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July 28 2014

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6 posts tagged "Wilfredo Rosado"

Everything You Need to Know About Fall ’14′s Hautest Jewelry

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In the run-up to September’s Biennale des Antiquaires—arguably the most important event on the jewelry calendar—there is much muchness being showcased in and around the Place Vendôme. But while big may be beautiful and jaw-dropping, some of the season’s most compelling pieces, such as “floating” stones and unexpected 3-D effects, prove that less can still be more. Below, we tell you everything you need to know about the hautest of this season’s fine jewelry.

A Fine JewelA Fine Jewel: A champion of couture with parsimony, Emmanuel Aubry decided to “turn water to ice” by mounting a 47-carat rectangular cabochon atop a mirror in a white-gold cage setting called the Riva, in homage to the boat. By the time you read this, the one-of-a-kind Riva will have likely vaporized. (It happens to be the least bank-breaking bauble of the week.) Fortunately, Aubry has other aquas to freeze and plenty of other stones where “things are happening.”

BoucheronBoucheron: Japan, Russia, India, China, and Persia offered up a whirlwind world tour of inspirations, among them a Bolshoi-informed diamond necklace that can become a tiara: the Trésor de Perse necklace in diamonds, rock crystal, and two cabochon sapphires including one that once belonged to the shah of Iran and a 190-carat engraved emerald that belonged to a 17th-century maharajah. “It’s all about the majesty of the stones,” commented creative director Claire Choisne. “There’s no need for complexity. I try to stay as invisible as possible and keep it simple.”

BuccellatiBuccellati: Every two years, Buccellati focuses on a single object. This year, it’s Bracelets de Rêves. Forty unique variations on house signatures by Andrea Buccellati feature baroque flourishes set into a silky, textured background known as rigato, a proprietary technique, or gold honeycomb lace. The dazzling diamond-, sapphire-, and tsavorite-encrusted cuff was two years in the making. The house is also quietly turning out unexpected pieces, such as gold and diamond iPad and phone covers.

BulgariBulgari: Stones talk. Lucia Silvestri has spent her life listening to them for Bulgari, but even she can’t quite explain how she does it. That’s why she decided to whittle 4 carats off her favorite stone in the collection: a Burmese sapphire. The 58-carat cabochon anchors one of the nine creations in the Musa collection. Overall, candy-colored stones with irregular shapes and bezel settings take pride of place. (Silvestri affectionately calls one necklace “The Flintstone.”) High-jewelry serpentis mark the house’s 130th anniversary.

ChanelChanel: In a departure, Chanel tapped into the explosive creative freedom of café society and shook loose of strictly figurative codes. What camellias and stars remained got the abstract treatment, as graphic relief on the supple, 3-D Sunset necklace heavy with padparadscha sapphires and diamonds. Elsewhere, the house ventured into gold with red enamel on an openwork bracelet set with diamonds and yellow sapphires. Another showstopper: the Broadway bracelet set with 35 carats’ worth of baguette, brilliant, and square-cut diamonds.

Cindy ChaoCindy Chao: Cindy Chao dances on the line between jewelry and art objects. This year’s centerpiece was the much-talked about 10th anniversary Ballerina Butterfly, a collaboration with Sarah Jessica Parker that will be auctioned to benefit the New York City Ballet in October. Elsewhere, the designer continued her tribute to nature and the four seasons, which most recently included sculptural orchid earrings wrought in 3-D with large sapphires and diamonds on all sides of the piece.

DauphinDauphin: Charlotte de La Rochefoucauld is exploring a “blue period” with her nascent jewelry line. Her latest pieces include a boule ring based on her minimalist cuff, which are both done in black diamonds on palladium gold with a midnight blue cast that changes depending on the light. The cuff is also offered in black, gray, and white ombré diamonds and, come September, in rose gold, a special edition for Le Bon Marché. The designer has also spun out her Eiffel-esque design into a significant diamond-set signet ring.

DiorDior: Of the twenty-one one-of-a-kind pieces in Victoire de Castellane’s ArchiDior high-jewelry collection, all but four had been snapped up by the middle of Couture week. Among the pieces inspired by Christian Dior’s creations from 1947 to early 1950 were the surprising Corolle Soir in pigeon’s blood rubies and diamonds, and the Envol ring, which echoes the dress by reprising a button detail with a significant emerald. There was also a hint of what’s to come in the other twenty-three pieces now being readied for the Biennale, with Plissée Verticale, a ribbon of diamonds ending in pear-cut emeralds.

Louis VuittonLouis Vuitton: Acte V signals the house’s fifth high-jewelry collection, and that key numeral-slash-letter is the springboard for pieces based on Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s tricolor monogram, sketchbooks, and 1925 Milano vanity set. A necklace with a nearly 88-carat Australian black opal was the headline act. But the talking points for many editors were smaller entries, such as the Deco-informed Apotheosis cuff and the hexagonal ring boasting diamonds, chrysoprase, and a hint of the seventies.

