53 posts tagged "Tim Blanks"
“I Love America”—that’s the song Paul & Joe creative director Sophie Albou was singing for Spring 2012. Her American adoration came through in her latest collection in the form of jeans, fringed ponchos, and reworked army surplus looks. Style.com’s Tim Blanks went backstage at the Paul & Joe Paris show to find out more about the inspiration behind Albou’s American girl. Watch the video now.
Menswear takes the stage today in London for LFW’s dedicated Man Day. And few better places for it. “The menswear scene in London has exploded in the past few years,” says Style.com’s Tim Blanks, and now in association with www.thecorner.com and the British Fashion Council, he’s working to support some of the rising stars. Tomorrow, thecorner.com launches a mini-store online retail space to showcase designs from four emerging Brit menswear talents: Christopher Raeburn, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Shannon, and James Long. In this Style.com exclusive video, Tim Blanks introduces a few of the guys to know.
Backstage With Anna Bauer, The Crillon Debs Of 2011, British Fashion Award Nominees Announced, And More…
In his foreword for photographer Anna Bauer’s new book Backstage, Style.com’s Tim Blanks calls the work “a benchmark for the present, and a reference point for the future.” For the book, Bauer caught intimate moments with some of fashion’s most influential people, including Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld, in between shows on Polaroid film. [Nowness]
Tallulah Willis (daughter of Bruce Willis and Demi Moore) and Sarah-Margaret Qualley (daughter of Andie MacDowell) are among this year’s crop of young ladies who will make their social debut at the Crillon Hotel’s Bal de Debutante in November. Young royals are also in the mix, including Charlotte de Bourbon Parme of France and Indian Princess Shaiyra Devi of Kapurthala. [WWD]
Yesterday, the British Fashion Council announced the short list of British Fashion Award nominees for 2011. Designers Christopher Kane, Sarah Burton, and Erdem Moralioglu are all in the running for the Designer of the Year award. [Vogue U.K.]
Madonna presented the inaugural Gucci for Women Award to actress Jessica Chastain in Venice on Saturday. On her choice of Madonna as the presenter, Frida Giannini said, “Who is more iconic than Madonna? Nobody.” [WWD]
Never mind their guest lists of the avant-garde’s great, good, and badly behaved, Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles’ villa on a hill above the town of Hyères in the South of France must have seemed to the locals like a bemusing glimpse of the future when it was built in the mid-1920′s. Its blocky modernism is still incredibly striking in the pink-shaded and shuttered context of a typical Riviera town, and you couldn’t wish for a better setting if you were an arts festival looking to stage a competition that celebrates creativity untrammeled by the forces of Mammon. Which, for the fashion end of the festival, translates into exhibitions of work by recent graduates from around Europe, for whom Hyères offers one final attempt to Truly Express Themselves. It might be their one last grasp at the high-concept ring before they’re subjected to the external disciplines of internships, studio assistant positions, and judgmental barb-tongues telling them to get real.
Except the judges at Hyères this year weren’t like that at all. The composition of the jury embraced a universe of sensibilities, from the rigorous thought processes of chair Raf Simons and editrix Jo-Ann Furniss, through the not-much-older-than-the-finalists Christopher Kane, Lazaro Hernandez, and Jack McCollough, to the well-seasoned industry perspectives of Carla Sozzani, Floriane de Saint-Pierre, Cathy Horyn, and Michel Gaubert, with my rosé connoisseurship bringing up the rear. Juries are a challenging proposition. In both numbers and gender equity, we were nowhere near 12 angry men, but the differences of opinion—and the passion with which they were aired—were a surprise, especially given that there was genuine agreement on one thing: This was not a bumper fashion year in Hyères. In the spirit of the place, it was bemusing, and even blocky hyères and thyères. But bumper? No.
The jury saw the finalists’ clothes three ways: as a presentation, on the catwalk, and in a showroom. It was fascinating how our appreciation of the designers ebbed and flowed according to the mode in which we were encountering them. Here, the fabrics ruled, there, the showmanship. The eventual winner was Lea Peckre from France. Her collection, Cemeteries Are Fields of Flowers (above), was polished in its execution, intriguing in its fabrication. I’m a sucker for wood sequins—and she also used GodSpeed You! Black Emperor as her show music, which can’t hurt. The attention to structure and the concierge color palette of Peckre’s clothes also had hints of Jean Paul Gaultier, with whom she interned. That too can’t hurt.
The jury’s honorable mention—and the competition’s most polarizing designer—was Emilie Meldem from Switzerland. Some members of the jury were utterly seduced by her directness, her drollness, and what she referred to as “the minimal eccentricity” of the Swiss aesthetic. What I loved most were the showpieces woven from twigs. (“Half my village helped on the dress,” she said with what might have been a chuckle, but could have been a choke.) Each stick was, according to Meldem, treated like a piece of jewelry. The result was so pagan, so ritualistic, that I felt like I was looking at The Wicker Man à la mode. Which can’t be bad.
One final note: Hyères is open to independent applicants from all over the world, which seems to be a well-kept secret. It doesn’t matter where you live, where you received your fashion education. So one word of advice to fashion students everywhere: Apply! Hyères at this time of year? A small patch of heaven.
The womenswear shows may grab the biggest slice of attention at New York fashion week, but let’s not forget about the menswear designers slated to show over the next few days. Gilt Manual hasn’t. In anticipation of the shows to come, the site checked in with a number of experts, from designers to writers to creative directors, about the current and future state of American men’s fashion. Included among the eminent interviewees is the ever-quotable Tim Blanks (“Clothes are what I wear; fashion is what I want”). Want to see more menswear? Consider this a little reminder that Tim, along with yours truly, will be reviewing all the Fall ’11 menswear shows right here on Style.com.
Pictured, from left: Spring 2011 looks from Michael Bastian, Duckie Brown, and Simon Spurr.
Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com (Spurr)