16 posts tagged "Timo Weiland"
“Embellishment was extraordinarily intimidating,” says New York-based designer Rachel Antonoff, whose namesake label, sold at retailers like Barneys and Steven Alan, has for several seasons skewed more cute than glam. (“I design for myself in my daydreams,” she jokes, “so it’s me—but a little bit taller.”) But she took a new step in a more elevated direction for Fall when, on the recommendation of friend and fellow designer Timo Weiland, she enlisted the help of Milaaya Embroideries, a Mumbai-based fair trade sewing co-op whose client list includes big name designers such as Balmain, Lanvin, Marni, and Givenchy. “I loved all the fabric people in New York, but this was just a really special environment,” says Antonoff, who equates Milaaya’s New York headquarters (they also have offices in Milan and Paris) with “a candy land of embellishment swatches.”
The result is a brightly colored, checkered embroidery that adorns select pieces of Antonoff’s Fall ’12 collection. Dubbed by the young designer as “the chiclet,” after the gum, the playful pattern of glass beads and cotton threads can be found on chic, collared dresses (the Jack combo dress, pictured) and simple T-shirts with festive sleeves. This foray into embellishment has already garnered “best-selling” potential from a slew of interested buyers, and the designer plans to continue the experiment in seasons to come. That is, if she can overcome her new problem. “Now I have to figure out how to avoid going embellishment crazy,” she says. “It’s like chocolate, once you have a little taste you have to learn how to scale back.”
To showcase their Spring 2012 collection, the sister design duo of Dannijo Danielle and Jodie Snyder enlisted the help of photographer Lyle Owerko—who famously shot the image that appeared on Time magazine’s September 11, 2001 issue—to photograph their friends wearing Dannijo gems. “The Portraits project we did with Lyle was so well received that the concept has expanded into the birth of a zine about individuals and lifestyle,” Danielle tells Style.com of their newest project. The free biannual, launching November 14, is set to be distributed in shops selling their jewelry and in art galleries and restaurants around the world.
“We’ve used the iconic yearbook format in the context of a newspaper to showcase a range of dynamic individuals who are essentially pioneers in their respective industries,” Snyder explains. That group includes designers, influencers, DJs, and musicians like ?uestlove, Mia Moretti, and Timo Weiland, offering fashion tips and trends. For the second edition of the zine, expect more work from Owerko, “maintaining the same black-and-white documentary style of photography,” but other than that, the rest is yet to be determined. “Stay tuned. It’s going to be about people, fashion ideas, music, film, technology, and philanthropy. Did I give away too much?”
Today, the CFDA Incubator welcomes its newest group of initiates: Antonio Azzuolo, Arielle Shapiro of Ari Dein, Doug and Ben Burkman of Burkman Bros, Christian Cota, Emanuela Duca, Rick Hendry and Marc Daniels of Isaora, Luis Fernandez of Number: Lab, Reece Solomon of Reece Hudson, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland, and Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake & Stars. The selection committee of industry leaders, including Style.com’s executive editor, Nicole Phelps, carefully picked this group of ten young designers to follow in the footsteps of the inaugural dozen designers who kicked off the program in February 2010. We have watched the careers of current all-stars in the Incubator, like Prabal Gurung and Bibhu Mohapatra, flourish during their short time in the “fashion frat,” and here, we check in with the newest pledge “class II” before they move into 209 West 38th Street.
a. a. Antonio Azzuolo
This marks designer Antonio Azzuolo‘s second time in an Incubator program. After graduating from Ryerson University, the Montreal native took part in the Canadian version. “There are programs like the Incubator all over the world and I always wondered why the States didn’t have one,” he says. Following the program, he lived in Paris for ten years, where he honed his skills at labels like Kenzo and Hermès. Now, with his own menswear label, the designer is heavily focused on the concept of duality. “Being a twin [sibling], I have always had aspects of feminity and masculinity in my work,” the designer says. For Spring ’12, however, expect to see opposing French and Japanese cultural influences at play.
“I’ve been decorating my space in the Incubator for about six months now,” lingerie designer Arielle Shapiro tells us. “In my mind, that is.” Now that it’s a reality, however, she has an antique mirror, an old yellow Chippendale chair, and a vintage suitcase on hand to fill what will become her home-away-from-home. For Shapiro, her surroundings have always played a crucial role in her design process. Most recently, her innerwear and swimwear Invisible Cities collection was inspired by a trip to Rome. Eventually, Shapiro’s hoping to parlay that interest in architecture and interior design by developing her budding brand into a full lifestyle collection to include “more swim and ready-to-wear, bedding, and home.”