Repossi Repossi: We’re hearing a lot about “floating” stones this season, but no one did it quite like Gaia Repossi. “Just the stone is enough,” the designer noted of the delicately futuristic collection she called “set on empty.” One major statement was the ring with four yellow diamonds and one white in various shapes and sizes. “It’s big, but it’s camouflage big,” the designer offered. Also big and less camouflage-able were two Bauhaus-inspired cuffs in pink gold “tulle” and diamonds.

RezaReza: Olivier Reza doesn’t “do” themes. Fair enough: He has more stones than anyone. For the first time in fifteen years, Reza will show at the Biennale with a mix of about forty new pieces as well as some archival favorites, such as a pair of significant seventies-era drop earrings with two sapphires that together weigh 100 carats (that’s not counting the diamonds, plus they’re not for sale). Among the new wares are the Tremblant ruby and diamond earrings, and contemporary takes on the “toi et moi” with two stones set at close remove.

WilfredoWilfredo Rosado:As an assistant to Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat back in the eighties, Wilfredo Rosado discovered a passion for art that has followed him everywhere since. For this softer, lighter-colored collection, the designer looked to the work of Cy Twombly, notably his Alhambra period, for gems layered in the spirit of Moroccan mosaics. Two other groups, Bakkheia and Rapture, render the artist’s zigzags and scribbles in great swoops of white and colored diamonds.

VenyxVenyx: Natural phenomena, stars, and green lights fascinate Eugenie Niarchos. With her second collection, Theiya—a name that nods to the Greek goddess of sight, light, and shiny things in general—the designer offered another take on nature’s beauty in lightning bolt bracelets, Venyx stars (one branch is longer than the others), and a constellation of diamonds on an ear cuff called Lady Australis. Twin dusk and dawn pendants called Theiya Lumia were set with diamonds and moonstone or labradorite and a tiny piece of the Gibeon meteorite in back.

Photo: Courtesy Photos 

At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come

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This year, the January high jewelry presentations were but a prelude to the July Haute Couture season, which itself will be just a preview of what’s to come at the year’s biggest jewelry event: Paris’ twenty-seventh Biennale des Antiquaires in September. But even though most houses just offered a shimmering taste, indie brands and established houses alike gave us lots to lust for. Here, a roundup of the season’s most compelling gems.

Aurelie BiedermanAurélie Bidermann: Aurélie Bidermann’s quintessentially boho-chic personal style reflects the various places she’s lived since childhood—Paris, London, New York, and especially South America, with a nod to India for good measure. This multicolored sapphire and gold cuff with a tsavorite scarab detail headlines her debut foray into precious pieces. The designer’s much-anticipated collection spans colorful critter-shaped charms, a heavy elephant pendant, woven gold bracelets with diamond-lined edges, bangles that jingle, and medieval-inspired rings. We’re looking forward to seeing what fine-jewelry jungle the designer comes up with next.

BoucheronBoucheron: Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Boucheron first launched its covetable Quatre rings. Now, offspring include an all-diamond variation and cuff bracelets. The Radiant iteration comes in gold with a row of diamonds, and sober, all-gold Monochromes were on offer for those with subtler tastes. Other options include summery renditions with white ceramic “clous” (so named after the calibrated square cobblestones of the Place Vendôme). Mix-and-match stackables and solitaires round out the story.

BulgariBulgari:In the months since Carla Bruni-Sarkozy debuted the original “summer” Diva necklace—she sported 108 carats of fancy-cut emeralds—Bulgari has been crafting a one-of-a-kind Diva for every season. The autumnal variation comes in 116 carats of moghul-cut rubellites, plus diamonds, amethysts, and mandarin garnets, while the winter version’s leaves are frosted over entirely with more than 40 carats of diamonds. Spring is still in the workshop, but it is set to be green, with mint tourmalines and peridots offset by amethysts and diamonds. Meanwhile, graphic, seventies-inflected pieces in diamonds and onyx join the Intarsio line.

ChanelChanel: Gabrielle Chanel loved pearls—real, faux, by day, by night, for sport, you name it. But there is nothing faux, or workout-appropriate, in the brand’s latest high jewelry collection. About three-quarters of the eighty-seven pieces in Perles de Chanel—the first collection in eight years to focus on the house staple—was on display in the Chanel salon this week. And the decadent wares hit all the high notes in the Chanel lexicon: ribbons, lions, camellias, and Coromandel swallows, with pearls ranging from seed-size to gumball (mostly the latter). The colorful one-off necklace strung with five sizable Australian baroque pearls and seven varieties of precious and semiprecious stones is just one of many showstoppers.

