3 posts tagged "Vladimir Karaleev"
After seven years, Berlin Fashion Week is solidly in its sophomore phase. The surge of energy that initially propelled it has waned, with major regional fashion houses such as Joop!, Hugo Boss and Rena Lange bowing out, while internationally renowned German designers like Jil Sander and Kostas Murkudis never participated. Yet optimism unites the fifty-one designers currently presenting collections on the Mercedes Benz catwalk. Bright, clear, confident yellow – the color of sunshine and high hopes – has beamed onto most catwalks during BFW’s past three days.
Vladimir Karaleev, an insiders’ favorite for his roughly finished and sculptural creations, showed a coat made from an unhemmed sunny jacquard silk which could have upholstered a chair in Louis XIV’s living quarters. Models sported fist-sized Marigold corsages over denim and cocktail attire at Marc Cain. Laurèl launched its show with a jumpsuit, shift, skirt and trousers in the same yellow and white lacework print. Young designer Rebekka Ruétz, a beacon for the Berlin fashion scene, presented variations of a tangy tie-dye print in belted blazers, leggings, jumpsuits and skirts under white chiffon veils. And Rike Feurstein suited a model in genteel high-waisted lemony trousers with a matching net breastplate and shoulder-pads the size of hats. Surreal or pragmatic, yellow was the tone of optimism for Berlin’s stalwart designers.
As a writer, it was nice to see that the leading Fall ’14 trends during Berlin fashion week were homages to old-fashioned printed words and images. Almost every main show included black-and-white outfits with patterned sections containing actual lettering or imagery that could have been lifted from a newspaper page. Lala Berlin combined panels of pretty white silk and black lace, and pinned signs expounding the virtues of being wild but nice on the backs of its casually structured blazers and flowing coats. Marc Cain adorned a pencil skirt with a vintage New York Times photo of the Williamsburg Bridge. Hien Le, meanwhile, sent out black-and-white egg-shaped wool dresses, knee-length skirts, and boxy blazers for her, and matching sweaters that resembled an illustrator’s charcoal shading paper for him. [ep_anouí] by Eva Poleschinski presented white leather tulip skirts paired with chiffon blouses covered in cursive black scrawl (including a coded charcoal love note to Cy Twombly). Vladimir Karaleev’s graceful, oragami-esque folds of cream-colored felt and silk could have been a frustrated writer’s crumpled blank page. As for the reportage that writers would broadcast about fabric, the big buzz was the appearance of Elizabeth Hurley wearing—hold the presses—black leather leggings and a white top with Morse code-like dots.
For a behind-the-scenes look at Berlin Fashion Week’s street style, parties, and beyond, click through our slideshow.
In between the men’s shows and Couture (kicking off today), you could be forgiven for bypassing Bebelplatz. But Berlin fashion week, which ended yesterday, sent out several polished collections last week, and celebs like Tilda Swinton and Chloë Sevigny found time to touch down in the front rows.
For trend trackers, the seventies mood that prevailed for Spring may not be going anywhere soon: Rena Lange, Laurèl (above, right), Allude, and Schumacher worked a Me Decade vibe—think a long-locked and fresh-faced Meryl Streep as muse. For something a little more structured, Hugo by Hugo Boss turned out sleek, crisp daywear and cocktail looks in a palette of black, red, and white. (The elegant show at the Neue Nationalgalerie attracted the aforementioned celebs.) For Berlin’s rowdy nightlife scene, Kaviar Gauche’s PVC tees, paired with cream-colored silk trousers, could be a good bet; and Vladimir Karaleev’s sculptural wool pieces (above, left), inspired by repeated listenings to Nirvana’s Unplugged, have a grunge sensibility that feels as fresh now as it did the first time around.
Leyla Piedayesh’s sophisticated and sexy Lala Berlin collection (above) continues to be a Berlin highlight. Inspired by children’s arts and crafts, dresses, trousers, and full, boxy suits came printed in emerald, blue, and acid lemon, a pattern like marbled paper. The shimmery details on a tiny, slinky dress looked like glitter or sprinkles, but this was a grown-up collection.