5 posts tagged "Trademark"
With a family name like Burch, if you’re going to make a foray into fashion, it had better be a good one. And with their newly launched sportswear brand, Trademark, sisters Pookie and Louisa (daughters of J. Christopher and former stepdaughters of Tory) have done just that. Since early this year, they’ve been turning out quietly arty clothes (Donald Judd’s work is a major Trademark design touchstone) that wouldn’t look out of place alongside Jil Sander or Céline, but which all clock in around $100 to $500 a piece. And now they are placing the finishing touches on their first boutique, set to bow in Soho at 95 Grand Street during the start of New York fashion week.
A brick-and-mortar location was always in the cards since, as Pookie says, “We really wanted to be able to express the entire world around Trademark. And the location was what we’d been looking for: There was foot traffic, but it was still more interesting. The space has a lot of special details about it, and it just had the right energy.” Swedish stark-meister Andreas Bozarth Fornell’s firm, Bozarthfornell Architects, whose client list reads like an industry who’s-cool (Acne Studios, Opening Ceremony, Kenzo), was brought in to design the shop. “It was all about having this beautiful, minimal space with clean lines that felt very modern but still a little bit nostalgic and touching on the classic elements,” says Louisa.
Also on the duo’s docket for autumn? Their first official ad campaign, lensed by British youngblood Jamie Hawkesworth. His beautifully uneasy fine-art work has earned him a commercial résumé that includes the likes of Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, and Loewe—as well as the longtime admiration of the Burch sisters. For Trademark’s Fall imagery (which debuts exclusively on Style.com), Hawkesworth, stylist Sara Moonves, and a bare-bones crew headed to Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Models were street cast and shot in barns and against the rural backdrops of the prevalently Amish area. The end result is a dreamy tension between the pastoral and the decidedly present-day. “We thought the landscape was really special. And we also felt like we wanted to do something that Jamie was comfortable with and was excited about,” says Louisa. “And I think for Jamie, he loves to photograph real people.”
Trademark, 95 Grand Street, New York. For more information, visit trade-mark.com.
Summer doesn’t officially start for another month, but Memorial Day weekend more or less feels like the beginning of the season. Some of us are heading East for barbecues in Montauk and Amagansett, while others are taking advantage of the long weekend by jetting off to more tropical locales. Regardless of your destination (or lack thereof), we’re inspired to celebrate the American holiday in style with nautical details. In more subdued shades like coral and sky blue, preppy marinière stripes, rope details, and flat espadrilles look more sailboat-chic than straight-up patriotic. Shop our favorite nautical pieces by Trademark, Illesteva, Kenzo, and more, below.
1. Adia Kibur faux pearl rope necklace, $80, available at shopbop.com
2. Illesteva Leonard round-frame acetate sunglasses, $280, available at net-a-porter.com
3. Trademark Carson shirt, $138, available at trade-mark.com
4. Soludos stripe sandals, $55, available at shopbop.com
5. Kenzo miniskirt, $510, available at thecorner.com
New York City-based sisters Pookie and Louisa Burch launched Trademark, a full range of American sportswear for women, in February of this year to rave reviews. Inspired by Donald Judd, Josef Albers, and Barnett Newman, the clothes are nostalgic while still being very modern. The new men’s collection, which launched this week, is much like the women’s: cool, wearable, and thoughtful. It’s a focused range of refined athletic shorts, striped T-shirts, mélange sweaters, and rubberized windbreakers—sophisticated and technical but also affordable.
We spoke with the brand director, Alex Hawgood, about the new men’s collection and the Trademark’s plans for a store in Soho.
Was a men’s collection always part of the plan for Trademark?
Yes, Trademark was always conceived as a complete lifestyle brand. There is a utilitarian and pragmatic approach to Trademark’s identity that unifies both the men’s and the women’s collection. For spring, we launched the men’s as a smaller capsule collection with a tightly edited offering. Trademark is still a very small team operationally, but the more I thought about the pieces that make up a man’s wardrobe, the more it made sense to keep the collection small and considered. No guy needs a thousand more new options in his life.
I think the color palette that was used is really nice. What was that inspired by?