You might recognize the Burkman Bros name thanks to Kanye West, who wore Doug and Ben Burkman’s woven bracelets at Coachella this year. From rappers to rugged men, their casual menswear line has since found a steady stream of followers. For Spring 2012, the globetrotting brothers were feeling Hawaiian after a trip to the islands. “We learned how to surf and found a lot of inspiration in the Hawaiian culture, particularly in relation to how we like to use prints and color,” says Doug. As for the Incubator, Ben says, “Working in a proper office space should be interesting…To have that divide between work and our home should be nice.”
“The whole environment will be like going back to school,” says designer Christian Cota, who realized the wealth of benefits that comes from being a part of the Incubator program after talking to some of his friends in the current crop. “Obviously, with Diane von Furstenberg as the CFDA president, you have a tremendous support system helping you out,” Cota, who has received several honorable accolades in the past few years, like Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nomination, says. “I’m at the point with my business where we are really expanding, and having their help to do it is key.” For Spring ’12, look out for a strong showing of polished signature Cota looks, like mixing structure with softer fabrics, and a plethora of prints.
“My work represents my life experience,” says jewelry designer Emanuela Duca. “The rough surfaces, it’s what comes from the Roman culture, and the slick part, that’s my life in Manhattan.” Born and raised in Rome, the New York transplant has managed to find a beautiful balancing point between the two cultures in her work. Her structural collection of textural jewelry has a niche retail market, selling in galleries around the world, but Duca, like Isaora designer Ricky Hendry, wants to expand her business to reach a wider clientele with the help of the Incubator program. Continue Reading “Meet The CFDA Incubator Class Of 2014″ »
There’s a very open, very shoppable region between art and interior design, and a new Web site called Grey Area is plunging right into it. Kyle DeWoody and Manish Vora, the two young art-world insiders behind this new e-commerce venture, launched it last night with a party at the Wooly, where some of the site’s unique and limited-edition wares were on display. To wit: rope benches by Orly Genger, a resin cast of a Birkin bag by Shelter Serra, which sold on-site, and a tablecloth on which Ruffian designer Claude Morais had made an abstracted line drawing of a male torso (that’s the piece, above, modeled by Morais’ partner, Brian Wolk). “If you see it, you see it,” Morais shrugged, adding that he’s been painting as a hobby for years.
At the moment, Grey Area’s ever-changing online inventory includes bath towels by Tracey Emin and Ed Ruscha, wallpaper by Kiki Smith, a wristwatch by Tom Sachs, and E.V. Day’s playful encapsulation of the Barbie doll—she’s mummy-wrapped in a cocoon of silver and chrome. Grey Area commissioned some of the pieces, others not. It’s hard to believe the idea was born just two months ago, until you consider the founders’ powers combined: Vora is one of the New York gallery scene’s most active gadabouts, and DeWoody and her mother, Beth, are two of the city’s most active art patrons. The crowd at the Wooly included Nicole Miller and Jenna Bush, and had designers Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein (who have a Grey Area collaboration of their own in the works) in the DJ booth.
The site has some storefronts in its future, too, albeit temporary ones: a pop-up in Water Mill later this month, one in L.A. at the end of September, and one in Miami for Art Basel. Explained DeWoody, probably only half-joking, “We’re hoping to conquer the States and then move to Europe next year.”
Nobody forgets their first time. But not everybody feels compelled to recall it in print. Credit where credit’s due, then, to the contributors to the latest issue of Dossier, Skye Parrott and Katherine Krause’s glossy biannual, which rounded up a cast of characters—from Alexis Bittar and Cynthia Rowley to Miranda July and arty nouveau-pornographer Richard Kern—to muse, in pictures and text, on their first forays in the bedroom. (One brave soul even conducted a phone interview with his deflowerer, who estimated that they’d last spoken their junior year of college.) Was anything too raw to see the light of day? “We have a policy of printing everything we like,” Parrott said with a laugh at the packed launch party last night, which drew Rogan Gregory, Monique Péan, Timo Weiland, and Suno’s Max Osterweis to the New Museum.
Cobbled together in updated-zine style—with help from Buero’s Alex Wiederin, the magazine’s recently appointed creative consultant, who co-founded Another Magazine and revamped Ten and Vogue Hommes International—it’s a testament of sorts to letting it all hang out. And letting it all hang out is exactly what Andrej Pejic does in an editorial shot by Collier Schorr (who, Parrott says, is planning to use some of the images in an upcoming show). The androgynous beauty, shot in various states of undress, is in good company among the magazine’s cover girls. The previous issues have featured Freja Beha Erichsen and Daria Werbowy, and while the three aren’t the strangest of bedfellows, Pejic is definitely a departure of sorts. “We had Freja and Daria,” Parrott said of the decision. “As far as models go, how could you go bigger than that?” As any of the issue’s contributors could tell you, there’s a first time for everything.