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August 27 2014

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14 posts tagged "Tim Hamilton"

Tim Hamilton’s Womenswear Debut: No Boys Allowed

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Disregard the name. According to Tim Hamilton, it’s giving people the wrong impression. “People hear ‘Tim Hamilton,’ and they immediately think all-American, they think casual, they think sportswear,” muses the designer, restraining a sigh. “You can’t really control how you’re perceived, but honestly, that’s really not who I am.” Indeed, Hamilton has come a long way from his days in the trenches at Ralph Lauren and J.Crew: Not only has he steered his eponymous menswear brand on an ever more directional path since launching it in 2006, but now, as he debuts womenswear, Hamilton finds himself beating back those all-American sportswear expectations yet again. Fashion is, after all, riding a wave of interest in the unisex—witness Chloë Sevigny‘s new line for Opening Ceremony, or Stefano Pilati’s Edition Unisex designs for YSL—and Hamilton’s female fans may have anticipated, and perhaps even hoped, that the designer would jump on that bandwagon. But instead of riffing on his duds for men, or for that matter, conceding to the recession economy’s utilitarian mood, the womenswear he’s unveiling for Fall ’09 is both unapologetically luxe and exultantly feminine. “That’s one reason I wanted to show in Paris,” Hamilton explains. “My reputation doesn’t precede me here, quite so much. Although obviously,” he adds, “there’s still that whole name thing to contend with.” This evening, Hamilton will present his first womenswear collection at Galerie Ghislaine Hussenot in Le Marais; here, he tells Style.com about fashion fantasy, Iowan fabulosity, and the fastest way to a fashion editor’s heart.

Can I be frank? Your menswear is something I already like to shop, and it seems so adaptable to a womenswear aesthetic—I was a little disappointed when I found out you were going in a completely new direction with this line.
I get that whole thing, of going to the boy’s department, shopping men’s vintage, borrowing from your boyfriend’s closet. I really do. But I also feel like that’s more interesting than just, you know, buying something from a designer who does womenswear versions of his men’s stuff. It’s like, you want the cuts to be a little off.

You didn’t even toy with the idea of doing something unisex-y? That’s having such a moment.
It honestly never even occurred to me to do a woman’s collection that way. Not to sound like a snob or anything, but that wouldn’t have been a challenge. I wanted to think about women on their own terms—they shop differently, the trends move at a different pace, you have more freedom to be experimental. Designing a woman’s collection is like creating a world. Whereas with the men’s stuff, you know, I’ve kind of hit my mark, and so each new season comes down to establishing a few key shapes and then polishing up the details. There’s more of a premium on consistency. And I was ready for fantasy. Continue Reading “Tim Hamilton’s Womenswear Debut: No Boys Allowed” »

Linda Farrow Goes Behind The Archives. Way Beyond.

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Nirvana, for sunglasses fanatics, is to be found in a converted schoolhouse in the Clerkenwell area of London. That’s where the Linda Farrow archives are housed—a few filing cabinets’ worth of specs dating from the origins of the Linda Farrow brand in the late 1960′s. Aviators of all shapes and sizes and superbly wacky ’80′s frames in iridescent metal and candy-colored plastic number among the styles that Simon Jablon found in his mother’s warehouse several years ago. The trove inspired him to launch the Linda Farrow Vintage brand in 2003. Initially, Jablon and partner Tracy Sedino were selling off the archive; these days, they’re working to augment it. The brand is already a profligate collaborator, working with Raf Simons, Luella Bartley, Veronique Branquinho, and Jeremy Scott, to name a few, and with the launch of the new Projects range this summer, Linda Farrow Vintage will
be bringing yet more designers into its fold. “We’ve always loved working with young, creative designers,” explains Jablon, “because every time we do, we learn something. They’re constantly bringing us ideas that seem impossible to execute.” Projects comprise styles from designers such as Giles, Tim Hamilton, Antonio Berardi, Charles Anastase, and Preen. As Jablon notes, additional designers may be added to the Projects roster in seasons to come. And in the meantime, he and Sedino have combined the very new and the very, very, very, very old in the latest Linda Farrow Vintage frame—the Mammoth. This limited-edition addition to the archive features—seriously—woolly mammoth tusk. “We’re only doing 100 pieces,” says Jablon. “The melting of the polar ice caps has exposed quite a lot of mammoth tusk, enough that a bit of it has found its way to market, but the bottom line,” he adds, “is that you can only produce so many sunglasses that are over a million years old.”

Photo: Courtesy of Linda Farrow

Why Being Boy-Crazy Isn’t Always Bad

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Is it just me, or is fashion going mad for men in so many ways? YSL Unisex debuts in stores soon and Chloë Sevigny is following up her ballyhooed Opening Ceremony range with a unisex collection of her own. Then, a whole spate of womenswear designers have launched men’s collections (Balmain, Gareth Pugh) or announced plans to do so (Alexander Wang), and a host of menswear brands have either launched collections for women (Nice Collective) or announced plans to do so (Tim Hamilton). Meanwhile, eagle-eyed style spotters at last Thursday’s Adam Kimmel presentation in Paris saw Camille Bidault-Waddington sporting one of the menswear designer’s signature jumpsuits. What gives? “I think women love the quality of well-made menswear,” offers Kimmel, who claims a devoted female fan base. “Men’s tailoring on suits and outerwear is unbeatable, and women sometimes want something a little looser, and more durable and comfortable, without having to give up any of the refinement.” That said, Kimmel suggests that a bit of styling finesse is required, in order to femme up a menswear look. His advice: Start with a well-placed belt and a great pair of heels. “It’s also important to roll sleeves up,” he adds, “flip up collars, and unbutton shirts down to show a little skin.” In other words: Just because you shop like a man, it doesn’t mean you have to look like one, too.

Tim Hamilton To Show Women’s!

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With so many womenswear labels recently adding men’s collections to their repertoires— Roland Mouret, Gareth Pugh, Matthew Williamson, Gianfranco Ferré, to name a few—we suppose it was only a matter of time that there would be movement in the opposite direction. Now, one of New York’s favorite menswear talents, Tim Hamilton, tells us that he will be showing a capsule women’s collection for Fall 2009 with a presentation during Paris fashion week. “It’s not just going to be sized-down versions of the men’s stuff,” he explains. Instead, Hamilton, inspired by his mother’s avant-garde, all-black look and mid-century postmodernism, has put together a small selection of looks that range from a Grecian gown that echoes the architectural lines of Josef Hoffman to sharp-shouldered jackets paired with jodhpur-esque pants. The samples, which Hamilton spent three weeks in Japan and Italy perfecting, arrive at the end of the month. For the presentation, Hamilton also whipped up a small selection of shoes, which, though he hasn’t yet decided whether they’ll be produced for retail, he assures us will knock our Wolfords off.

Photo: Courtesy of Tim Hamilton