56 posts tagged "Tory Burch"
With a family name like Burch, if you’re going to make a foray into fashion, it had better be a good one. And with their newly launched sportswear brand, Trademark, sisters Pookie and Louisa (daughters of J. Christopher and former stepdaughters of Tory) have done just that. Since early this year, they’ve been turning out quietly arty clothes (Donald Judd’s work is a major Trademark design touchstone) that wouldn’t look out of place alongside Jil Sander or Céline, but which all clock in around $100 to $500 a piece. And now they are placing the finishing touches on their first boutique, set to bow in Soho at 95 Grand Street during the start of New York fashion week.
A brick-and-mortar location was always in the cards since, as Pookie says, “We really wanted to be able to express the entire world around Trademark. And the location was what we’d been looking for: There was foot traffic, but it was still more interesting. The space has a lot of special details about it, and it just had the right energy.” Swedish stark-meister Andreas Bozarth Fornell’s firm, Bozarthfornell Architects, whose client list reads like an industry who’s-cool (Acne Studios, Opening Ceremony, Kenzo), was brought in to design the shop. “It was all about having this beautiful, minimal space with clean lines that felt very modern but still a little bit nostalgic and touching on the classic elements,” says Louisa.
Also on the duo’s docket for autumn? Their first official ad campaign, lensed by British youngblood Jamie Hawkesworth. His beautifully uneasy fine-art work has earned him a commercial résumé that includes the likes of Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, and Loewe—as well as the longtime admiration of the Burch sisters. For Trademark’s Fall imagery (which debuts exclusively on Style.com), Hawkesworth, stylist Sara Moonves, and a bare-bones crew headed to Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Models were street cast and shot in barns and against the rural backdrops of the prevalently Amish area. The end result is a dreamy tension between the pastoral and the decidedly present-day. “We thought the landscape was really special. And we also felt like we wanted to do something that Jamie was comfortable with and was excited about,” says Louisa. “And I think for Jamie, he loves to photograph real people.”
Trademark, 95 Grand Street, New York. For more information, visit trade-mark.com.
Believe it or not, there’s quite a bit of number crunching that goes into creating our top ten new models list. Each season, we go through the crop of fresh faces and break down each girl’s show list. We consider the quantity and quality of shows she walked and factor in exclusive appearances (yes, going the selective route can still pay off) as well as all-around buzz. One part of the equation that requires a bit more deliberation is deciding just who qualifies as “new.” Take Lexi Boling, for example. Technically, it was the Chicago-born catwalker’s sophomore season; she did Alexander Wang and several big shows in Paris during Spring ’14. But she didn’t pop up in all four cities last September and we couldn’t deny the impact she made this season, so we included her in our Fall ’14 roundup. On the other hand, someone who didn’t make the cut because we felt she had a tad too much experience was icy blond Nastya Sten. With sixty-three Fall shows under her belt, the Russian model was the most in-demand girl of the entire season. Meanwhile, we’re positively smitten with Natalie Westling’s flame-red hair and tomboyish appeal, but she simply didn’t stomp enough catwalks to qualify as a top newcomer. But that’s not to say that these ladies don’t deserve shout-outs. Below, we bring you the stats for Sten, Westling, and more noteworthy runners-up for Style.com’s top ten new models list.
Name: Nastya Sten (THE SOCIETY), middle right
Shows Walked: 63
Highlights: Opened Vera Wang, Tory Burch, Peter Pilotto, Chalayan. Closed Chanel, Diane von Furstenberg. Walked Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, Fendi, Versace, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Lanvin, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent.
Name: Natalie Westling (THE SOCIETY), top right
Shows Walked: 13
Highlights: WalkedMarc Jacobs, Giles, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Valentino.
Name: Kate Grigorieva (THE LIONS), top left
Shows Walked: 17
Highlights: Opened Donna Karan, Barbara Bui. Closed Giambattista Valli. Walked Gucci, Versace, Isabel Marant, Céline, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen.
Name: Iana Godnia (MAJOR), middle left
Shows Walked: 24
Highlights: Exclusive Calvin Klein Collection. Walked Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Nina Ricci, Valentino.
Name: Kasia Jujeczka (IMG), bottom left
Shows Walked: 22
Highlights: Opened/closed Aquilano.Rimondi. Walked Calvin Klein Collection, Alexander Wang, Prada, Marni, Dior, Lanvin, Miu Miu, Sacai, Valentino.
Name: Larissa Marchiori (THE SOCIETY), bottom right
Shows Walked: 14
Highlights: Opened Dries Van Noten. Walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Alexander McQueen, Miu Miu, Sacai, Saint Laurent, Valentino.
My daughter is definitely brainwashing me. Nearly everything in my house has something to do with a Disney princess. For a while it was all about Snow White, and now everything is about Ariel from The Little Mermaid. With the news breaking this week that Sofia Coppola is in talks to direct a new Little Mermaid film, I’m getting excited to see what kind of world Coppola will come up with, and who will play her red-haired sea maiden. I guess my daughter is one on-the-pulse 5-year-old. Here, a slideshow of ten items that will transport you under the sea.
Over lunch in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, Pookie Burch and her sister Louisa Burch sit in wonder as they recount the three-year journey that has transformed them from two girls with an idea to full-fledged brand owners of Trademark, their new sportswear label, which launches exclusively online next month. “We wanted to create something at an attainable price point with really simple, thought-out designs in classic and recognizable silhouettes,” Pookie, 29, tells Style.com.
Though the duo are first to admit that they’ve had help along the way—their brand is backed by father J. Christopher Burch’s investment company, Burch Creative Capital, while former stepmother Tory Burch is available for guidance—they’re also just two girls who are working hard to make their mark in fashion. “We learn best by making our own mistakes,” Louisa, 25, offers. “It’s been a process of understanding all the different steps it takes to get something to be where it should be.”
Trademark’s aesthetic is an extension of the pair’s own collective fashion experience, which includes summers spent in Nantucket searching for the consummate sweater; scouring Tokyo or other exotic locales for inspiration (much to Pookie’s dismay, as she hates flying); collecting Breton-striped shirts (Louisa); or even eavesdropping on Chris or Tory’s phone calls during car rides from suburban Philadelphia, where they were raised, to New York.
Their stock will be replenished with new styles every month, and is comprised of beautifully constructed garments that reflect the girls’ reserve and practicality. For their first outing, the lookbook for which debuts exclusively here, sporty tech nylons, structured piqués, cotton poplins, and silks are fashioned into modern shirtdresses, full skirts, lightweight jackets, and suits inspired by American nostalgia and the modern art of Josef Albers, Donald Judd, and Barnett Newman. Accessories include resin and wood bangles, gold-plated brass and silver jewelry, and leather-worked sandals and handbags.
Their brand director, Alex Hawgood, is in charge of menswear, and has been with the duo since the beginning. “He’s the fourth Burch sister!” Pookie jokes. (The third, Izzie, recently completed her associate’s degree in fashion design at Parsons, but has no plans to join Trademark yet.)
In addition to the website launch, the pair are planning to open a boutique on Soho’s Grand Street in April—and they’re doing it all with an intimate team of ten full-time employees, most of whom are under the age of 30. “Our working environment is really relaxed,” Pookie says of their Chelsea headquarters. “There are a lot of sneakers…sneakers and dogs.” Louisa’s quick to interject, “Please don’t get her started on her dog!” They may be retail moguls in the making, but sisters till the very end.
Trademark’s e-commerce site www.trade-mark.com will launch mid-February 2014. Prices range from $28 to $440.