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September 1 2014

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7 posts tagged "Vincent Darre"

Yaz Bukey And Her Babes

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Pussycat Fight Club was the title Yaz Bukey gave to her Fall 2012 collection of tromp l’oeil accessories, which she revealed last night at her first-ever Paris fashion week presentation. At the dimly lit Maison Darré, the interiors shop of her friend, the set designer and creative director Vincent Darré, Bukey presented surreal, pop-inspired Plexiglas baubles, including flame rings, studded cuffs, and a sweet red heart chapeau, inspired by John Waters’ 1991 greaser parody Cry Baby. “The idea is that this space is a club, and in the hallway there are eight girls in love with Johnny Depp, who for this collection became ‘Johnny Beware.’ They’re all waiting for him desperately but he’ll never come, so it’s a pussycat fight club,” Bukey explained.

The theatrical designer didn’t shy away from inserting herself into the scenes. She transformed herself into nine different characters in the photographs that lined the walls, each decked out with her own Yazbukey accessories. There was, among others, Betty Oops (left), a naive bombshell crowned with a hat of flailing legs; tough and elegant Tina Wontcare (below left), who, in her studded pillbox and Plexiglas collar, can’t be bothered to fret over a man; Lacry Mama (below right), utterly heartbroken in her necklace of crying blue eyeballs and matching earrings; and Lola Romance, the picture of seduction with her red lip necklace, heart-shaped ear cuffs, and pouty pose. Of course, Bukey assumed the macho role of Johnny Beware, too. “He’s been with all the girls, so he’s wearing an accessory from each one of them!” she laughed.

Bukey—who, last night, looked like quite a character herself in a white nurse frock from Vuitton’s Spring 2008 Richard Prince collection, her new leg-motif necklace, and her geometric red cuffs—also revealed that she’s teamed up with scent marvels 12.29 on a candle, available in September. “The base of the scent is gasoline, red lipstick, hair spray, and leather. It’s going to be called Va-va-vroom!” she said. If that doesn’t lure Johnny Beware back to Bukey’s pussycat club, what will?

Photos: Courtesy of Yazbukey

An Assortment Of Books You Can Judge By Their Covers

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Just how does a girl secure the services of one of the hottest filmmakers on the planet? “Well, I was a bit cheeky,” admits Olympia Le-Tan. “I met Spike Jonze two summers ago through friends when I first started making my bags. When he called and asked if he could order some, I said yes—if he’d do a film for me.” It took the busy Jonze a few years to keep his promise, but the short, which features a skeleton with a knife stuck through its ribs and a sultry creature (who bears a more-than-passing resemblance to Le-Tan) cavorting in and out of the pages of her embroidered book bags, screened last night at her Fall presentation.

Given her literary aesthetic, what better venue could Le-Tan have chosen than Paris’ legendary Shakespeare & Company bookstore? Pals like Sarah Lerfel, Olivier Zahm, Vincent Darré, and John C. Reilly (in town shooting Roman Polanski’s Carnage with Kate Winslet and Jodie Foster) crowded into Shakespeare’s twisting aisles to inspect the designer’s faux books (and a few of the shop’s real ones, no doubt). This season’s collection, Housewives’ Choice, was inspired by midcentury ladies’ reading materials: not only classic novels about women, like Anna Karenina and Madame Bovary, but cookbooks, romance novels, and milk cartons, too.

” ‘Housewives’ Choice’ was a BBC radio program in the fifties,” Le-Tan explained, “and it’s also one of my favorite reggae songs, so there’s a double meaning.” A little old, a little new—much like the collection itself. “It’s a mix between the fifties housewife and the modern-day woman,” she went on. “I don’t have a husband and I’m working, but I am nostalgic about the days when women used to make a real effort to look nice and take care of their husbands, their house, and the kitchen.” She looked nice in a printed hourglass dress, and to underline the point, wore a crisp white apron tied around her waist.

At Castel In Paris, Toasting Kristin Scott Thomas And Looking Forward To Le Baron In NYC

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As Kristin Scott Thomas, sipping Cristal, stood in intense conversation with Phoebe Philo in the upstairs room at Castel in Paris last night, it was hard to imagine the actress dressed as a pineapple. That guise, among others, was one of many Thomas donned for a spread in the latest issue of French fashion mag Double, which Philo, along with Haider Ackermann, Leelee Sobieski, and Adam Kimmel, was at Castel to fête.

