10 posts tagged "VFILES"
Instagram has dubbed Paris fashion week #PaRih. Why? Because while trotting from one show to the next, the pop sensation has completely stolen the style spotlight. That sophisticated gray look she wore to Lanvin? That sheer fishnet number she rocked post-Balmain? The cherry red fur she donned at Dior? We’ll go so far as to say she’s been flawless through and through. Team Style.com’s favorite outfit, however, was the one she sported to Comme des Garçons. It was a mash-up of wares by three emerging talents: Adam Selman (her River Island co-designer), Melitta Baumeister, and Hyein Seo. The latter two were featured in the VFiles Made Fashion show in February, and Riri’s choice to wear Baumeister’s oversize pleather jacket and Seo’s faux-fur “Fear” stole will no doubt help catapult these up-and-comers to stardom. “I think it was our best look of the week,” Rihanna’s stylist, Mel Ottenberg, told Style.com. “Melitta’s coat was one of the greatest coats of the season, even if a lot of people haven’t heard of her yet. That whole collection blew my mind. And Hyein Seo; I was flipping through Style.com, showed Rihanna pictures, and she loved it. She was totally amazed and wanted to wear the fur with a look from Adam [Selman]‘s collection.”
Naturally, the designers are over the moon about bad gal Riri scooping up their Fall ’14 styles. “It’s a reassurance that you’re doing something that people are reacting to,” said Baumeister, who has also dressed Lady Gaga. “And Rihanna is such a great star to wear it. It really proves that the collection is relevant to what’s going on right now.”
VFiles founder and CEO Julie Anne Quay shared Baumeister’s excitement—after all, she helped select Baumeister and Seo for the fashion platform’s Fall runway romp. “Rihanna wearing those designers shows that she believes in the next generation and the future of fashion,” Quay said. “And the fact that she would go to a Comme des Garçons show in that, where everyone around her is wearing Comme or Chanel, I mean, that’s a statement.”
When asked if that statement was intentional, Ottenberg offered, “When there’s a great moment to chose something unknown, it makes us really happy for the designer. It’s fun to do something that not everybody else is doing. Comme des Garçons is a huge supporter of young talent, and it felt right. It was one of those chances to do whatever we wanted.”
As for the future plans of Riri’s rising stars, Selman is storming the fashion sphere after his breakout sophomore presentation last month; Seo is wrapping up her master’s degree at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp; and Baumeister is aiming to hold her debut solo show next New York fashion week. “I hope it will be possible. I’m just going to have to make it happen somehow,” said the Parsons M.A. fashion grad. We have a feeling that she’ll persevere.
Back in September VFiles launched the raucous runway rave that is its user-generated fashion show. Last time around, the jam-packed affair afforded four emerging brands (chosen by the online community’s users and a panel of VFiles judges) the chance to present their Spring ’14 collections at New York fashion week. “We believe in the future of fashion,” VFiles founder Julie Anne Quay told us after the inaugural outing. “And the future of fashion is online.”
VFiles’ experiment continues for Fall ’14, and today, Style.com can exclusively reveal the three rising stars who’ve been voted into the sophomore show. First up is Melitta Baumeister. We initially met this German-born, New York-based talent last season when she opened the Parsons MFA runway with an impressive collection of sculptural white silicone looks. She’ll be joined by ASSK, a cerebral, Paris-based streetwear label by Australians Sarah Schofield and Agatha Kowalewski, and Hyein Seo, a South Korean womenswear designer who’s currently pursuing her master’s in fashion at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In addition to sending their Fall ’14 collections down the catwalk at Eyebeam Studios, the three lucky winners will be flown to New York pre-fashion week to receive mentoring from famed stylists Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele and Mel Ottenberg. Check back in on February 5 to view our full coverage of the VFiles fashion show—and if it’s anything like last season’s, we’re in for a wild treat.
In hopes of promoting a calm and renewed start to 2014, Olivia Kim opens her third curated pop-in for Nordstrom today. “It’s the New Year, it’s a recharge, it’s time to regroup and get yourself together,” Kim says of the new project, which she’s aptly dubbed “New Beginnings.” “That’s really the premise behind [New Beginnings], to offer things that are a little more reflective, that feel a little more personal…things that could help people literally realize their resolutions.”
There are organic cleaning supplies and Dyson vacuum cleaners for those who have pledged to be tidier. For customers who have dedicated their 2014s to getting in shape, there are workout clothes with an edge from Michi, as well as Jawbone Up wristbands that track health patterns. And shoppers who want a full-on makeover need look no further than the colorful Manic Panic beauty products and KORA Organics by Miranda Kerr creams.
New Beginnings also pays homage to celestial movements and astrology with organic jewelry and energy crystals from Gia Bahm’s Unearthen, zodiac sweatshirts by VFiles, and, at a few lucky locations, free chart readings by celebrated astrologists Tali and Ophira Edut (aka The AstroTwins). “I’m a Virgo but a Capricorn rising, and my moon is in Aries,” Kim says, giggling. “Which means I’m a big hot mess, but then it all kind of makes sense!”
But lest we forget, Nordstrom is a clothing retailer, and Kim doesn’t skimp on her pop-in’s fashion. This time around, she’s stocking exclusive leather boots by Tabitha Simmons (complete with personalized notes from the designer), Sophia Webster clutches, Frame Denim jeans, and Kara leather purses.
