6 posts tagged "W"
Stefano Tonchi did plenty to shake up W when he departed from T to take the reins at the Condé Nast fashion title, but his most recent appointment is likely to have the largest impact yet. The magazine announced last week that its longtime creative fashion director, Alex White—a 16-year veteran at the glossy—is stepping down to pursue other projects; in her place, Tonchi has appointed Edward Enninful, formerly fashion director at i-D (where he made history as the youngest person ever appointed to the fashion director spot, at 18) and contributing fashion editor to U.S. Vogue and Vogue Italia, as fashion and style director. Style.com caught up with Enninful (on a shoot, of course) to talk young guns and big plans.
Congratulations on the new post. What can we expect from your W?
I want editorial to be filled with ideas. It’s very important to capture the mood of the collections and bring narrative onto the pages. It’s also very important to be forward-thinking but remain wearable. We should project what’s going to come, take from the past and bring something new, and document what’s around now.
And what, do you think, is the mood of the current mood?
The past couple of months there’s been a bit of mobility at these big houses. Now it’s perfect moment to put young designers—whether they’re from America or Europe—it’s very important to put them forward. It’s a new day. Not to do a young designer story separately, but keep them in the mix.
Any young designers in particular that stand out?
I love Alexander Wang, I love Joseph Altuzarra, I love Christopher Kane, and Mary Katrantzou. But for me, fashion is one universe. I don’t break it into young designers, [per se]…they all have amazing voices and I want to embrace that. Alongside the designers we all know and love, I want to create something new and exciting—to bring a new energy.
And how do you see W in particular as an outlet for that—say, versus the other fashion magazines?
W is an American institution. It’s one of the rare places where you can express yourself through photography, through the arts, through music, through film…For me, I always thought W was a perfect balance of fashion, society, celerity, and subcultures. In America, it’s the one place where all these things combine perfectly. You read W and it’s very intelligent but it’s also visual.
W Leads The Fashion Pack At The ASMEs, Carine And Karl Together Again, A Devilish Kind Of Angel, And More…
The American Society of Magazine Editors announced the nominees for its annual ASME awards today. Stefano Tonchi’s W leads the fashion-mag pack with three nominations, two for photography and one in the Fashion, Service, and Lifestyle “women’s interest” category. The New Yorker had the most nominations overall, with nine, followed by New York, The New York Times Magazine, and the Virginia Quarterly Review. [WWD]
Carine Roitfeld’s new gig? Styling the latest Chanel campaign. Karl Lagerfeld tapped the former Paris Vogue editrix to shoot the spots with house favorite Freja Beha Erichsen (in Chanel, left), and the results, he says, are “genius.” [WWD]
Engineer Ted Southern now spends his days making space gloves for NASA, but his previous job was a little sexier: working on the wings for Victoria’s Secret’s Angels. The big reveal? While Heidi is a true angel, Gisele was a little tougher to work with. “She’s always screaming, ‘What the f–k is this?’ ” Southern told the Post. [NY Post via Racked]
And, maybe it’s just our late-nineties adolescence talking, but a priceless bit of movie memorabilia hit the auction block over the weekend: the nude sketch of Kate Winslet, done by director James Cameron, that appeared in Titanic. Her heart (and the rest of her) really did go on. [Moviefone via Gawker]
Dennis Freedman: “The Longer I’ve Worked In Fashion, The More I’ve Realized It’s Really Not Just About Clothes”
One year ago, it was announced that Dennis Freedman, the longtime creative director of W, would be leaving the magazine. Freedman didn’t waste any time before embarking on a new chapter of his storied career: In short order, he accepted the role of creative director at a rebooted Barneys New York and revealed that he would be partnering with Damiani on a new book imprint, Freedman Damiani. This month, Freedman Damiani publishes its first title, Philip-Lorca diCorcia: ELEVEN, a retrospective of the photographer’s editorials for W. “I was talking to Philip-Lorca,” Freedman recalls, “and he brought up the idea of doing a book about the work we did together at W, and it happened that I had just made this deal with Damiani. The whole thing was serendipitous.” Freedman goes on to note that his life has been shaped by that kind of luck. “Most of the best things that happened in my career, I never planned or expected,” he says. “But what I’ve learned is that, as long as you’re curious and as long as you’re committed to working with people you care about, the path will create itself.” Here, Freedman talks to Style.com about art versus commerce, the value of commitment, and what fashion, at the end of the day, is really all about.
