61 posts tagged "Vivienne Westwood"
Unlike nautical stripes, island prints, and other on-trend patterns, plaid is associated with a wide range of moods, people, and periods in time. There’s the stiff school uniform we begrudgingly wore throughout our childhood; the “hipster” flannel button-downs lining the shelves at Urban Outfitters; the patchwork madras shorts popular in beach towns out East; and even the old-world tartans of Scottish clansmen. However, as of late, our favorite iteration has been distinctly punk. Marked by slouchy sweaters, second-skin leggings, and clashing hues, this new plaid is intentionally at odds with its preppy past, calling to mind seventies-era Vivienne Westwood and the Met’s Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition. Worn with spikes, studs, and plenty of black leather, it feels more than appropriate for the upcoming transition into fall. Shop our favorite plaid wares from Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ, and more, below.
1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Aimee trompe l’oeil plaid merino-wool sweater, $280, available at net-a-porter.com.
2. McQ Alexander McQueen tartan-print leggings, $345, available at shopbop.com.
3. Karen Walker Number One sunglasses, $250, available at shopbop.com.
4. Jimmy Choo Wheel studded suede slippers, $750, available at net-a-porter.com.
5. 3.1 Phillip Lim 31 Hour bag, $750, available at shopbop.com.
“The eighties were about being yourself,” said Kate Bethune when asked about the looks in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s latest show, Club to Catwalk. Open from today, the exhibition explores the explosion of ostentatious creativity that rose out of London’s eighties club scene, and how these underground fashions manifested themselves on the catwalk. Throughout the decade, designers and characters such as John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Boy George, and the king of the club era—performance artist Leigh Bowery (left, center) would create DIY ensembles, dress to the nines, and take on larger-than-life personas in iconic haunts such as Blitz, Kinky Gerlinky, and Taboo. One such character was milliner Stephen Jones, who has two hats featured in the show. “People didn’t really use the word style before 1982,” Jones told Style.com. “But suddenly, your style made it seem as if you were actively concerned about your appearance. It was more personal than fashion,” explained Jones, who described his own nightlife look as “a big dollop of Fellini, hats, French Left Bank, and a little bit of fifties thrown in for good measure.” Naturally, if you weren’t dressed your best, clubs would turn you away at the door. “The Blitz was the most difficult one to get into,” offered Jones. “The guy on the door was Trojan, and he had a little mirror in his pocket, and he’d famously hold it up and say, ‘Would you let you in?’” Jones didn’t have that problem, but sadly none of his own top-to-toe costumes survived. “Our outfits were only made to last one night. They’d sort of dissolve,” he said, adding, “If you wore something from a department store, or designer fashion, it would have been the kiss of death. Terminally uncool.” Continue Reading “The V&A’s Gone Clubbing” »
Milanese runways are feeling the heat, as troves of Italy’s presenters this menswear season have rendered sunset-inspired motifs on their wares, from ombré fadeaways to photo-realistic Atlantic twilights.
Calvin Klein‘s Italo Zucchelli showed a brilliant jumper aflame in solar fuchsia—a depiction of the view from his Fire Island summer home (above, right). Zucchelli also looked to James Turrell’s light sculptures—a timely nod, considering the artist’s much-hyped summer installation at New York’s Guggenheim Museum. Moschino, too, lensed a vivid, filmic gloaming on a range of bathing suits.
Dame Vivienne Westwood sent her boys to a sort of pan-global beach town, lending a sun-kissed casualness to her agitprop beat. One periwinkle-turned-rose-petal top caught our eye in particular. But it was Fendi‘s blur on a simple silken T-shirt that won the ombré challenge, hazily recalling a scorching desert (above, left).
And then there’s Prada (above, center). Miuccia gamely explored the underbelly of paradises then and now—spurring thoughts of wartime Vietnam (helicopters on the soundtrack) and seedy Honolulu racketeers. A series of bombers—heat-pressed with dusk-time littoral snapshots—perfectly encapsulated Prada’s ominous tropical sundown.
