2 posts tagged "Wil Beedle"
Label: AllSaints, designed by Wil Beedle
Need to know: British retailer AllSaints sent out a global message inspired by the torn billboard posters and all-around industrialism of its native East London at a presentation this week, which marked its second showing in New York. The brand is best known for its rocker-turned-city slicker aesthetic, and the Fall ’14 range was a hard-bent attempt on creative director Wil Beedle’s part to bridge the geographic reach that now encompasses its international fan base. A textural interplay of bonded cashmere and leather coats and asymmetrical blazers was on hand, while supple leather skirts and drop-waist trousers provided the structural base. There were more literal interpretations of the theme: thick fuzzy sweaters stripped at the shoulders and an asymmetrical dress with a grid-like pattern all in gray, white, and black, with occasional touches of saffron. The melton biker pants and velvet scuba shoes were highlights to the menswear repertoire, which also had leather bonded onto T-shirts and sweats for sportive flair. The brand also launched its first-ever handbags, which came in printed croc and napa leather. After all, this collection was meant to move.
He says: “These days, people wear the same things to the airport as they do in a nightclub,” explained Beedle. “We need a global versatility. And it’s important that this works as well in New York as it does in London, Berlin, Tokyo, Seoul, and beyond.”
Where to find it: AllSaints stores, Bloomingdale’s, and online at www.us.allsaints.com.
Since launching in 1994, London-based label AllSaints has built a sturdy reputation around its luxe-but-tough-edged leather jackets. However, under the creative direction of Wil Beedle—who has been with the brand just over a year—it offers some pretty spiffy ready-to-wear, too. This season, AllSaints took its show on the road and for the first time revealed its new collection via an installation during New York fashion week. “The collection felt ready,” said Beedle when asked why he chose Spring ’14 for his NYFW debut. “We felt like it was time to show it in line with the fashion calendar, and share [our clothes] with a global community,” he added. Indeed, Beedle had lots to present to the international press and buyers who came to visit AllSaints’ largely black-clad mannequins, which were lined up inside a sprawling abandoned garment factory on Mercer Street.
As part of the brand’s ongoing digital push, the multifaceted, two-day event included everything from a film shoot (a promo for the label’s new focus on footwear) to a live illustrator—whose floral drawings will later be printed on limited-edition T-shirts—to photo shoots, which took place on the warehouse roof. Much of this was live-streamed to the AllSaints Web site. And while the spectacle made for interesting online viewing, it was a little complex for those of use who were there—in real life—to see the clothes.
Speaking of the clothes, they were great. A paper-thin knee-length bonded-leather vest—worn with an easy gray tank and a black-and-white floral-print skirt—was a clear standout, while a pair of chiffon basketball shorts, shown with a crisp white blouse and the house’s signature black bomber, seemed an upmarket take on the streetwear styles we’ve been seeing of late. Playing with the concept of transparency, Beedle layered a hand-beaded silver vest over a white oxford, turned out a shirtdress in sheer black lace, and covered a saucy nude frock with a translucent chiffon en noir. The silhouettes combined soft draping (like relaxed silk trousers that tapered at the ankle) with razor-sharp lines (coats were clean and oversize) for an effect that felt hypermodern—and wearable.
AllSaints is available at AllSaints stores, as well as such department stores as Bloomingdale’s, and online at www.us.allsaints.com.