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September 1 2014

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1 posts tagged "Union LA"

From Streetwear to Workwear, OAMC Is Where It’s At

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Former head of Supreme Luke Meier has assembled a streetwear dream team. The designer has launched the first major collection for his label OAMC, formerly known as Over All Master Cloth, for Spring ’14, and he recruited an impressive crew of heavy hitters to help out. Union LA proprietor Chris Gibbs; Matthew Boulé, the former sales director from Visvim; and Arnaud Faeh, the former creative direct of Carhartt Work in Progress, are all on Team OAMC. “I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with a lot of exceptional brands and people in this industry,” Meier says.

At first glance the collection is familiar enough, with outerwear as the anchor—think chore coats, four-pocket parkas, a soft-shoulder blazer, and a crisp cotton bomber. Meier prides himself on intense involvement in the entire process. “I am not only involved in the design but am also working closely with fabric and material suppliers and makers in their environments to develop our products,” he says. The line’s roots in workwear are evident, but Meier says it’s not just the aesthetic he’s interested in, it’s the approach to design. “The way that workwear has been historically made is through the analysis of functionality, which is what we find relevant. Our goal is to pair this type of design approach with a high aesthetic sensibility.”

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From that sentiment come the details that make OAMC unique. “For example,” Meier says, “The triple-needle stitch is an innovation in workwear that was developed as a way to reinforce a garment’s construction. This detail is also something that looks good when used in the right way, with the right fabrics.” The otherwise ordinary-seeming chore coat comes to life with a painted chest stripe. For the bomber and parka, Meier used special bonded three-layer fabrics for durability and protection from the elements. Workshirts are made using a welding process for a threadless-seam construction. All of it is made in Italy and Portugal using Italian and Japanese fabrics.

Meier’s musings on his brand are just as meticulous and calculated as the clean, purpose-built clothes themselves. “We just want our products to have a correct value that corresponds to the make and fabrication we use.” But it’s clear that behind his analytical approach is an intuitive mind that understands the magic of how things can come together. Start with the cultural sensibility of Supreme, add Visvim’s attention to detail, Carhartt’s heritage in crafting timeless workwear, and then get your product into the right hands, starting at Union LA, where the collection is currently available.

Photos: Courtesy Photos