Color is something very important to the Trademark brand as a whole, from the packaging to the website. We never want to use color in an overdone pop way, but rather in a very thought-out but slightly experimental way. Trademark is an American brand, so we wanted to reference great American figures that used color in a very bold but precise way, like Barnett Newman or Anni Albers.
Do you have a favorite piece? I really like the Olympia long-sleeve T-shirt. It reminds me of something you would wear sailing.
We wanted to do an iconic logo shirt but have it feel familiar in a nostalgic way. It’s actually the only piece in either the women’s or men’s collection that features our logo. I like the Olympia shirt in cream and the Data windbreaker jacket that comes in a rubberized nylon that feels like crinkled paper.
Can you tell me a little bit more about the upcoming store in New York?
The store, designed by the firm Bozarthfornell Architects—they’re based out of Stockholm—is opening in June. It’s an incredible space—an interpretation of iconic minimalist American design as seen through a Swedish perspective. It’s a space that both men and women will feel equally comfortable in.
Photos by Jeff Henrikson / Collages by Joe Garvey
We’ve seen metallics all over the Fall runways: Think Rodarte’s Lurex coats, Saint Laurent’s gold leather minidress, Pedro Lourenço’s pencils skirts, and beyond. Naturally, this has inspired me to add metallic to my wardrobe. I’ve already succeeded in the accessories department, but I still wanted a piece of clothing. To my surprise, at a market appointment, I found exactly what I was searching for: the perfect bronze dress from the Burch sisters’ new contemporary brand, Trademark. The label also has great cotton skirts and tops, and nothing costs more than $500. Trademark’s simple aesthetic is what I was immediately drawn to. I’m planning on wearing this frock during the day with a chunky wedge or at night with a simple sandal.
Trademark shirtdress, $228. For more information, visit trade-mark.com.
Over lunch in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, Pookie Burch and her sister Louisa Burch sit in wonder as they recount the three-year journey that has transformed them from two girls with an idea to full-fledged brand owners of Trademark, their new sportswear label, which launches exclusively online next month. “We wanted to create something at an attainable price point with really simple, thought-out designs in classic and recognizable silhouettes,” Pookie, 29, tells Style.com.
Though the duo are first to admit that they’ve had help along the way—their brand is backed by father J. Christopher Burch’s investment company, Burch Creative Capital, while former stepmother Tory Burch is available for guidance—they’re also just two girls who are working hard to make their mark in fashion. “We learn best by making our own mistakes,” Louisa, 25, offers. “It’s been a process of understanding all the different steps it takes to get something to be where it should be.”
Trademark’s aesthetic is an extension of the pair’s own collective fashion experience, which includes summers spent in Nantucket searching for the consummate sweater; scouring Tokyo or other exotic locales for inspiration (much to Pookie’s dismay, as she hates flying); collecting Breton-striped shirts (Louisa); or even eavesdropping on Chris or Tory’s phone calls during car rides from suburban Philadelphia, where they were raised, to New York.
Their stock will be replenished with new styles every month, and is comprised of beautifully constructed garments that reflect the girls’ reserve and practicality. For their first outing, the lookbook for which debuts exclusively here, sporty tech nylons, structured piqués, cotton poplins, and silks are fashioned into modern shirtdresses, full skirts, lightweight jackets, and suits inspired by American nostalgia and the modern art of Josef Albers, Donald Judd, and Barnett Newman. Accessories include resin and wood bangles, gold-plated brass and silver jewelry, and leather-worked sandals and handbags.
Their brand director, Alex Hawgood, is in charge of menswear, and has been with the duo since the beginning. “He’s the fourth Burch sister!” Pookie jokes. (The third, Izzie, recently completed her associate’s degree in fashion design at Parsons, but has no plans to join Trademark yet.)
In addition to the website launch, the pair are planning to open a boutique on Soho’s Grand Street in April—and they’re doing it all with an intimate team of ten full-time employees, most of whom are under the age of 30. “Our working environment is really relaxed,” Pookie says of their Chelsea headquarters. “There are a lot of sneakers…sneakers and dogs.” Louisa’s quick to interject, “Please don’t get her started on her dog!” They may be retail moguls in the making, but sisters till the very end.
Trademark’s e-commerce site www.trade-mark.com will launch mid-February 2014. Prices range from $28 to $440.