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July 22 2014

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47 posts tagged "Tilda Swinton"

In Memoriam: Remembering Those Who Passed in 2013

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The new year is just around the corner, but before we move on to 2014, we pause to celebrate a few of the innovators who passed away this year. Below are some of the legends to whom we say good-bye.

In Memoriam: Remembering those who passed in 2013

Ottavio and Vittorio Missoni
There’s no denying the colorful imprint that Missoni has had, and continues to leave, on Italian fashion since it was first created by Italian impresario Ottavio Missoni and his wife, Rosita, in 1958. Having contributed to the rise of Italian ready-to-wear, Ottavio, ever the patriarch, peacefully passed this May at 92, having bequeathed the reigns of the family empire to his children, Angela, Luca, and the late Vittorio, in the nineties. Vittorio, formerly the CEO of Missoni, who was credited with bringing the brand and its signature zigzag knits global, tragically disappeared, at age 58, with his partner in a plane crash off the coast of Venezuela in January of this year.
Related: Ottavio Missoni R.I.P. and Vittorio Missoni Missing Off Coast Of Venezuela

Lou Reed Lou Reed, the dark horse of rock ‘n’ roll whose artistry and lyricism profoundly influenced various generations of musicians, came into the limelight in the sixties with the Velvet Underground. Reed’s prolific work, which extended into a solo career up until the point of his death (this October, in Long Island, of liver disease at 71), grasped the attention of artists and politicians, like Andy Warhol and Czech leader Václav Havel, as well as his contemporaries, from Bob Dylan to Metallica.

Peter Kaplan
As Style.com’s editor in chief, Dirk Standen, wrote, Peter Kaplan was inimitable. Kaplan was best recognized for his editorial prowess as the single longest-standing editor (fifteen years) of The New York Observer, and he set the tone for the media industry to follow by covering the cultish intrigue of New York City’s elite, politicians, and power brokers. His extensive career, which included working at Time magazine, The New York Times, and Charlie Rose, prior to his tenure at the Observer, last saw him as the editorial director of Condé Nast’s Fairchild Fashion Group, of which Style.com is a part. Kaplan, age 59, passed of lymphoma.
Related: Peter Kaplan, R.I.P.

Lilly Pulitzer
At 81, Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau, known simply as Lilly Pulitzer, which was also the name for her fashion line of chintzy, preppy print looks prevalent in Palm Beach, Florida (her base), and abroad, passed this April. The socialite-cum-designer began creating her tropical-inspired looks in the sixties and was oft quoted as saying, “It’s always summer somewhere.”
Related: Lilly Pulitzer Dies at 81

Deborah Turbeville
Deborah Turbeville, who passed in Manhattan at 81, in October of lung cancer, was one of fashion’s great photographic legends. Having assisted the late great lensman Richard Avedon, Turbeville worked as a fit model for Claire McCardell and saw a brief editorial stint at Harper’s Bazaar, before building her creative oeuvre on a commanding yet soft aesthetic with a dark and feminine mystique. Appearing everywhere from Vogue to W to The New York Times, her work radically defined imagery in the seventies.
Related: R.I.P. Deborah Turbeville and The Image Makers: Deborah Turbeville Continue Reading “In Memoriam: Remembering Those Who Passed in 2013″ »

The Final Countdown: Style File’s Top Stories of 2013

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Jeremy ScottThe fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shake-ups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop-star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the past year. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Read numbers ten through six, below.

10. Raf Simons Opens His Atelier—and Shares His Label—to Artist Sterling Ruby for the Most Complete Designer/Artist Collaboration Yet
When Raf Simons does something, he does it all the way. Case in point, his Fall ’14 menswear collaboration. For his upcoming collection, which will hit the Paris catwalk on January 15, Simons has handed his atelier over to artist Sterling Ruby. The result will no doubt be the most extreme art-meets-fashion experiment to date. Style.com’s Tim Blanks spoke to Simons about his latest artistic endeavor.

9. At Givenchy, Flower Power, Military Might, and Even a Cameo From Bambi
In May, Style.com got an exclusive first look at Riccardo Tisci’s floral and camo Pre-Spring ’14 menswear collection for Givenchy. Showcased on fuchsia-haired models, the collection marked the debut of Tisci’s controversial Favelas 74 shirt, which was later worn by Marina Abramovic to the CFDA Awards in June. Matthew Schneier gave us a rundown of the dynamic lineup.

8. Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”
David Bowie had no shortage of headlines in 2013. In May, the rock star dropped The Next Day, his first album in ten years. His costumes were featured in an exhibition at the V&A, he starred alongside Arizona Muse in a Louis Vuitton campaign, and he was even named the best-dressed Briton in all of history. But his buzziest accomplishment was no doubt the music video for “The Stars (Are Out Tonight).” With a cast that included Tilda Swinton (a.k.a. David’s doppelgänger), Saskia de Brauw, and Andrej Pejic, the Jerry Stafford-styled film featured clothes from Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Rick Owens, Raf Simons (both for Dior and Jil Sander), and Saint Laurent. Style.com’s Tim Blanks took us inside the making of the music vid and walked us through its lust-worthy wardrobe.

