5 posts tagged "Wilfredo Rosado"
This year, the January high jewelry presentations were but a prelude to the July Haute Couture season, which itself will be just a preview of what’s to come at the year’s biggest jewelry event: Paris’ twenty-seventh Biennale des Antiquaires in September. But even though most houses just offered a shimmering taste, indie brands and established houses alike gave us lots to lust for. Here, a roundup of the season’s most compelling gems.
Aurélie Bidermann: Aurélie Bidermann’s quintessentially boho-chic personal style reflects the various places she’s lived since childhood—Paris, London, New York, and especially South America, with a nod to India for good measure. This multicolored sapphire and gold cuff with a tsavorite scarab detail headlines her debut foray into precious pieces. The designer’s much-anticipated collection spans colorful critter-shaped charms, a heavy elephant pendant, woven gold bracelets with diamond-lined edges, bangles that jingle, and medieval-inspired rings. We’re looking forward to seeing what fine-jewelry jungle the designer comes up with next.
Boucheron: Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Boucheron first launched its covetable Quatre rings. Now, offspring include an all-diamond variation and cuff bracelets. The Radiant iteration comes in gold with a row of diamonds, and sober, all-gold Monochromes were on offer for those with subtler tastes. Other options include summery renditions with white ceramic “clous” (so named after the calibrated square cobblestones of the Place Vendôme). Mix-and-match stackables and solitaires round out the story.
Bulgari:In the months since Carla Bruni-Sarkozy debuted the original “summer” Diva necklace—she sported 108 carats of fancy-cut emeralds—Bulgari has been crafting a one-of-a-kind Diva for every season. The autumnal variation comes in 116 carats of moghul-cut rubellites, plus diamonds, amethysts, and mandarin garnets, while the winter version’s leaves are frosted over entirely with more than 40 carats of diamonds. Spring is still in the workshop, but it is set to be green, with mint tourmalines and peridots offset by amethysts and diamonds. Meanwhile, graphic, seventies-inflected pieces in diamonds and onyx join the Intarsio line.
Chanel: Gabrielle Chanel loved pearls—real, faux, by day, by night, for sport, you name it. But there is nothing faux, or workout-appropriate, in the brand’s latest high jewelry collection. About three-quarters of the eighty-seven pieces in Perles de Chanel—the first collection in eight years to focus on the house staple—was on display in the Chanel salon this week. And the decadent wares hit all the high notes in the Chanel lexicon: ribbons, lions, camellias, and Coromandel swallows, with pearls ranging from seed-size to gumball (mostly the latter). The colorful one-off necklace strung with five sizable Australian baroque pearls and seven varieties of precious and semiprecious stones is just one of many showstoppers.
Dauphin: Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, who chose her maiden name to headline her maison, makes her first foray into high jewelry this season, and her debut collection is nothing if not impressive. With a little help from friends like Paolo Roversi and Saskia de Brauw, the designer showcased a short line of “strong but light” pieces inspired by architecture—her gold and diamond rings and earrings could be the blueprints of the Eiffel Tower. Another cuff and matching necklace are an exercise in bone structure. Continue Reading “At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come” »
Label: Wilfredo Rosado
Need to Know: After years of working with Giorgio Armani, Wilfredo Rosado realized his dream was to launch his own fine jewelry collection. And in 2011, he did just that. Top international retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Lane Crawford quickly snatched up his unique pieces. His cameos were an instant success, Gwyneth Paltrow wore his pink feather and diamond earrings to the 2011 Grammys, and ever since debuting his first collection, editors and buyers alike have championed his extravagant, eccentric take on diamonds.
When asked about his Fall ’13 collection, Rosado told Style.com that he has always been a fan of the Smoke series of burned furniture by the Dutch designer Maarten Baas. He’s fascinated by the idea of creating high-luxury pieces and treating them as common, non-precious objects. You can’t get much more precious than 18-karat gold set with sapphires, diamonds, and emeralds. But for Fall, Rosado inlaid his decadent wares with burned wood. He tells us they’re meant to be worn as everyday accessories.
He Says: “Should I call this collection ‘HOT’? I just want women—or men, for that matter—to look and feel cool wearing it, without feeling like they’re wearing the family jewels!”
Where to Find It: Bergdorf Goodman, Just One Eye, Neiman Marcus
In addition to the major jewelers who showed at Paris’ Place Vendôme during Couture week, two presentations by burgeoning American talents caught our eye. The first was Eddie Borgo, who showed his pre-fall ’13 collection in an apartment-turned-showroom on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This season, the New York-based designer (who, after only five years on the scene, has already garnered a healthy international following) made a bold move into color. He presented chunky gold, rose-gold, and silver pieces studded with malachite, Botswana agate, and delicate blue lace agate, respectively. Borgo also debuted silver and malachite clip-on collar tips and star clips set with glass pearls for shoes. Where to keep all of these urban baubles, you ask? After showing a single jewelry box last season, Borgo has expanded into an entire range of them. Inspired by memories of his grandmother’s long-lost vanity case, the designer’s new boxes are made of embossed Italian leather with Eddie Borgo hardware and practical hinged compartments that swing outward.
Over at the Plaza Athénée, self-taught designer Wilfredo Rosado explained that his design philosophy in general—and the one behind this particular collection of nine one-off pieces—is that “there are no rules.” Formerly the fashion director at Giorgio Armani, Rosado (who, it should be noted, was the man behind those diamond and pink Lemarié feather earrings Gwyneth Paltrow wore to the Grammys in 2011) is a fashion-world veteran. This time around, he showcased “Art Deco in New York”-inspired pieces such as a tension-set cuff with diamonds and emeralds, as well as an elaborate necklace set with removable diamonds that can be worn with or without a scattering of colorful laser-cut leather flowers. Also on display were revisited blackamoor busts, sassy “lip-licking” cameos, and diamonds on a mesh lace of handwoven gold. “What can I say? This is not jewelry for wallflowers,” he joked.
Narrowing down more than 5,000 bags, shoes, and jewels—no easy feat. But then, it is our job. In the midst of compiling our Fall 2011 Accessories Index, we’ve all come across a few favorites we’re saving up for come September. Below, Style.com’s editors on the pieces they can’t wait to get their hands on.
“I’ve been on the lookout for a pair of light brown boots for a while. Phillip Lim’s will look great with all of my denim flares, and they have the added attraction of a friendly price point too.” —Nicole Phelps, executive editor
“Wilfredo Rosado is my favorite new designer to watch. After years working with Mr. Armani, he’s launching a fine jewelry collection this fall; if you noticed Gwyneth Paltrow’s pink feather earrings at the Grammys this year, you’ve already seen his unique pieces in action. This pendant in one of my favorites—you have to look at it twice to notice that it’s not just your old classic cameo.” —Marina Larroude, senior market editor
“The shape of this Chloé bag reminds me of Coach’s old bucket bags—which I still stalk on eBay to this day. The patchwork of exotic skins also seems like it would go with every piece of outerwear I own, including my leopard swing coat—no small feat.” —Celia Ellenberg, senior beauty editor
“Let’s just say I am seriously considering a weekend job so I can kick it in these forest green/fuchsia Kirkwood pumps come Fall.” —Brittany Adams, associate fashion editor