9 posts tagged "Todd Snyder"
Things are changing for this year’s International Woolmark Prize competition. For the first time ever, two designers will be receiving the overall award—one for menswear, one for womenswear—and we’re already placing our bets on the USA nominees, which were announced today. Jonathan Simkhai, M.Patmos, Nonoo, Rosie Assoulin, and Whit will duke it out for womenswear, while A.A. Antonio Azzuolo, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Ovadia & Sons, Public School, Timo Weiland, and Todd Snyder will compete for the menswear title. “The addition of a menswear award this year signifies the strength and following of the International Woolmark Prize and its impact over the past two years across the globe,” said Stuart McCullough, The Woolmark Company managing director. “Previous winners Christian Wijnants from Belgium and Rahul Mishra from India have both experienced exponential increase in the turnover of their businesses, becoming international names overnight after their respective wins in London in 2013 and Milan in 2014.”
Regional competitions are also taking place in Asia, Europe, Australia, and India/Middle East to select ten finalists, who will each receive AU $50,000 ($47,000 USD) toward their next collection, as well as an invitation to the international final. (As you may recall, Joseph Altuzarra represented the USA last year.) The two overall winners will receive AU $100,000 ($94,000 USD) to go toward the fabric sourcing and marketing of their collections, and will also have the opportunity to sell their collection at Harvey Nichols, Colette, Saks Fifth Avenue, and other key retailers around the world.
Orley—the effervescent New York-based menswear label designed by brothers Alex and Matthew Orley, and the latter’s fiancée, Samantha Florence—has come a long way since launching with only a handful of playful jumpers last year. Having previously focused on knitwear, Orley unveiled its first full-fledged collection for Spring ’14—all forty-five pieces of it. “Knits are still eighty percent of the [line],” offered Samantha. “But this season, we were able to build off feedback we’ve gotten from the retailers, now that we have some sales history.” And an impressive sales history it is—after only four seasons on the scene, the brand is already sold by Bergdorf Goodman, Fivestory, Carson Street Clothiers, and Tokyo’s United Arrows, among others.
The designers like to avoid any literal references when dreaming up their luxe cashmere, linen, and cotton wares. But this season, a hint of the Italian coast couldn’t help but sneak its way in. “It all starts with the palette,” explained Alex. “And recently, we had been spending a lot of time on the Adriatic because that’s where our factories are, so there are some Mediterranean reference points in the colors, the floral motifs, and the loucheness of the collection.” This comes through in a laid-back trousers-and-jacket combo cut from burnt-red linen, as well as striped cardigans in various hues of citrus or aqua, and pullovers done in oversize floral prints. “Really, it always comes back to how Matthew and I want to dress,” continued Alex of the brand’s aesthetic. “It’s irreverent—a little bit tossed on and colorful, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
Considering the emerging menswear boom we’ve seen in New York of late (just look at Public School, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and the like), young brands need a little something extra to stand out. And the Orley crew asserts that its appeal lies in the sheer quality of its product. The knits, all of which are produced in Italy (wovens are made right here in the USA), are crafted with top-notch yarns from mills like Loro Piana and Cariaggi. And one can’t overlook the to-a-T details, like horn and gilded buttons, grosgrain and leather trims, and combination linings.
Orley seems well positioned to forge ahead, and it has big goals for the future, including expanded e-commerce, suiting, and—a few years down the road—a stand-alone store. As for the team’s family dynamic, Alex insists that it helps the creative process. “If it comes down to a decision that we really can’t agree on, Matthew and I will arm wrestle,” he laughed. The biggest talking point this season? “I’ve been yelling at Matthew to propose to Sam for five years now, and this year he finally did it,” said Alex. “So that was the main point of discussion.”
“I think my stomach dropped to the floor and all the blood rushed out of my hands and my feet,” said Misha Nonoo of her reaction when she learned she was one of the ten 2013 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists. The emerging-designer initiative invited program alums and industry insiders, including Thakoon Panichgul, Prabal Gurung, Pamela Love, and Max Osterweis, to Rag & Bone’s Meatpacking District studio last night, where the names of this year’s top picks were revealed. Now in its tenth year, the program will announce the 2013 winners—who will receive financial support and mentoring—at a Gala in L.A., on November 11.
This year’s finalists—Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School, Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard of Veronica Beard, Marc Alary of Marc Alary Jewelry, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, Misha Nonoo of Nonoo, Shimon Ovadia and Ariel Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome, Commodore Jason Jones of Parabellum, and Juan Carlos Obando—were selected by a group of influencers, which included new judges Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone. Continue Reading “The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Reveals Its Top Ten” »
The CFDA just got a little—well, actually, significantly—bigger. Today, the Council of Fashion Designers of America named 32 new members, including Suno’s Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis (above), who won the 2013 Swarovski Award for Womenswear, Jennifer Meyer, Todd Snyder, Creatures of the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, Lulu Frost’s Lisa Salzer, Illesteva’s Daniel Silberman and Justin Salguero, and more. “Acceptance into the CFDA family is validation of a designer’s talent and it is an opportunity to access the many offerings and programs provided by the organization,” CFDA CEO Steven Kolb told WWD. The council, which hosted its 2013 awards bash last week, is now up to a whopping 454 members.
The CFDA Fashion Awards are set for June 3 (tune in the following morning to watch the exclusive broadcast here, on Style.com), and to introduce the designers nominated for the 2013 Swarovski Awards, the crystal house has created a trio of films. In the weeks leading up to the ceremony, we’ll be debuting the shorts. Above, get better acquainted with the Swarovski Award for Menswear nominees: Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne.