August 23 2014

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6 posts tagged "Trussardi"

Beyond the Arty Parties: A Look Inside the Venice Biennale


Massimiliano Gioni at the Trussardi partyThings must once have been so much easier for the social set. They simply followed the sun. But in the past few weeks alone, the bold-type butterflies have winged from Frieze in New York to the film festival in Cannes—with diversions to Monte Carlo for the Dior Resort show and the Grand Prix—and, now, to Venice, where the Biennale, the senior citizen of international art events, swung into gear with three preview days. They launched with the New Museum’s dinner on Tuesday night for its director of exhibitions, Massimiliano Gioni (left), who is not only the curator of this year’s Biennale but also the artistic director of the Nicola Trussardi Foundation in Milan. On Thursday night, it was the Trussardis’ turn to host a party in honor of Gioni. Jessica Chastain and Leonardo DiCaprio were among the guests. Bridging the two evenings was an opening at the Fondazione Prada of an exhibition that fetishistically re-creates, down to the size of the rooms in the original, a watershed show from the Kunsthalle Bern in 1969.

All in all, the preview days perfectly captured the swirling symbiosis of art, film, and fashion that is currently gilding popular culture with a hectic glamour. But even the movie stars couldn’t deflect the spotlight from the 39-year-old Gioni, who, with charisma to spare, has hitched his own star to the venerable wagon of the Biennale, in the process creating the kind of art happening that people will buzz about for years—or at least for the rest of 2013 (it closes November 24).

Marino Aurtiri's installation at the Venice Biennale

If you have the great good fortune to make it to Venice this summer, you’ll be able to experience Gioni’s recasting of contemporary art as something playful, wondrous, mythic. His launchpad—and the title he has given his curatorial effort—is The Encyclopedic Palace. In 1955, an Italian immigrant named Marino Auriti imagined a towering structure covering sixteen blocks on the National Mall in Washington, DC, where all the world’s knowledge could be stored (above). The scale model Auriti built is the centerpiece of Gioni’s exhibition in the Arsenale, the complex of ancient warehouses and armories that is one of the Biennale’s “official” locations. So powerful is Auriti’s concept that it immediately strikes an obsessive, fantastical, almost dreamlike chord, which echoes not just through the Arsenale but through the work of the dozens of artists Gioni has curated in the huge central pavilion of the Giardini, the municipal gardens that are the Biennale’s other focal point. In fact, that chord is so insanely irresistible (literally—the obsession bordering on madness of outsider art is one of the dominant sensibilities on display) that it seemed to infect the exhibitions staged in the international pavilions that encircled Gioni’s playground. These ambassadorial exercises in aesthetics (picture a World’s Fair of art) are often heavy-going, but I tried to imagine what kids would make of Jeremy Deller’s murals and bird-of-prey movie in the UK pavilion, or Vadim Zakharov’s huge showerhead raining gold coins down on the crowd in the Russian pavilion (below), or Mathias Poledna’s three-minute cartoon in the Austrian pavilion, which revives Disney’s labor-intensive pre-digital animation of the late thirties and early forties to gorgeous, disturbing effect. I felt like a kid myself looking at these things, thrilled, enthralled, slightly derailed, but refreshed of vision. Continue Reading “Beyond the Arty Parties: A Look Inside the Venice Biennale” »

Umit Benan Departs Trussardi


Rumors that designer Umit Benan would depart Trussardi, where he has served as creative director for two years, were swirling around Milan last week. The designer presented a well-received Fall ’13 womenswear collection for the Italian house on February 23, but today it was announced that Benan and Trussardi will indeed be parting ways. Trussardi disclosed that the split was consensual and comes at the natural end of the designer’s contract. In addition to having worked with Trussardi, Benan designs an eponymous menswear collection, which he shows in Milan.

Photo: Filippo Fior/InDigital/GoRunway

Model Slash: Boxer Jake Shortall


Jake Shortall is a model you don’t want to mess with. Before he was discovered at a nightclub earlier this year (which has its downsides: “I didn’t remember him when he called the next day,” he says of the agent who scouted him), Shortall was just an average 18-year-old Liverpudlian whose hobbies included stirring up trouble with his mates, listening to hip hop, and training in Muay Thai boxing. “It’s crazy because when I was 15, I thought I would never leave Liverpool,” he tells “But I’ve only been home for one week in the past eight months.” During that time, the six-foot-two redhead has gone from striking, sparring, and kicking to walking top runways including Dior, Lanvin, Trussardi, Neil Barrett, and Kris Van Assche, among others. Shorthall has also racked up an impressive portfolio of editorials and campaigns. Catch him in the Steven Meisel-lensed “Prom Night” series in the April issue of Vogue Italia, on the current cover of Vogue Hommes Japan, and in the new Pringle of Scotland ads. (Despite being immersed in fashion now, he admits he has never really cared much for clothes and gives designer gifts away to his mom or friends.)

But long before life in the limelight, Shortall started boxing at age seven as a safeguard against playground bullies, and he eventually switched over to Muay Thai. “I was getting kind of bored with regular boxing and needed something new,” he says. Muay Thai is “mixed martial arts minus the jiu-jitsu part,” he says: where traditional boxers only use their two fists, Thai boxers have eight points of contact so you can punch, kick, jab, block, and strike with your knees and elbows as well. Needless to say, it can get pretty brutal. “I’ve broken three of my ribs, lots of fingers and toes,” Shortall says. He’s delivered the pain, too: “I definitely used one of the technical kicks in the streets once on this guy,” he says. “Wait, that’s going to sound so bad! It was totally unexpected and out of self defense.” His agency has banned him from boxing for the moment to preserve that money-making face, but he plans to return to it “sooner rather than later.”

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Where Do You Stand On Shorts Suits?


The menswear phenomenon has been going strong for quite some time, so shorts suits have been on the periphery of our trend radar (see Diane Kruger in Jason Wu Resort). But designers really pushed the two-piecers into the spotlight on the Spring runways. While Carven‘s Guillaume Henry and Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez cut upper-thigh-grazing versions that are decidedly NSFW, there were others, like Prabal Gurung and Trussardi‘s Umit Benan, who showed more forgiving inseams. “I think a high-waisted, thigh-baring short is incredibly chic if you have the legs to rock it,” A.L.C. designer Andrea Lieberman told “But I’m also a huge fan of the knee-length city short and blazer—it’s all about confidence.” Amanda Seyfried had confidence to spare in her turquoise shorts suit from H&M at the London premiere of In Time—what a refreshing, rebellious change-up from an overworked gown. Our consensus: If you’ve got great legs, flaunt ‘em.

CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW, and let us know if you’ll play up your gams with shorts suits.

Photo: Marcus Tondo /

Milan Vukmirovic Prepares To Launch A Men’s Mag


Tommy Ton favorite Milan Vukmirovic, formerly of L’Officiel Hommes and Trussardi and currently of The Webster in Miami, was making the rounds at the men’s shows last month. But it was no buying trip. Vukmirovic is launching a men’s fashion magazine of his own this October, and has just learned the name. Ready for it? Fashion For Men. “I wanted something really simple and international,” Vukmirovic told us. “It’s about real clothes and real product, it’s time to come back to that.” Look for the English language mag on shelves during the Paris women’s shows.

Photo: Tommy Ton