14 posts tagged "Tim Coppens"
When Tim Coppens walked on stage last night at the CFDA Awards to collect his Swarovski Award for Menswear, he was wearing a Tim Coppens suit and Adidas Stan Smith sneakers. “When I put on my suit yesterday, I had a couple options,” Coppens told me this morning over the phone. “And one of the options was the Stan Smiths, and I was thinking, Should I do it? I don’t know. But I said, ‘I’m just going to do it. Fuck it.’” For Coppens, the decision to wear sneakers was about more than just a stylistic choice, it was an expression of the ease he feels as a designer. “As the seasons go on, I feel more comfortable with expressing what the brand is about and following what I think is right for my vision.”
As far as visions go, Coppens and the other two nominees in his category—Todd Snyder and Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air—couldn’t be more different. Snyder’s conventional menswear elevates familiar designs, while Oliver is rattling the industry with collections that are unlike anything worn before, on the runway or the street. For Coppens, in this dichotomy there is a sweet spot—not between the two, necessarily, but alongside them. His collections are innovative mash-ups of sportswear and luxury. “[Tim Coppens] is not the typical menswear brand,” he says. “It’s not the suit and the tie. [This is] a time when menswear is changing, when there are a lot more influences. Menswear is a lot more open. It’s a lot broader than it used to be, and I think that’s super-positive.”
With an LVMH Prize nomination and the Swarovski Award win under his belt, Coppens will continue to develop his womenswear efforts, as well. “We’re not showing it yet,” he says, “but I’m definitely developing it. And I’m doing it at the same rate as the men’s—gradually I’m building a collection and seeing what works, what doesn’t work. I’m very focused and not going in it too soon. It’s got to be the right time and it’s got to be the right thing that I want to show.”
On that note, his thoughts on Rihanna’s showstopping CFDA gown? “She can pull it off, you know? I think somebody like that, determined, you’ve got to respect that. She got that award for a reason.” And—for different reasons—so did he.
Three cheers for Joseph Altuzarra! The talent won Womenswear Designer of the Year, the top honor at the CFDA Awards, which just wrapped at Alice Tully Hall. Altuzarra, who secured an investment from Kering last year, had some stiff competition in fellow nominees Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs, but we’d have to say the honor is much deserved. Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow won Menswear Designer of the Year, beating out Thom Browne and Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, and The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen took the Accessories Designer of the Year accolade, triumphing over Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough.
The third time was a charm for Creatures of the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, who won the Swarovski Award for Womenswear after being nominated in 2012 and 2013—bravo, boys! And to round things out, Tim Coppens and Irene Neuwirth earned the Swarovski Award for Menswear and Accessories respectively. The big winners were in good company, and shared the stage with such honorees as Tom Ford, Raf Simons, and a crystal-clad Rihanna. As host John Waters put it, “Fashion is power.” Tonight’s celebrated designers and icons certainly have a lot of it. Congratulations to this year’s victors and honorees, all of whom are listed below. Don’t forget to check out our complete coverage of the CFDA Awards, here.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Joseph Altuzarra for Altuzarra
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow for Public School
ACCESSORIES DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen for The Row
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters for Creatures of the Wind
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORIES
GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Raf Simons for Christian Dior
FASHION ICON OF THE YEAR AWARD
THE MEDIA AWARD IN HONOR OF EUGENIA SHEPPARD
THE FOUNDER’S AWARD IN HONOR OF ELEANOR LAMBERT
BOARD OF DIRECTORS’ TRIBUTE
The panel of experts has spoken, the votes are in, and today we can announce the twelve talents who will move on to the final round of the heated LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition. Atto by Julien Dossena, CG by Chris Gelinas, Gabriele Colangelo, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Miuniku by Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, Thomas Tait, Tillmann Lauterbach, Tim Coppens, Simone Rocha, Suno by Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, and Vika Gazinskaya will go head-to-head for the award’s 300,000 euro grant. A slideshow of the designers’ looks is available here.
But wait, you might be thinking. Weren’t there only supposed to be ten finalists? Yes, but LVMH’s team of forty industry insiders simply could not decide after surveying the work of the competition’s thirty semifinalists during an event at Paris fashion week. “It’s so hard,” offered Louis Vuitton’s executive vice president Delphine Arnault, who has been spearheading the initiative. “When we compiled the votes, four designers all had the same amount, so we let twelve in. I think it’s good.” We’re sure the finalists would agree.
The dozen men’s and womenswear designers, who hail from round the globe, will each have fifteen minutes to present their Fall ’14 collections at the LVMH headquarters in May. Judges including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, and others will consider their efforts, and later choose a winner. “All the [LVMH Prize] designers are really enthusiastic,” offered Arnault. “I’m sure the contestants are nervous, but at the same time, it’s an amazing opportunity to meet all these people.” In a room filled with powerhouses like that, we’d be nervous, too, but the final twelve can take solace in the fact that at least one prestigious juror has been in their shoes. “Karl [Lagerfeld] started his career after winning a prize, but he told me there were 200,000 applicants, not 1,200 as we’ve had,” relayed Arnault. “Karl even had to sit and draw in front of the judges to prove that someone else hadn’t done his sketches for him.” As for the eighteen semifinalists who didn’t make the cut, they can take solace in the fact that they’re eligible to apply again next year. “I’m sure they must be very disappointed, but I hope they see it as an opportunity. And I hope we helped them to make some key connections in the industry.”
As we’re sure you saw, the 2014 CFDA Award nominees and honorees were announced last night during a cocktail fete hosted by Nadja Swarovski and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg at the Bowery Hotel. During the soiree, it was revealed that Tom Ford and Raf Simons will both receive honors, and Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, and Joseph Altuzarra will duke it out for the Womenswear Designer of the Year title. (See the full list of nominees here.)
While the news that director John Waters would be hosting was pretty great, we were particularly thrilled to learn that Hood by Air—the streetwise anti-establishment luxury line whose Fall ’14 show featured old-school voguers—was nominated for the Swarovski Award for Menswear. It seemed to signify that the brand, which Style.com’s Maya Singer recently dubbed the most exciting thing happening in New York right now, had finally cracked, well, the establishment. “When you put commentary out there, you hope that people realize what’s going on and like your take,” offered designer Shayne Oliver. “I’m glad that they’re actually listening,” added the talent, who was just back from Paris, where he had presented his collection to a panel of judges during the penultimate round of competition for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. “We’ve been having some really cool meetings in Paris,” he later hinted. “I think there might be some European moves coming in the future.”
Tim Coppens, also just back from the LVMH event, stuck around for some revelry and received a nomination for the Swarovski Menswear honor, as well. “I’m excited,” he said. So excited, in fact, that he’s already started thinking about the June 2 awards ceremony. “What I’ll wear was actually the first thing that went through my head,” he laughed, adding that he’ll probably design something to don to the affair. Creatures of the Wind’s Christopher Peters, who, along with partner Shane Gabier, is up for the Swarovski Award for Womenswear, also pondered his ceremony attire. “I don’t have any formal clothes that don’t have food on them, so I might have to go shopping,” he deadpanned. “Last year, I wore this really insane Comme des Garçons jacket with embroidered music notes down the sleeves. I loved it more than anything, and then I wore it to a wedding in Texas and everyone thought I was with the band. So it was perfect.” When asked whether he was nervous about the competition, Peters replied, “We both feel extremely honored to be nominated, but we’re always nervous. About everything. I’m kind of, like, constantly panicked, so this is no different than my normal state.” Considering most of the designers in attendance last night were just back from sales in Europe and already working away on their next collections, we have to assume that Peters isn’t alone.