By now, you’ve no doubt already heard about—or even seen—the facsimile of CBGB’s bathroom that Andrew Bolton included in the opening gallery of the Met’s Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition, which opens to the public on Thursday, following tonight’s red-carpet festivities. “CBGB was the heart of punk in New York,” said Bolton at a preview this morning. “Punk was all about shock and provocation, and so to start off an exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a toilet—well, I thought was the ultimate punk statement,” the curator told Style.com.
The exhibition juxtaposes original (and contemporary) punk wares by Vivienne Westwood against luxury and haute couture looks from the likes of Dolce & Gabbana (who are featured in the Graffiti room, above), Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garçons, Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano, and Gianni Versace (yes, the 1994 safety-pin dress is on display). One might be hard-pressed to differentiate between Vivienne Westwood’s destroyed seventies sweaters and Rodarte’s Fall 2008 knit dress, which are on display side by side. The same gallery boasts Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s lewd T-shirts (for instance, her famed “Tits” top hangs against a black PVC curtain). “I love that we start off with T-shirts with very obscene political and sexual slogans,” said Bolton. “They’re still shocking thirty-seven years later—in a way, more shocking, because of our political correctness.” Beyond the T-shirts lies a reproduction of McLaren and Westwood’s infamous—and iconic—shop, Seditionaries, which stood at 430 King’s Road. The remainder of the show was divided into DIY categories, like Hardware, Graffiti and Agitprop, Bricolage, and Destroy—and each room was punctuated by a film by Nick Knight.
“No other subcultural movement has a greater or more enduring influence on how we dress today,” Bolton noted in his opening remarks. Consider, as evidence, the fact that there is a slew of Fall 2013 looks in the show, from such houses as Viktor & Rolf, Saint Laurent, and Gareth Pugh—whose Fall 2013 trash-bag dresses are arranged into a veritable mob in the center of the Bricolage installation.
Bolton made sure to steer away from clichés—for instance, he noted that hairstylist Guido Paulo, who created the spiky Technicolor mops that topped each mannequin’s head, avoided Mohawks, and instead pulled inspiration from Richard Hell’s signature ’do.
“I wanted to present punk in a respectful, and even reverential, manner,” said Bolton. That’s already earning the show some mixed reviews. And of course, there are those who protest discussing punk in a high-fashion context—or, for that matter, paying couture prices for a punk-tinged look. “I think that’s completely punk,” said Bolton in response. “People seem to forget that punk really was a commercial movement. Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood, in a way, created what we know as the punk look. And they commodified it,” he explained.
As for why consumers and designers, from Karl Lagerfeld to Met Ball host Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, are still drawn to the seventies subculture, Bolton offers, “Punk endures today because it reflects our longing for a time when originality and creativity were celebrated, a time when fashion was provocative and confrontational. And, above all, a time when fashion championed the individual and self-expression.”
Punk: Chaos to Couture opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art this Thursday, May 9.
Earlier this month, Karl Lagerfeld revealed his capsule range for accessible Brazilian “jelly” shoe brand, Melissa, via a campaign starring Cara Delevingne. The Lagerfeld-lensed images, which depict Ms. Delevingne as a leather-clad bondage dominatrix, stirred up the requisite buzz. And last night, at the label’s Soho boutique, the wares made their much-anticipated New York debut. Featuring a range of pointy plastic flats and sparkly ice-cream-cone-heeled pumps, all of which are fruit scented, the collection boasted a subversive, but almost silly sex appeal. Naturally, this was only enhanced by Lagerfeld’s snaps, which were displayed at yesterday’s fête. “The shoes are amazing, and they smell so good,” offered Delevingne. “In one of the photos, I’m drinking Champagne out of them, so I got to know them pretty well.”
Since launching over thirty years ago, Melissa has worked with some pretty impressive collaborators—Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Jason Wu among them. On hand to discuss the latest joint effort was Melissa’s US CEO, Michele Levy, who noted that Lagerfeld “wanted to capture who we are.” (However, the photo shoot, she affirmed, was “Karl’s touch.”) “We are a Brazilian brand, although we’re in 71 countries, and he wanted to embrace that spirit.” One pair of pumps shown in the colors of the country’s flag was particularly patriotic. Continue Reading “Plastic Fantastic: Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld” »