The Friends of the Costume Institute hosted a lively discussion Tuesday night at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The subject—”Fashion Fault Lines: West Coast / East Coast”—was a familiar one to any New Yorker who has lost friends to L.A.’s warmer climes. The Met’s Andrew Bolton led the debate between vintage fashion experts Cameron Silver and Tiffany Dubin; the twosome went head-to-head over the Costume Institute Ball versus the Academy Awards, an argument Silver effectively ended by choosing neither. “Michelle Obama,” he declared, “is the current center of the fashion universe.” On the hot topic of designer collabs with brands like Target and H&M, Lynn Yaeger came down firmly in support of Comme des Garçons‘ line for H&M, while Silver argued that the CFDA/Vogue white T-shirt series at the Gap was the best high-low around. The next face-off was between owners and loaners—those that buy vs. those that borrow, which Dubin said was hardly a debate. “I like to own fashion,” she said matter-of-factly. But toward the end of the talk, Bolton led the discussion back to coastal warfare. To decide which side was better, however, he didn’t look to red carpets but to homegrown designers. While he acknowledged many rising stars working in New York, he suggested that Rodarte and Rick Owens were inching California just ahead.