DauphinDauphin: Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, who chose her maiden name to headline her maison, makes her first foray into high jewelry this season, and her debut collection is nothing if not impressive. With a little help from friends like Paolo Roversi and Saskia de Brauw, the designer showcased a short line of “strong but light” pieces inspired by architecture—her gold and diamond rings and earrings could be the blueprints of the Eiffel Tower. Another cuff and matching necklace are an exercise in bone structure. Continue Reading “At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come” »

Wilfredo Rosado Fall 2013

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Label: Wilfredo Rosado

Need to Know: After years of working with Giorgio Armani, Wilfredo Rosado realized his dream was to launch his own fine jewelry collection. And in 2011, he did just that. Top international retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Lane Crawford quickly snatched up his unique pieces. His cameos were an instant success, Gwyneth Paltrow wore his pink feather and diamond earrings to the 2011 Grammys, and ever since debuting his first collection, editors and buyers alike have championed his extravagant, eccentric take on diamonds.

When asked about his Fall ’13 collection, Rosado told Style.com that he has always been a fan of the Smoke series of burned furniture by the Dutch designer Maarten Baas. He’s fascinated by the idea of creating high-luxury pieces and treating them as common, non-precious objects. You can’t get much more precious than 18-karat gold set with sapphires, diamonds, and emeralds. But for Fall, Rosado inlaid his decadent wares with burned wood. He tells us they’re meant to be worn as everyday accessories.

He Says: “Should I call this collection ‘HOT’? I just want women—or men, for that matter—to look and feel cool wearing it, without feeling like they’re wearing the family jewels!”

Where to Find It: Bergdorf Goodman, Just One Eye, Neiman Marcus

American Jewelers in Paris

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In addition to the major jewelers who showed at Paris’ Place Vendôme during Couture week, two presentations by burgeoning American talents caught our eye. The first was Eddie Borgo, who showed his pre-fall ’13 collection in an apartment-turned-showroom on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This season, the New York-based designer (who, after only five years on the scene, has already garnered a healthy international following) made a bold move into color. He presented chunky gold, rose-gold, and silver pieces studded with malachite, Botswana agate, and delicate blue lace agate, respectively. Borgo also debuted silver and malachite clip-on collar tips and star clips set with glass pearls for shoes. Where to keep all of these urban baubles, you ask? After showing a single jewelry box last season, Borgo has expanded into an entire range of them. Inspired by memories of his grandmother’s long-lost vanity case, the designer’s new boxes are made of embossed Italian leather with Eddie Borgo hardware and practical hinged compartments that swing outward.


Over at the Plaza Athénée, self-taught designer Wilfredo Rosado explained that his design philosophy in general—and the one behind this particular collection of nine one-off pieces—is that “there are no rules.” Formerly the fashion director at Giorgio Armani, Rosado (who, it should be noted, was the man behind those diamond and pink Lemarié feather earrings Gwyneth Paltrow wore to the Grammys in 2011) is a fashion-world veteran. This time around, he showcased “Art Deco in New York”-inspired pieces such as a tension-set cuff with diamonds and emeralds, as well as an elaborate necklace set with removable diamonds that can be worn with or without a scattering of colorful laser-cut leather flowers. Also on display were revisited blackamoor busts, sassy “lip-licking” cameos, and diamonds on a mesh lace of handwoven gold. “What can I say? This is not jewelry for wallflowers,” he joked.

Photos: Courtesy Photos

Designer Diary: Designer Wilfredo Rosado’s Postcard from Morocco, Capri, and Monte Carlo

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Before launching his namesake fine-jewelry line, designer Wilfredo Rosado worked as fashion director at Armani. It was during his time there that he struck up a friendship with Mariah Carey while he helped dress her for events (circa 1990, the same year her debut album, Mariah Carey, was released). They remain friends, and recently Carey invited Rosado and a few other pals to join her on a get-away to Morocco, Capri, and Monte Carlo. Here, Rosado shares his trip exclusively with Style.com.

“Our first stop: Morocco!”

“One of the attendants at the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. He has a very sixties feel with his fez and pale pink jacket. “

“Morocco is a world of inspiration, from color, to taste, to smell. I spotted this woman walking down an alley and loved the unintentional composition of color.”

“The view of Capri from Anacapri.”

“Coolest taxi in Capri! It’s a 1960′s Fiat convertible.”

“My travel buddies, [from left to right] Louise McNally, Kristofer Buckle, me, Mariah Carey, Rachel McIntosh, Erica Jackson, and Randy Jackson.”
Continue Reading “Designer Diary: Designer Wilfredo Rosado’s Postcard from Morocco, Capri, and Monte Carlo” »