“I got the idea [for the costume] ages ago, when my daughter asked me to make her a pineapple costume for a party,” Thomas explained. “I didn’t know the first thing about how to do that, but the idea stuck in my mind.” That idea, or, more generally, Thomas’ love of disguise, was what led to the Double shoot: At Lanvin jewelry designer Elie Top’s birthday-cum-costume-party last year, the actress’ Amy Winehouse getup was so convincing that Double‘s Fabrice Paineau convinced Thomas to try out various dream roles in the magazine. The resulting spread, shot by Max Farago, imagines Thomas as Johnny Hallyday, avec moustache, a tight-lipped BCBG, and a hooker, along with a reprise of her Winehouse role.

As for parties in New York to look forward to, Vincent Darré—who co-hosted the bash with Thomas and styled the shoot—is currently putting the finishing touches Le Baron’s soon-to-open Big Apple outpost. “It’s in Chinatown and we designed it like a bordello from The Shanghai Gesture,” Darré said. Sounds suitably kinky.

Photo: Bruno Werzinski

DVF Goes Deep-Sea Diving At Maison Darré

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The first day of Paris fashion week is usually judged too early for a bash, but you’d never know it from the crowd that crammed into Vincent Darré’s tiny interiors shop, Maison Darré, yesterday. There—packed to the rafters, almost, and spilling into the street—were Catherine Deneuve, Diane von Furstenberg, Pierre Bergé, Christian Louboutin, Mario Testino, Victoire de Castellane, Olivier Zahm, Inès de la Fressange, Bruno Frisoni, and Silva Venturini Fendi and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi, who is presenting her accessories collection today. (Phew.)

“Sans Queue ni Tête” (a French expression meaning, basically, nonsensical) is the name of Darré’s latest silver and gold-leaf furniture collection, one that looks like 10,000 Leagues Under the Sea—as reinterpreted by Salvador Dalí, that is. Mirrors framed by catfish mouths and treated with silver for an ancient, foggy look, frog bedside tables, and wobbly chests of drawers were among the deep-sea fantasies. Darré was inspired, he said, by a bathroom order from a very eccentric private client. “I began to think about the lobsters Dalí designed for Schiaparelli, which she used for a dress. I started with a lobster jewelry holder… The collection just took off from there.” It was finding some very appreciative fans. Diane von Furstenberg, on the arm of M. Louboutin (left), was ogling a pair of wiggly bronze octopus sconces. “I think I want one of those,” she said before placing her order on the spot.

But even on a rare night off, fashion wasn’t far from the minds of most of the attendees. Elie Top, Lanvin’s jeweler extraordinaire, had stolen away from the house’s accessories atelier, where he’s been working nonstop on the last minute touches for Friday’s show, for a quick visit. “Look what happens when you spend too much time putting on rhinestones with a glue gun,” he joked, holding up his hands in dismay.

Photo: David Atlan

At Didier Ludot: Decades Of L.B.D.’s But No Lohan

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For Didier Ludot’s celebration last night for the tenth anniversary of his label La Petite Robe Noire, the fountains of the Palais Royal were scented with Eau Blanche by Francis Kurkdjian. Welcome to Paris. A selection of Ludot’s archives graced the windows of the galleries, tracing the history of the L.B.D.: a Chanel number from 1927, a Lanvin from 1935, a Grès from 1942, and so on with Balenciagas, Diors, and YSLs in the mix. The sartorial timeline ended with a very recent, as in two and a half weeks ago, vintage with a Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 look.

None of these beauties were for sale. Instead, Ludot sourced some more affordably priced vintage dresses for his L.B.D.-only boutique—about 30 of them have already sold—and is concentrating on his new, accessible DL Palais Royal collection. At the party, Ludot greeted friends like Chantal Thomass, Claude Montana, and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, while a rumored appearance by Lindsay Lohan had other guests in the crowd that included Alexis Mabille (pictured above) and former Emanuel Ungaro designer Vincent Darré, buzzing and lingering. The actress’ design partner, Estrella Archs, did show briefly. “I’m taking five minutes of air,” joked Archs. She and Lohan are still fine-tuning their process, she said, but promise a collection that draws upon the roots of Ungaro without going too literal. “We’re going for focused and purified with light dresses and a Mediterranean joie de vivre,” said Archs. “Tomorrow night’s the all-nighter.”