7. “Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video
Remember that time in 2013 when Lady Gaga announced her new record, Artpop, and from the moment she revealed its Inez & Vinoodh-lensed album cover in July, until she hosted her raucous Art Rave release party in November, she was all anyone could talk about? Well, during the height of the Mother Monster frenzy, right after she debuted her flick for “Applause,” Style.com’s Katharine K. Zarrella spoke with her stylist, Brandon Maxwell, about the characteristically outré vintage and custom looks she donned in the music video.

6. Jeremy Scott: The New Man at Moschino
After celebrating its thirtieth anniversary in Milan, in September, Moschino appointed Jeremy Scott as its creative director. Scott, who succeeds Rossella Jardini, spoke to Style.com’s Nicole Phelps about the new gig, poking fun at fashion and sharing how he plans to bring the irreverent house into the future.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Meet Leo Greenfield, Observational Illustrator

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Haider Ackerman by Leo GreenfieldIf Paris has an answer to Williamsburg, it would be the area around the Rue Lucien Sampaix in the 10th arrondissement. The neighborhood’s epicenter is the Tuck Shop, the retro-chic vegetarian eatery and gourmet coffee bar opened last year by a trio of hip Australian girls: Anna Rice, Stella Rice, and Rain Laurent. Last night they added “art gallery” to their roster as they feted an impromptu first show by a fellow Aussie, Leo Greenfield, who’s been hanging around Paris since fashion week and working on what he calls “observational illustration.”

“I’m interested in the language of drawing. I look at [my work] as social portraits combined with journalism,” the artist said, surveying walls lined with breezy drawings of Haider Ackermann, Diane Pernet, and Alber Elbaz. Greenfield sketched these from memory after Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton’s recent Eternity Dress performance. Pretty good access for someone who showed up in Paris cold a couple of years back and just happened to benefit from the kindness of strangers, like Damir Doma and Joel Arthur Rosenthal.

Leo Greenfield Illustration

Asked what impressed him the most about the Spring shows, Greenfield replied, “Comme des Garçons for its graphic impact. And at Haider Ackermann I saw colors I had never seen before, and it was all so fast I couldn’t draw it!” In any case, all indications point to Greenfield closing in on his dream life as an artist in residence: He has just wrapped a weeklong stint in Martin Grant’s atelier. “It was amazing,” the artist said. “He’s all about minimalism without losing luxury.”

Illustrations: Leo Greenfield

Tilda Swinton: Fashion’s Muse for Eternity

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Tilda Swinton

Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.

Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.

Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”

Tilda Swinton

“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”

At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”

Photos: Vincent Lappartient

Runway to Red Carpet: Arty Parties and High-Glamour Mesh

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Karl Lagerfeld and Tilda SwintonWhile fashion and art have always gone hand in hand, the Spring ’14 runways were influenced by art more than ever. The creative cross-pollination continued this week with several designer-sponsored museum galas, which brought a bevy of well-dressed power players to the red carpet. New York City’s Museum of Modern Art’s tribute to Tilda Swinton, co-chaired by Karl Lagerfeld, had many stars donning Chanel’s recent runway wares on Tuesday evening. Jessica Biel, Lupita Nyong’o, and, of course, the lady of honor, Swinton, all turned up in Karl’s latest looks to celebrate. Later in the week, the Dior-sponsored Guggenheim International gala and pre-party in New York saw screen sirens like Elizabeth Olsen, Natalie Portman, Leelee Sobieski, and Cobie Smulders posing on the red carpet in a host of Raf Simons’ takes on the LBD. On Saturday, Gucci presented the Los Angeles County Museum of Art 2013 Art + Film gala, which was studded with A-listers in showstopping Gucci gowns. Salma Hayek in particular stood out in an embellished beige Gucci Première halter dress with a sparkling belted waist.

While mesh is not the first thing that comes to mind for black-tie affairs, strategically placed mesh has been making its way onto the red carpet, thanks to its starring role on many Spring ’14 runways. Zoe Saldana attended the LACMA 2013 Art + Film gala in a figure-hugging black Gucci gown with strips of mesh panels down the sides, which subtly made the otherwise conservative dress sexy. The following evening, Jaimie Alexander took the trend up several notches at the Thor: The Dark World premiere in L.A. The actress chose a floor-length, long-sleeve, high-neck Azzaro Spring ’14 dress that showed about as much skin as it covered.

Here, more of this week’s red-carpet highlights.

Photo: Billy Farrell / BFAnyc.com