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21 posts tagged "VPL"

Yoox Jumps on the Activewear Bandwagon


swim final

Uh-oh, Net-a-Sporter, looks like you’ve got some competition! WWD reports that Italian e-tailer has entered the ever-expanding luxury activewear market. The virtual shopping destination will offer wares from established and niche brands geared toward technical performance. Between this , Net-a-Sporter, VPL’s latest lineup, and Lisa Marie Fernandez’s sporty new range, I might be inclined to hit the gym a little more frequently.

Photo: Getty Images

VPL Relaunches to Join the Activewear Revolution


The line between activewear and ready-to-wear continues to blur—but this isn’t news to Victoria Bartlett. The designer has championed “active fashion” for years at VPL, and for Resort ’15, she’s taking it one step further. “We’ve converted the line to a fashion active [label], so I wanted to illustrate this active moment and what it’s designed for,” she said. Bartlett teamed up with The Ballerina Project to film dancers performing in her new clothes to display the fluid, performance-based qualities. Four of the seven videos that comprise the “lookbook” debut exclusively here.

“I wanted to take out the traditional context of lookbooks and make the looks customized for each mini performance,” Bartlett explained. “It was about seeing the clothes in motion, which is an important aspect of the entire collection.” The collection’s strengths come from Bartlett’s years of experience designing active clothing. “We always work with anti-wicking, antioxidant materials, and meshing for breathability. Some pieces are fitted with holding entities, and then there are looser pieces, which move differently in the films,” she explained.

In soft shades of lemon yellow, gray, steel blue, oyster, and black—slightly “off” colors, as Bartlett says—the clothes are devoid of logos, ticking stripes, and other activewear hallmarks. All the better to look and feel more like real clothes. “It’s this concept of a double shelf life, where you can wear these to exercise, then wear them out. Women want to look good and feel good now, and there’s kind of a revolution happening.” Bartlett envisions women sporting her clothes for nontraditional activities far from the standard gym setting. Her personal favorites: “I do Physique 57, yoga, Barry’s studio, some trampolining…” So now you’ve got an excuse to ditch the elliptical and go shopping.

For more information, visit

Film by Dane Shitagi at Ballerina Project; Music from the album Last Summer by Eleanor Friedberger, used with permission by Merge Records; Ballerina : Cassie Trenary – American Ballet Theater; Ballerina : Hanna Bass – ABT Studio Company

The Split-Second Preview: VPL


The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.


WHO: VPL, designed by Victoria Bartlett

WHERE: The World Wide Web

WHEN: Saturday, February 8

WHAT: “PROACTION is VPL’s movement toward performance and high-tech design. Continuing a dialogue true to VPL, examining what is commonly hidden.” —Victoria Bartlett. The designer sent us a detail shot of a Fall ’14 fabric, above.

Photo: Courtesy of VPL

A Lot Can Happen on La Divanee


Jessica Mitrani and Rossy de Palma

Last night, director Jessica Mitrani invited such pals as Threeasfour’s Gabriel Asfour, Adi Gil, and Angela Donhauser, Glenn O’Brien, and Victoria Bartlett to an intimate gathering at her exotic (think zebra-skin rugs and a grand white peacock) Tribeca apartment. The occasion was the completion of her new short film—La Divanee, starring Fatimah Azzahra—

De Palma's voice-over helps tell the story of Mitrani's heroine, who chooses to spend her entire life actively reclining on a chaise longue. “It came from a few ideas—the first being when I wake up in the morning and can just contemplate in my bed. I think those moments are quite special. And the other idea was about a reclining nude,” Mitrani explained, noting that she felt classical female nude artworks focused on women of leisure and were geared toward the male gaze. “I thought, What if I make a recline that’s very productive?” Indeed, the leading lady is just that—during the movie she gives birth, writes seven novels, and hosts a salon every Wednesday. In keeping with Mitrani’s artistic inspiration, the film’s star is nude, save what appears to be a giant strip of snakeskin draped over her body. But the director—who won last year’s ASVOFF festival with her religious hat-centric short, Headpieces for Peace—asserted that clothes, and what they represent, are essential to her films. “Fashion is narrative; it’s part of the dialogue. All my films have a fashion element because fashion is a mode of communication.”

Speaking of clothes, de Palma, who was decked out in Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, and Armani, offered, “This is a very special film. Jessica has an amazing energy and sense of humor.” When asked where she’d choose to perma-lounge, de Palma responded that she wouldn’t mind spending the rest of her days in New York perched “somewhere on the High Line.”

Bartlett, whose one-eyed cat, i-D (named for the mag), has a supporting role in the film, quipped that she’s not the “reclining” type. “I’m too active. I’m not a couch potato…” That may have something to do with her latest project—a reimagining of the VPL aesthetic via high-fashion gym clothes. “We’re converting everything into activewear. It’s going to be gymwear, but it’s going to have a life that can cross from day gym to night.” The sporty endeavor is set to launch this July.

Photo: Carly Otness/ 

Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”


Out of the mystic comes “The Stars (Are Out Tonight),” a new Bowie video. This one is a lot less oblique than the video that artist Tony Oursler made for “Where Are We Now?,” the first single from Bowie’s startling comeback album, and that’s mostly because director Floria Sigismondi’s natural genius with a twisted narrative (case in point: Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People” promo) gels so well with what one imagines is Bowie’s own predilection for the cinematically perverse. “The Stars” sumptuously elevates the man and the myth to new heights.

This particular offering toys with the androgyny, the bravado, the decadence, the desire that turns an ordinary human being into a raving fan. It also has a strong contemporary-fashion quotient, appropriate given that Bowie was, in a way that the upcoming exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum will surely clarify, always inclined to the fashion experiment—from the early days of his Kansai jumpsuits to McQueen frock coats and Hedi Slimane suits.

Stylist Jerry Stafford was responsible for dressing the cast of five for the two-day shoot in L.A.: models Saskia de Brauw, Andrej Pejic, and Iselin Steiro, plus Bowie himself and his co-star Tilda Swinton, with whom Stafford has worked for fifteen years. Stafford is, like me, a child of Bowie, but he says there was no time on the set for fandom. “Everyone understood they were part of something special.” There was one moment when Stafford presented Bowie with a long coat, explaining to him it was by a designer named Rick Owens. “More Rick Wakeman than Rick Owens,” was the response, Wakeman being the wizard-coat-wearing keyboard king of Brit prog rock. “He played piano on ‘Life on Mars?,’ ” chimed in Stafford, the sole moment when he let himself indulge his know-every-last-detail trainspotter obsession. “And, indeed, on the whole of Hunky Dory,” Bowie said with a knowing smile. Continue Reading “Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”” »