon, Emmanuelle Alt, The Daily Telegraph fashion editor Lisa Armstrong, and Virginie Mouzat, will meet in July with the finalists to select the winner. The prize, which has previously gone to the likes of Hakaan Yildirim, Giles Deacon, and last year, Anthony Vaccarello, is a total of €600,000, €10,000 worth of Swarovski crystals to use for their Spring 2013 collection, mentorship from LVMH CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel, and support from the Hudson’s Bay Company to buy the Spring 2013 collection. Stay tuned for the winner, to be announced this summer. All six of them, however, will have a space on www.thecorner.com in September to showcase and sell their collections. Pictured, a look from Tait’s Fall 2012 collection.
Twenty-four designers, including Thomas Tait (pictured), J. JS Lee, and Palmer//Harding’s Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, are in New York today as part of London Show Rooms’ 48-hour showcase to attract more interest in U.K. labels and bring attention to the debut of London Collections: Men (June 15 to 17). The inaugural men’s program will officially launch with a reception at St. James’s Palace hosted by the Prince of Wales.
Tait, the young designer who took home the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize award in 2010, has been steadily increasing his U.S. presence ever since. Most recently, the Canadian-born designer reports, he collaborated with pro skateboarder Keith Hufnagel, creating a collection of limited-edition baseball hats for his Huf line, in addition to teaming up with Cutler & Gross on a capsule collection and consulting for a major U.S. brand (a name he can’t yet reveal).
For Fall, Thomas Tait is feeling the need for stability. “I think it’s just a reaction, when you’re starting up a company, in fashion or not,” the designer said at a preview before his show tomorrow. “There’re a lot of insecurities financially so I just felt a need for stability in my life, and I could see that happening in the clothes. Everything needs to feel ready: put it on, no fuss no muss, reliable.” Even the color palette reflects the mood. “I wanted realistic colors, almost common. I needed to see everything clearly. I was thinking about moss a lot—not as in Kate, but actual moss.” There’s a deep mustard yellow—in the mid-calf leather boots Tait has designed for the first time—as well as olive green, navy, black, pops of white, and a rich chocolate brown.
“It’s important to me to feel that every piece in the collection has reason to exist,” he says. “It’s really interesting, now that I’m selling the clothes, to hear what buyers have to say—things like, ‘She doesn’t show her arms above the elbow.’ I realize there’s a really deep psychological justification for buying! and I can understand that. So when I’m pattern-cutting and draping the initial shape, I’m constantly trying to remind myself what it feels like to be inside: Where’s the fabric weighing down on the body, where is it holding onto, what is it covering up, what is it not covering up. And it opens up so many opportunities to play with volume and proportion.”
London is renowned for its hotbed of young fashion talent. But it’s not easy for a new designer to build a successful brand. That’s where NEWGEN comes in. Since 2001, Topshop and the British Fashion Council have worked together on the NEWGEN initiative, which supports the city’s brightest emerging designers. The coveted sponsorship, which, in the past, has been awarded to the likes of Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, and Erdem, provides fledgling labels with financial support, a show or exhibition at fashion week, international exposure via the London Showrooms in Paris and New York, and essential mentoring. “I felt so honored! I told my mom right away!” says three-season NEWGEN recipient Thomas Tait of being awarded sponsorship last year. (A look from his first NEWGEN-sponsored show, for Fall ’11, is at left.) “Having the opportunity to speak with and receive feedback from some of the industry’s top experts has really opened my eyes to the importance of not only designing and presenting strong work but also developing a stable and respectable business,” he adds, noting that the business seminars, as well as access to the NEWGEN panel of industry experts, have been instrumental in his success. Simone Rocha, who was awarded sponsorship for the first time this year, concurs. “The industry expertise from the NEWGEN panel is invaluable. And being part of the London Showrooms in Paris has increased my sales internationally.”
Henry Holland, who won sponsorship from 2008 to 2010, offers, “In many ways, I think NEWGEN sponsorship enabled us to continue showing whilst the label was in its infancy. For all young brands and designers, every penny counts, so the financial support is crucial. And it really helps to have that little extra recognition to spotlight your show.” David Koma, who’s been awarded sponsorship for the fourth season in a row, says the initiative has helped him to grow brand awareness. “At the early stage of my brand’s growth, NEWGEN provided business and mentoring support through the BFC, which is extremely helpful. And for a young designer, a show at London fashion week and the showrooms in Paris are fantastic platforms. Without these opportunities, it’s almost impossible to be introduced to press, buyers, and the public around the world.”
The grateful designers are taking the opportunity of the decade anniversary to give back, too. In celebration, Topshop has commissioned 21 NEWGEN recipients past and present, including Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, and Michael van der Ham, to design limited-edition T-shirts, available online and in U.K. stores now.