53 posts tagged "Vivienne Westwood"
Even with the promise of champagne, 8 a.m. is an early call time for the last day of fashion week. But that didn’t stop editors from flocking to Day Birger et Mikkelsen‘s Copenhagen flagship for an early-morning presentation. While show-goers enjoyed a tasty brunch, models wove through the room in tweed coats, wrap dresses, pencil skirts, fluffy sweaters and tiger-print pants. Casual suits and beaded jackets were also Fall features and showed off the brand’s signature fusion of intricate craftsmanship and simplicity.
After more than thirty years on the fashion scene, Ivan Grundahl is not exactly a new kid on the block. Even so, his Fall ’13 felt youthful, and even a little rock ’n’ roll. Asymmetrical lines, architectural shapes, and uneven silhouettes are Grundahl’s signatures—all of which were present during Friday’s show. The collection (above) offered lots of heavy boots, loose trousers, and sweaters in dark prints, black, and army green. Large pockets and lace were used as accents, and balloon-shaped dresses and sequined skirts provided hints of femininity.
Stine Riis, the winner of last year’s H&M Design Award, closed out Copenhagen fashion week with her collection, RIIS. For Fall ’13, she continued her love affair with clean dressing and discreet details, showing tailored trousers and narrow pencil skirts mixed with silk shirts and wool outerwear. A gray jacket was one of the best pieces in the show, and cutout patent leather details on skirts and tops were a nice contrast to the modern minimalism.
Artist, photographer, and all-around troublemaker Juergen Teller’s latest exhibition, Woo, opens at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts tomorrow. And, as always with Teller’s work, it promises to be a visual and conceptual feast. Covering the photographer’s extensive career, which spans over twenty years, the show will include some of his most iconic fashion and pop-culture works, like images of Vivienne Westwood (above), Kurt Cobain, Lily Cole, and Kate Moss (below), as well as shots from his innovative and sometimes shocking Marc Jacobs campaigns (remember when he shot Victoria Beckham’s suggestively parted legs popping out of an MJ shopping bag?).
Teller’s photographs aren’t all fashion focused, though—his art photography, which most recently includes landscapes and intimate family portraits, will be featured, as will shots and witty writings from his controversial column in Die Zeit magazine (think photos of Teller passed out next to a roasted pig’s head). The letters of complaint that Teller’s Die Zeit contributions elicited from readers will be proudly displayed next to the photographer’s work.
Woo runs from January 23 through March 17 at London’s ICA, The Mall, London SW1Y 5AH, +44 20 7930 3647.
Tamy Glauser is a leader in the new wave of gender-bending models. The 28-year-old Swiss tomboy had a breakout moment today on the Givenchy menswear runway in Paris, where her shaved head, fierce gaze, sharp cheekbones, and lanky frame fit right in with the rest of the guys in the cast (plus several other Riccardo Tisci favorites, including Saskia de Brauw, Jenny Shimizu, and Ashleigh Good). Glauser (left, note the “Garcons” sweater) debuted at the Spring shows, walking in Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, where they spray-painted her hair red to channel Annie Lennox. “When I went to the [Jean Paul Gaultier] casting, it was two o’clock in the morning. I didn’t have heels, and I didn’t know what the designer looked like, because I didn’t really have anything to do with fashion before. After walking for him, he said he liked my look and told me I got the job,” she told Style.com. Since then, it’s been a whirlwind of change for Glauser, who recently relocated from Zurich to Paris, and just shot a menswear editorial (out this February) alongside fellow androgynous star of the moment, Casey Legler, who is the first female model on Ford’s men’s board.
Before beginning her modeling career, Glauser was paying her bills by working in bars and restaurants, with the occasional acting gig on the side. Earlier this year, she starred in an award-winning music video for popular European dubstep musician Joachim Garraud. Back in 2000, Glauser was an Olympics-bound swimmer on the Swiss National Team (her events were the 400- and 800-meter freestyle), but she decided not to pursue becoming a professional athlete, adding, “Swimmers have the weirdest bodies anyways, and I already don’t like my broad shoulders.” Glauser takes each new chapter of her life in stride, and is fully embracing modeling for the moment. “I like being in front of the camera. It gives me the chance to put my shyness away and be someone else,” she explained. “I don’t have an exact future in mind. In this industry, one day it’s one way and the next day it’s another. I feel like if you expect anything, you might get disappointed, so I try not to have any expectations and just appreciate the present.” Chances are, we’ll be seeing more of Glauser at the Fall shows in February.
Although the actual pageant doesn’t air until tonight, the Miss Universe contestants debuted their “National Costumes” in Las Vegas last Friday—a questionable sartorial event that today, prompted journalist Hilary Alexander to tweet, “Why didn’t Vivienne Westwood or McQueen or Chris Kane or Mary K or Anyone design the Miss UK National Costume in Miss Universe…” After scrolling through the images, we have similar questions about all the countries’ costumes. Miss Switzerland appeared to be a “sexy” hotel porter, Denmark was either a mermaid or a dolphin, and Miss Bahamas opted for a pirate costume. We have to agree that Dame Viv would have created an infinitely better Union Jack unitard than the one Miss Great Britain, who it must be noted, like all the contestants, is stunning on her own, chose to wear. We also think Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, or Rodarte could have improved on Miss USA’s see-through Lady Liberty look. Any takers for next year?
Tired of trolling eBay for the perfect vintage find? Perhaps it’s time to switch gears to Byronesque, an online vintage marketplace that combines carefully selected retro-wares (nothing under 20 years old), provocative interviews (Boy George is currently on the site with Vivienne Westwood and Julie Gilhart coming soon), and high-styled editorials. Launched in October by Gill Linton and backed by heavyweights like Theory CEO Andrew Rosen and Marvin Traub Associates, the site features covetable pieces like a YSL Rive Gauche skirt from the late seventies, and eighties looks from Thierry Mugler (left), Alaïa, and Chanel. Sourcing items from acclaimed vintage shops like New York’s New World Order and London’s One of a Kind, Byronesque also offers a personal shopping feature to help hunt down those hard-to-find pieces, as well as a subscription-only archive called The Back Room for designers in search of a little inspiration. Naturally, this kind of vintage bliss doesn’t run cheap (pieces run between $295 and just over $5,000—it might be back to eBay for those bargains after all). But if you’re going to splurge, it may as well be on a little piece of history.