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July 30 2014

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9 posts tagged "Tracey Emin"

Fendi’s Power Women Take on the Peekaboo

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Fendi Peekaboo

If you had any doubts that Fendi was one of the coolest brands on the block, they should be laid to rest. The house behind some of the most whimsical, luxuriously irreverent takes on fur around (coats dripping 24-karat gold and fur-embellished buggie bag charms, anyone?) is now collaborating with one very formidable group of power women on a series of DIY-styled, ultra-customized bags. The Peekaboo project—launching with an online auction this Thursday beginning at 6 p.m. GMT and the opening of a new London Fendi store on Friday—enlists the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Tracey Emin, Cara Delevingne, Adele, Jerry Hall, Georgia May Jagger, Zaha Hadid, and more to add their takes to the house’s Peekaboo purse, with the guiding design of Silvia Venturini Fendi.

“The Peekaboo has always been associated with strong iconic women since its creation,” Venturini Fendi told Style.com of the bag, which was introduced for Spring ’09. “We loved the idea to involve women, each of them an icon in her own field of competence. Iconic women working on an iconic bag.” Each of the custom bags—which range from a simple white crocodile version by Paltrow to actress Naomie Harris’ leather satchel imprinted with a butterfly-covered map of Africa (a “message of love and freedom,” said Venturini Fendi)—will be auctioned off to benefit Kids Company, a charity providing support to more than 36,000 inner-city kids in London and Bristol. “We wanted to do something special and unique on the occasion of Fendi’s new boutique opening in New Bond Street,” explained Venturini Fendi. “On one side, we wanted to give back to the British community, and on the other, to celebrate the iconic Peekaboo bag, a bag that since its creation in 2008 was conceived for a total customization, and even more so now with the new MTO service available in the New Bond Street boutique.”

Fendi Peekaboo

“The main reason I was attracted to the project was because it was raising money for Kids Company, which I think is a fantastic charity,” related Adele, who created a rather cheeky take on this season’s Bag Bug Peekaboo. “The fact that I got to design a handbag was just an added bonus—I got quite carried away and could easily enjoy designing handbags forever.”

Architect Zaha Hadid saw the project as lending wings to her broader creative practice. “Designing these smaller pieces is of great importance to us, as they inspire our creativity, giving us an opportunity to express our ideas on a different scale and through a different media, while helping to raise awareness and funding for a wonderful cause that supports so many children in the U.K.,” she said.

“I really hope this joining forces between women—Fendi itself is also a company created by women for women, from my grandmother to my mother and aunts, now me and also my daughter—will bring amazing results and proceeds for the online auction to benefit Kids Company,” concluded Venturini Fendi. “We left [our collaborators] to express their own creativity without limits, and thanks to our amazing artisans, we were able to make their dreams become reality. Because at Fendi our motto is ‘Nothing is impossible.’”

Photos: Courtesy of FendiĀ 

Twenty-Four Years Later, Amanda Wakeley Gets Her Mayfair Dream Store

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Elizabeth Hurley and Amanda WakeleyOne of the few who has dressed both Kate Middleton and Princess Diana, never mind a passel of stars including Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson, Florence Welch, and more, Brit designer Amanda Wakeley is a twenty-four-year veteran in the business. At her celeb-dense shop opening last night on London’s Albemarle Street, she described how she’s seen the fashion landscape in The Smoke change over the years.

“It is very competitive now, and there is a much greater choice of outstanding products at all levels of the market—plus the customer is far more discerning.” Wakeley also believes designers have stepped up their marketing game. “There is much more awareness of brand DNA—an integral part of building a successful business.”

Despite having a career and longevity most designers could only dream of, Wakeley insists that now is the most exciting time for her, especially with achieving a lifelong ambition of opening a Mayfair shop. This one is even Grade 2 listed, which means, in Brit speak, that it has historical significance. “It is such a privilege to be in a building with such heritage and structure…the staircase was put in by a couturier in the twenties, and I just knew this was the space for us.”

Tracey Emin, Liz Hurley, Elizabeth Saltzman, the BFC’s Caroline Rush, and more crushed into the shop that Wakeley says is representative of the “beginning of a new era for us.” Next on the docket is a return to the London fashion week schedule after a few seasons’ hiatus.

So after dressing the crème de la crème, who is left on her wish list? “Well, I do think Jennifer Lawrence has a wonderful look.” We have a sneaking suspicion the star will be wearing Dior to the Oscars, but who knows what the red carpet may bring.