Was launching a book imprint something you knew you wanted to do when you left W?
It wasn’t, no. Damiani approached me, and of course, it struck me as an amazing opportunity. I’ve been really lucky in my career to have been able to work with a lot of people I admire, whose work I believe in, and the imprint is a way of continuing to do that. The idea is, basically, we publish two books a year, and they reflect my tastes and interests. And it’s incredibly gratifying—and fitting—that the very first title is with Philip-Lorca, with whom I had one of the most meaningful collaborations of my career.
How did that collaboration come about?
I was very familiar with his work, after he did this one-man show at MoMA, I was looking at the book from the show, and it struck me that the nature of his work could be applied to fashion, and interesting in the context of a quote-unquote “fashion” shoot. I mean, as a fashion magazine, we could use our tools—fashion, hair, makeup—to define the characters in his pictures. I didn’t want it to be a straight-ahead fashion editorial, and I didn’t want it to be a Philip-Lorca diCorcia work, either; the minute you, as an artist, are incorporating someone else’s objectives into your work, it’s not your art, it’s something else. I wanted to see what that something else could be.
Do you look at these photographs now, and see more fashion, or more art?
I see both. There are credits in those stories, and clothes that were for sale, but that doesn’t mean the photographs don’t have their own validity or integrity. They’re no less interesting because Philip-Lorca had to incorporate other people’s commercial needs, and they have the characteristics of great art, in that you can return to them, they don’t reveal themselves immediately, they require attention. That’s very different than most commercial photography. Continue Reading “Dennis Freedman: “The Longer I’ve Worked In Fashion, The More I’ve Realized It’s Really Not Just About Clothes”” »
Today in fashion field trips, part 1: Todd Selby visits Jeanne Lanvin’s personal library in Paris, comes away with shots like the one above. [The Selby]
Today in fashion field trips, part 2: Patrik Ervell heads to Detroit to take in a new Matthew Barney performance piece. Sadly, no snaps are allowed in the performance, but Patrik did share a few of his best shots of Motor City with the crew at Opening Ceremony. [OC New News]
New Gap logo, we hardly knew ye. The much-debated redesign is officially out, replaced by the retailer’s classic navy box. The short-lived new one can now go join the pantheon of New Coke and other revamp missteps. [Fashionista]
And Kim Kardashian made the cover of the new issue of W. Her clothes, for better or worse, did not. [PopSugar]
The designer merry-go-round keeps on spinning. Much-missed Olivier Theyskens will design a capsule collection for Theory, and Christophe Lemaire, formerly of Lacoste, will take over for the departing Jean Paul Gaultier (pictured) at Hermès. [WWD; NYT]
Changes are brewing in the world of menswear, too. Daiki Suzuki, the Japanese-born designer of Engineered Garments, will step down as creative director of the Americana label Woolrich Woolen Mills; the blogger-adored Mark McNairy will take over there. [WWD]
Louise, we hardly knew ye. Louise J. Esterhazy, the alter ego of John Fairchild, will retire her society column in W under Stefano Tonchi’s new editorship. “Louise,” over the years, brought us such salty musings as “You could reply that’s frivolous in this troubled world, but do you really think dressing like an existential nun with suicidal thoughts is going to solve Bosnia?” [Page Six]
Helmut Lang alum and knitwear designer Tobias Wong of Wong Wong is teaming up with Happy Socks for a series of World Cup styles. Just another reason to get in the mood for the World Cup. [Racked]
And you’ve already seen Louis Vuitton’s London opening bacchanal through the eyes of Derek Blasberg; now see it through the eyes—er, eye—of monocular cartoon correspondent Darcel, of the great blog Darcel Disappoints. Keep your eye peeled for a cartoonified Peter Marino, too. [Nowness]