11 posts tagged "Tome"
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has announced the ten talents that it’s sending to the Americans in Paris showroom next week, and the list is filled with many of the bold-faced up-and-comers you’d expect. New York darlings Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School made the cut, as well as Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome, Misha Nonoo, Wes Gordon, Jennifer Fisher, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait, Marc Alary, Richard Chai, George Esquivel, and Juan Carlos Obando. We have no doubts that these hometown up-and-comers will be able to wow the international fashion set.
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections kick off in New York on Wednesday, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Tome, designed by Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Thursday, February 6
WHAT: “Two women from the Arab world: Shirin Neshat and Oum Kalthoum. Political, cosmopolitan, nomadic, renegade, beautiful, glamorous, formidable.” —Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin. The designers sent us a look from their Fall ’14 collection, above.
“It’s one of those rare occurrences where the inspiration for our Spring collection, artist Ana Mendieta, by some cosmic happening, coincided with her first-ever retrospective, with no actual planning,” said Ryan Lobo, the co-founder and -designer (along with Ramon Martin) of up-and-coming New York womenswear label Tome.
Martin and Lobo, whose Spring ’14 collection was inspired by the late Cuban-American artist, were asked almost serendipitously by Southbank Centre’s Hayward Gallery, in London, to produce a commissioned artwork for the comprehensive exhibit of Mendieta’s life work, which opens tomorrow evening.
The two immediately obliged, taking several months to plan out their tribute, which they filmed at a friend’s property in Millbrook, New York. The resulting short, which debuts exclusively here, references the natural, pagan elements of Mendieta’s oeuvre while highlighting a few of Tome’s light and ethereal looks from the runway.
“There were so many different ways we could approach making a film as an homage to her,” Lobo said. “But the work that resonated with the two of us most, were her hand drawings and self-portraits where she becomes one with nature.” It was the latter, along with the severity of her work, that moved the designers upon their first introduction to the artist while watching Lynn Hershman-Leeson’s 2010 documentary film, Women Art Revolution.
The Tome woman is not dissimilar to Mendieta. “There’s this duality to her,” Lobo explained. “She doesn’t sacrifice her femininity or the power she exudes.” For the emerging designers, this film was an exercise in humility—a chance to pay it back. Another, humble way of paying thanks was the film’s title. It’s simply dubbed For Ana.
There’s no shortage of deejays on the fashion scene, with your Misshapes and your Harleys and your Alexas and what have you. But Mimi Xu—who goes by the name of Misty Rabbit when she’s on the decks—has a particularly impressive knack for blending unexpected musical genres (think Berlin’s ambient electro mixed with classical jazz fading into a cool spin of disco-funk) into cohesive and oh-so-catchy sets. She’s an eager bunny, and knows just how to get the party going for the likes of Miu Miu, Prada, Fendi, Acne Studios, and too many others to name. This season, the Shanghai- and Copenhagen-raised but London-based sound designer is as busy as ever. She mixed the soundtracks for Yigal Azrouël, Catherine Malandrino, Tome, and Ostwald Helgason in New York, developed runway music for Topshop, Julien Macdonald, and Emilia Wickstead in London, and dropped a special Fall/Winter mix for Mytheresa.com just last week. Next up? A hotly anticipated party for Moncler’s Pharrell Williams collaboration in Paris this evening, and a personal design project, which will undoubtedly become the requisite accessory for music-loving cool girls come holiday season. Here, Xu talks to Style.com about her Mytheresa.com mix, the difference between playing parties and runways, and her favorite new artists.
You’ve done a lot of shows this season. How does deejaying a fashion show differ from deejaying a party?
Deejaying is about a spontaneous, fun, and playful way of sharing music. It’s about getting the party going. When you do a soundtrack, it’s very nerdy and unglamorous—you’re behind the scenes, you’re really working with the designer, and you’re creating something with the designer to really reflect his collection. It’s not about what I like. Of course, it’s about my influences and my take on music. But I’m there to showcase the collection. I love doing both, but they’re very different. Show soundtracks take a lot longer. It’s a much more technical process—it’s much more creative, and it’s more intellectual. And with soundtracks, everything’s set in stone previously. On the day of the catwalk, you don’t have to do anything besides cuing the show. But when you deejay, things never go to plan. Anything can happen on the dance floor. I can fill up the stage—who knows?
What have designers been asking you to play this season?
There are no specific trends this season. Each designer had their own inspirations. Musically, I went from Mississippi blues to Brazilian seventies experimental Tropicalia movement to psychedelic rave to classical theatrical to French electro. It’s a big range, so you need to be very erudite in your music knowledge. Designers need that.
What are you going to play for the Moncler-and-Pharrell Williams party?
I’ve been thinking today that we’re gonna do something quite hip-hop-y. But I don’t know! You can’t play Pharrell Williams tracks. I’d be embarrassed to play someone’s track when they’re in the room. So I’m not sure yet…. Obviously, I’m gonna have a lot of R&B and hip-hop, but it’s gonna go into disco and a few electronica-sounding tracks, too. I need to get people dancing, so I’ll see tonight how it will go. Continue Reading “Misty Rabbit Talks Spinning Fashion’s Soundtracks” »
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Tome, designed by Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Friday, September 6
WHAT: ” S14 is a meditation on the visceral oeuvre of Ana Mendieta. Her pagan woman comes to life in python skin and lace, tweed and brocade.”—Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin. The designers sent us a peek at the back of one of their Spring looks, above.