All of New Beginning’s product selection remains true to Kim’s signature quirk, and will live in eight select stores (designed, again, by Rafael de Cárdenas) and online at Nordstrom.com from January 10 through February 9. As for next month, she’s looking forward to launching an “anti-Valentine’s”-themed pop-in curated around menswear called the “Heartbreaker’s Club.” Have a look at New Beginnings’ merch in Kim’s appropriately trippy film, which debuts exclusively here.
You may remember Steven Tai from Spring ’14′s VFiles show, where the 29-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate presented his crisp range of sporty, silkscreened looks. But winning a spot in the fashion platform’s debut runway event isn’t Tai’s only claim to fame. In fact, the talent, who’s based in London by way of Macao, had been making the rounds in Europe and Canada for over a year before the VFiles romp. In 2012, his visually simple but technically mind-boggling designs won the Chloe award at the prestigious Hyeres festival; he’s been invited to show everywhere from Berlin to Toronto; and he’s already amassed a healthy crop of international stockists, VFiles, Canada’s Holt Renfrew, and London’s 125 Brick Lane among them. Tai now seems poised for fashion stardom, so it’s somewhat ironic that he spent most of his childhood trying to escape the garment game.
“My family did manufacturing for very technical sportswear, like bicycle gear for triathlons,” Tai told Style.com by phone from Hong Kong, where he was researching techniques and textiles. “I grew up around seamstresses and, as a kid, clothing was like the last thing I wanted to do.” However, while earning his business degree in Canada, Tai had a revelation. “I realized that I wanted to do something creative, and at the same time, a friend actually introduced me to Style.com, and the archive just opened up this whole new world for me.”
He enrolled in London’s competitive Saint Martins’ BA program and, when the designer wasn’t in classroom, he did stints at Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan, and Damir Doma.
It’s easy to see that his mentors taught him well. Tai’s work is impeccably crafted using various, unexpected processes. For example, Spring ’14 incorporated laser cutting, silk screening, bonding, and puff paint accents, as well as a fractured pastoral motif. The latter was derived from photographs of a British bio-dome that were abstracted by artist Lola Dupré. “I’m always quite nostalgic for the past, so I wanted to start with something very traditional, and combine it with something technical and futuristic,” Tai explained of the lineup, which was inspired by cross-stitching and glitch art. As for his pared-down cuts, Tai offered, “At Saint Martins, nothing you can do is crazy enough. I learned from that, but it’s important to have a balance. Technology and textiles are the crazy parts of my collection. It’s all about these insane, complicated procedures, and the silhouette stays simple—otherwise, it gets a bit overwhelming.”
Fall ’14 will mark Tai’s first time presenting his wares in a Somerset House showroom at London fashion week. “The collection is a lot more deconstructed than last season,” he hinted. “The inspiration is shredded papers.” To tide fans over between the Spring and Fall drops, Tai has once again teamed up with Dupré, this time to create a range of Pre-Fall sweatshirts that will be available at select retailers and on Tai’s Web site this April. Priced between $296 and $740, the graphic, Swarovski crystal-embellished scuba jersey jumpers debut above, exclusively on Style.com.
VFiles—New York’s premiere destination for streetwear, swag, and the cutting edge—has met its match. The platform’s retail director, Zachary Ching, found a kindred spirit in Anna Trevelyan—the rainbow-haired stylist who serves as London boutique Machine-A‘s fashion director—when they sat side by side at the Fall ’13 Thierry Mugler show. The conversation that ensued led to a veritable shop-swap that kicks off during New York fashion week. “I was telling her a lot about my store, and she was telling me about hers, and we thought, ‘Let’s just trade lives for fashion week,’” Ching told Style.com. While VFiles focuses on all that is urban, and Machine-A prides itself on championing London’s experimental designers and up-and-comers, Trevelyan says that the stores are completely in sync. “Although the product and the brands stocked are different, the ethos is the same. We both want to give as much exposure as possible to the young designers we support, and the chance for a more international outreach for our designers really excited both of us.” The stores also share some common ground in their locations—they’re each based in their respective cities’ Soho districts, making them, as Trevelyan explains in the below clip, “global neighbors.”
Machine-A will take over the back portion of VFiles from September 3 through September 17 (the last day of London fashion week) and visa versa. Trevelyan is bringing brands like Alex Mattsson, Dr. Noki, Ashley Williams, and Kyle Hopkins to the Big Apple, and Ching will fill Machine-A with VFiles’ vintage collection, T-shirts by LPD New York, and wares from Hood by Air, including four limited-edition tops embellished with Swarovski crystals. “We haven’t figured out the price point yet, but they’re going to be super expensive,” laughed Ching when asked about the exclusive merch. On the more affordable front, the stores have created a range of co-branded sportswear—like basketball shorts, long-sleeve tees, duffel bags, and hoodies—which range from $30 to $90. The collaborative collection debuts exclusively here.
This switch-up ties into the stores’ long-term transatlantic plans, too. For instance, VFiles has picked up Alex Mattsson’s Spring ’14 menswear collection, and Machine-A will be stocking the new collection by Hood by Air. “I think it will be nice to take these first footsteps in London, because eventually we’d love to have a real store there,” offers Ching. But he adds, “It’s also about having a really fun party at the end of London fashion week. We’re super excited about that.”
V-Files is located at 12 Mercer St. in New York. Machine-A is set on 13 Brewer St. in London.