Britain’s Boys Are Back in Town

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It’s been a big week for the London Collections: Men, with Rag & Bone and Pringle of Scotland announcing that they would join the likes of Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry in presenting during the city’s third menswear showcase this June. “I think London is pretty much the home of menswear. Look at Savile Row and the great heritage we have. We invented the suit!” said Dylan Jones—the editor in chief of British GQ and the chair of London’s men’s collections—at an event at the British Residence in New York last night. The occasion, which drew the likes of BFC chief executive Caroline Rush, Dominic Jones, Nasir Mazhar, Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Lou Dalton, and more, marked the announcement of London’s Spring 2014 menswear schedule. The lineup includes the above-mentioned international brands, as well as talents like Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, and James Long. Long, fresh out of the London Showrooms, which visited New York this week, offered, “When I started menswear in London, we had to struggle to have a voice. It was very behind womenswear. Now, all these supportive people have made [London menswear] happen, and it’s so funny being in New York and having menswear be the focus.” Caroline Rush concurred. “The womenswear designers have great recognition, but to put that spotlight on these incredible menswear brands is really important,” she said.

One might wonder why the British Fashion Council chose to reveal the London menswear roster in Manhattan rather than on its home turf. “We’re here tonight…because so many New York designers have supported us since we launched 18 months ago,” said Jones in his speech, noting that Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and more had all lent a hand. He added that Tommy Hilfiger, David Furnish, Tracey Emin, and Details magazine will all be throwing “amazing” parties during the upcoming shows, which will run from June 16 to 18. “When [everyone] goes over to Milan, they’re going to have one hell of a hangover,” he laughed. The complete Spring 2014 London Collections: Men schedule is available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.

Photo: Charles Moriarty

London Parties For Fashion Week, With Dinner, Drinks, And A Few Well-Placed Torsos

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You don’t get to much shopping in the course of a busy day of London fashion-week shows. But last night, two of the city’s marquee boutiques found another way to welcome fashion weekers to town: Over in Chelsea, Joseph was hosting dinner at the store’s Joe’s Café, and back in the center of town, Browns had set up shop in the Royal Academy vaults to celebrate the store’s launch of Club Monaco in the U.K.

First, dinner. Joseph served up a nicely British repast of beet carpaccio and sea bream, one partaken of by Charles Anastase, Pat McGrath, Tamara Mellon, and Katie Hillier, as well as acclaimed chef and British-cuisine cheerleader Mark Hix. Meanwhile, over at Browns, where the likes of Tracey Emin and Sophia Hesketh could be found, Hix’s team of mixologists from his pop-up Speak Easy were treating guests to high-class cocktails, including a dangerous dark-cherry-flavored concoction. The spirit at Browns was a bit more Frenchified: The party’s host was Lou Doillon (left), and Le Baron’s André Saraiva had hopped the Channel to deejay. Or perhaps the mood was more transcontinental, what with Club Monaco being an American-owned brand, and the after-party going down at London’s recently opened outpost of the Box. Welcome to the global village.

Best to down another cherry cocktail, stop thinking about geography, and start looking at the art decorating the scene. The Royal Academy vaults had never before been opened to a private event, and the sculpture-strewn space may have been the real star of last night’s party. Vaguely creepy and seriously cool was the general verdict, and designer Saloni Lodha, who had presented her collection the previous day, was already making plans to relocate her show to the Royal Academy next season. “You think they’d let me do it?” she mused, staring up at a bank of muscular stone torsos hanging off one wall. “I mean, I don’t even know how Browns managed to pull this off. I didn’t even know this was down here!” As Doillon might have noted, après moi, le deluge.

Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

Naughty Nicoll

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The decor at London’s new House of Voltaire pop-up shop, sponsored by the nonprofit Studio Voltaire gallery and nestled above footwear designer Rupert Sanderson’s Mayfair flagship, is traditional. The merchandise you’ll find there? Not so much.

Designed by the young U.K.-based architecture firm 6a, the shop is meant to evoke a Victorian Bond Street boutique, with rich hunter green walls and classic white-paned windows. But its stock, curated by Studio Voltaire’s artistic director, Joe Scotland, would raise Victorian eyebrows. Take Richard Nicoll’s tees and scarves, created in collaboration with the feminist artist Linder Sterling. A new spin on the graphic-printed dresses the duo turned out a few seasons back, the limited-edition items have a collage of shots from vintage porn, modestly covered up by blossoming flowers. “Porn in the seventies and early eighties was a lot more romantic than it is now,” Nicoll offered about his risqué inspiration. “Linder and I both wanted to support the charity, but on a selfish note, this was an opportunity to have a bit of fun and create something that my friends and I might want to wear. And it’s completely different from your average day designing womenswear.” (Are erotically themed shirts enjoying a moment right now? The Nicoll/Sterling tees call to mind the sexy Robert Mapplethorpe-screened ones Chloë Sevigny included in her Resort ’11 collection for Opening Ceremony.)

Reserved shoppers shouldn’t fear, though. The Studio Voltaire shop has plenty of more subdued items, too, from a brick-printed jacquard suit by the installation artist Anthea Hamilton to a teapot by YBA star Tracey Emin. Her most famous piece may have been a tent embroidered with the names of her lovers, but schoolmarms can rest easy. Sometimes a teapot is just a teapot.

House of Voltaire is open through December 4 at 19 Burton Place, London.

Photo: Courtesy of Studio Voltaire