9 posts tagged "Umit Benan"
In fall 2010, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana launched Spiga2, their boutique housing an artfully curated collection of young designers’ work. The idea was to create a space to nurture fashion designers on the rise, like Sophie Theallet, Behnaz Sarafpour, and Peter Jensen, and have fun at the same time with a DJ, videos, and free wireless Internet on hand to entertain visitors.
After the success of the first round, they are spreading the wealth once more to a newly selected group of designers, announced today. Their fall 2011 list is a collection of over 40 designers hailing from around the globe, including familiar names like returning designer Yigal Azrouël, Ohne Titel by Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, Kevork Kiledjian, and Felder Felder (from twin sisters Daniela and Annette Felder), as well as names lesser-known in the U.S., like Greece’s Fani Xenophontos, Russia’s Sergei Grinko, and Italy’s Comeforbreakfast.
Another name that stands out on the list: Italian-based designer Umit Benan, who originally worked under Theallet at François Nars’ Motu Tane label and Marc Jacobs. Just last month, the Turkish/German designer, who had editors raving at Milan men’s fashion week, was announced as Milan Vukmirovic’s replacement at Trussardi.
The vacancy left by Milan Vukmirovic’s departure at Trussardi has been filled—and not a moment too soon. The Italian label announced officially today that Umit Benan, whose menswear has been a highlight of Milan men’s fashion week, will design both men’s and women’s collections for the house as its “fashion consultant,” beginning with the Spring ’12 menswear show on June 19. Before launching his own line in 2009, the Turkish/German designer worked at Marc Jacobs, under Sophie Théallet at François Nars’ Motu Tane label, and with Rifat Ozbek at Pollini. He’ll continue to produce his eponymous collection. For a hint of what’s to come for the Spring ’12 Umit Benan line, see our menswear preview.
Plenty of celebs were snapped at Coachella last weekend, but the picture that got the most play was the one of Kanye West in women’s Spring 2011 Celine. Our first thought: Was Dan Gainor notified? (Gainor, in case you missed “Toemaggedon,” is one of the conservative media critics who criticized J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons for painting her son’s toes pink, calling it “gender-bending.”) Our second: You gotta give Kanye credit; he’s got great taste in girls’ clothes. He’s not alone. Lately, we’ve noticed a lot of men sporting women’s runway looks. Take Andrew Mukamal, current sittings assistant at Seventeen and former employee of Kelly Cutrone, and wearer of Balenciaga and Proenza Schouler. “It’s pretty simple,” he said, explaining his interest in fashion designed for the opposite sex. “Women have more options. Their collections explore different shapes, fabrics, prints, colors, proportions. Menswear collections don’t go there.” Some women might beg to differ, though. On the flip side, we’ve recently noticed a few fashionable girls succumbing to the allure of a well-cut men’s jacket, starting with Anna Dello Russo in Umit Benan and Taylor Tomasi Hill in Comme des Garçons.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of our favorite girl-for-boy and boy-for-girl pics, and let us know if we missed anyone.
The Pitti foundation, which supports and promotes new fashion talent, waved its wand over two names this season: shoe designer Max Kibardin (his cowhide clogs were an indelible image) and Umit Benan, who produced his first-ever live show for his Fall men’s collection, called Retired Rockers. It was basically a tableau vivant: Around a dinner table sat a group of seasoned older guys with a couple of young ‘uns and some beautiful women (also, of course, substantially younger) thrown into the mix, and around them sat the audience, looking on uncertainly as the diners made merry. The music was Dire Straits but the vibe was Stones all the way—a kind of worn-out glamour, eccentric elegance, comfort, the degree of connoisseurship that appreciates Nice Things, but, mostly, clothes for men who feel they don’t have to prove anything anymore. “The dressing gown at the end of the driveway,” as Benan put it, obligingly offering some full-length wrap coats in plaid cashmere. But the designer is also a master of no-slouch tailoring, and there was plenty of that, too. As for the appeal of these grizzled old survivors? “There’s experience in older faces,” Benan said before the show. “A young guy’s just a kid for me.” That’s him on the right, above, not much more than a kid himself.